A proper ramble to Benbrack

Hill: Benbrack
Category: Other walk
Height: 581m
Today was a bit different from the normal group walk in that we had the company of Ben Dolphin, President of the Ramblers organisation in Scotland. A really nice guy who added value to the outing and hopefully we returned that with our feedback and company. 

Ben & Jeanette

On Thursday I had climbed one of the other Striding Arches at Colt Hill and here I was completing another within a few days. Like Colt Hill I had a previous failed attempt at this hill so second time lucky. The previous outing was another group walk, this time with the Ayr & District group. Heavy snowfall was our downfall that day significantly slowing progress, turning us back before Benbrack.
Today was a totally different experience, you could not have picked a better day to walk in November. Although the temperature dropped to  minus 2 on the drive down there was a crisp but not cold feeling at the start.

The start onto the moor

Our route to Benbrack followed the Southern Upland Way but for these hardy long distance walkers their day is a lot longer than ours. Our interim bit is part of the longest section of the SUW which goes from St Johns Town of Dalry to Sanquar, a long haul at 41.5km.
Still our walk starts at the old byre and goes past the working farm. There are signs warning of dogs, working collies I presumed, but on the way back I saw the owner walking a beast of a Rottweiller type dog, huge and one to stay clear of. Probably a gentle giant but not for me to find out.
No navigation required as we followed a clear path, muddy and boggy at times. 

Plenty of SUW markers around

Keep looking up and see the yellow topped SUW marker posts for reassurance and head for them.
Up and down grassy trails we wander. Criss cross some of the estate and forestry roads  but basically keep on a straight course.

Manquhill Hill

Finally from Manquhill Hill the Arch on Benbrack could be seen in the distance, looked a lot further away than the reality.

Benbrack ahead

The views were stunning Moorbrock, Carsphairn, Blacklorg and lots of others seen from non traditional perspectives. Can’t describe this properly, it was what getting outdoors is all about without slogging up huge Munros etc.

Moorbrock & Carsphairn Hills

Now we had only one hill left, a steep ascent but a gentle walking gradient and in these warm November conditions gear was being shed as we climbed. The expected humour didn’t disappoint.

Messy top from this approach

Then the Arch was reached and we had views of the other two on Colt and Bail hills. 
Again super long distance views the radar golf ball on top of the Lowthers shimmering in the light. Even brighter was the very white snow covered top of White Coomb, I will be doing that soon, on my winter list. Looking south the low pressure had created grey clouds and limited visibility but looking north the high pressure blue sky, a cracker. We were right in the middle.

Arty shot!! Colt Hill arch in distance

We followed the same route back as there were forestry diversions around and better on the feet to tramp soft muddy paths than hard stone packed forest roads.
A top day out in excellent company but particular mention to our walk leader today, Jeanette. An excellent job in preparation, what home baking. Cannot lose her the bright colour scheme outstanding. As a person true to herself, and with the pressure of Ben Dolphins presence, well done to her, I enjoyed this one.

Wildlife: Buzzard; Crow; meadow Pipit; Blue Tit.
Time: 5.22
Ascent: 1616ft (596m)
Distance: 9.11m (14.7km)

Striding out to visit an Arch

Hill: Colt Hill, Dumfries & Galloway
Category: Sub2k
Height: 598m
Last night over a beer or two I put together my winter list of my local hills and walks. It is a bit of a nerdy thing but it helps my motivation, each to their own I suppose.
So fully motivated I decided that tomorrow I would set out to do one from the list. The one chosen, Colt Hill, was also on last years list and I did set out to complete it. Last year, or maybe early this year, it was a crisp blue morning, scraped the car and the temperature gauge showed freezing when I left. Still took it easy, a slow and safe drive, roads fine until I cut off at Carsphairn on to the Moniaive road. Initially it was ok but it then it was a skating rink and I passed two vehicles already off the road, occupants not around so hopefully ok. Clear glass so they had not been here overnight. A slow 10 mile drive to the village.
From Moniaive it is then a 5-6 mile drive along a worsening B road which becomes a D road then just a thin strip with big holes. Totally iced up in places, steep drops, almost no places to pass I was stressed by the time I got to the parking area. As I arrived the snow started and before I could get the boots on I was covered in white stuff. On my own, concerned about the return on that track so walk aborted.
Guess what I woke up to today, crisp blue skies and the car frost covered.
Lay in bed, read the online paper then gave myself a good talking to, ‘man up’ to quote Boris, so I did.

The start aiming for the green one in the middle

An uneventful drive to Moniaive and then once again along the bumpy unsurfaced track praying nothing coming the other way, not much ice, just coos blocking it but they moved!!
Quote from Walkhighlands ‘The Striding Arches are a series of three massive stone sandstone arches built on the hilltops around Cairnhead, near Moniaive. Built by renowned sculptor Andy Goldsworthy, the arches are complemented by another springing from an old byre at the foot of the valley’. As well as ticking off the Sub2K I wanted to see one of these up close.
Before beginning the walk proper, double back from the parking area and information board to take the parallel track heading uphill, to visit the Byre. 
Walkhighlands quote ‘The track leads past a derelict cottage to enter a walled green lawn - with poems carved into the stones. 
I parked at Benbuie, taking care not to block the house access. Just as well the owner was there on my return and clearly not happy to see my car parked.
There is a gate beside this which can be accessed by a car to the information board, but as said I just started here.

A wooden bridge saves fording the burn

There is not a lot to say about the walk. Head up to the information board, spend some time reading all the sides it is worth it. Either visit the ruined byre now or leave it until the way back.
You can use this route for both Colt Hill & Benbrack, your choice but combining both better left for longer daylight days and if you are going to do all three you better have Superman fitness or be just plain mad.
Just continue on this track which after the small wooden bridge becomes a forestry road and yes their vehicles were coming up and down, not many, it is operational.

Fire break could join up with Benbrack trail

Nice small waterfall at the firebreak at a small burn that eventually joins  the Fingland Burn, for once I wasn’t having to negotiate this rough ground.

Finally a sign, looks old

Having ignored any possible turn off the track eventually brings you to a vehicle turning point and a signpost. I had wondered at the lack of signage but I suppose you cannot go wrong.

Head up the fence

There is an optional track to the right and one straight on but take the obvious track towards the fencing then simply follow this up to the top. Suddenly the Colt Hill Arch appears a short way ahead.

Colt Hill arch and trig

It was blinking cold with a biting wind which surprisingly had been evident down to the lower reaches.
Super views on a day like this, the other two Arches are clearly seen.
Technical stuff now: the highest Arch is on Benbrack, which I might be going to on Sunday. ‘It stands just under four metres high, and stretches across 7 metres. It is built from 31 blocks of hand-dressed red sandstone weighing approximately 27 tons’, impressive indeed. 

Benbrack Arch

Looking at the snap later I spot two figures at that arch. Now I think about there was a car parked at the normal starting point for Benbrack.

Carsphairn hills from Colt Hill

Looking east the ball on Lowther Hill stands out along with the Durisdeer Hills and further on the Moffat hills. Across the way Cairnsmore of Carsphairn snow clad on this side. Earlier this year I climbed Moorbrock and nice to see it from this angle. Beautiful clear views, just ignore the turbines.
If you are feeling good descend back to the turning point and follow the obvious track to the Benbrack arch adding some 7k but check out your descent route with all this deforestation, might help but likely not.

Bail Hill Arch the remote one

The third arch is on Bail Hill which can also be seen from here. Research suggests that you will not visit it as it is difficult walking, no paths, difficult ground so only for keen/mad walkers.

Still nice colours around

For me it was just a case of retracing my steps and heading to Thornhill for a coffee. 

Wildlife: Buzzard; Bullfinch; Chaffinch; Blue Tit; Blackbird: Robin; Crow; Magpie.
Time: 2.23
Ascent: 400m
Distance: 11.3km 

A beautiful winter walk on Manquill Hill

At last a winter walk in beautiful crisp snowy conditions, particularly welcome after the poor December so far. A group outing with the ADRC today and a high turnout. The walk objective was to head up Manquill Hill and then proceed onto the higher Benbrack, the location of one of the Striding Arches, but the walk ended up just being the first hill.

The drive was fine for a while but once we cleared Dalmellington the gritters appeared to have gone on strike, no evidence of grip at all, so a slow careful journey to Carsphairn. After that the side road to the walk start was another 6 miles of sheet ice on a minor road, great care indeed, were we mad, would we meet another car coming opposite? Thankfully no incidents but just getting out of the car was a challenge, it was an ice rink.

Walk finally underway and the route initially followed the Southern Upland Way path. An electric fence to get over first. Normally the Way track would be clear but with the snowfall it was more a case of spotting a marker post and heading for it.

A nice start to the morning but already the clouds were darkening, more snow? A couple of roe deer bounded off to the trees, stunning deep brown coats, white rumps clear even in these white conditions. Only wildlife seen today.
Actually feeling quite warm, enough to remove my mid layer, hat and gloves. At tea break I realised my GPS watch had not started, no doubt my fault, so a belated recorded trip info.

We soon reached a crossroads with different options for the hill but we opted for the direct route up to Manquill Hill. The snow was much deeper here and the lead walkers were doing a good job trailblazing the hard work, breaking the new snow for the rest of the group.

There were good views looking to our left of Cairnsmore of Carsphairn, great light, mist covering the middle, good chance it was an inversion up top.
However, the one drawback so far was the pace of the walk. We were averaging about half the pace I would have expected. With hindsight some of the party probably should not have been on the walk, in normal circumstances maybe but in these conditions maybe not, but once started we have to go at the pace of the slowest.

A brief respite on the top of Manquill hill followed with a short downhill walk with views up Benbrack, albeit the top was covered in cloud. As it turned out by the time we got to the bottom of Benbrack the leader was concerned at the pace and that time was against us as the hardest climb still to be done. The main issue was not the walk out as the white conditions would have made the light ok, but the issue of driving the 6 miles of minor road, in ice rink conditions, in the dark.

Sadly we agreed to abort, wise decision, the hill will still be there for another day.
On the way back we pass the Manquill bothy. Apparently this derelict bothy was renovated with govt money (our money), for the benefit of Southern Upland Way walkers, looked after by the mountain bothy association, but then a couple of years later it was taken back by the landowners and closed to the public. No wonder some landowners are derided.

On a happier note the light conditions today were fantastic, at times it was like being in a solely black and white landscape. Then a glimpse of blue sky gave some colour, an odd lower hill had the oranges and browns to give yet more colour, photos from ordinary cameras cannot do this justice.

Overall it was an enjoyable walk but no doubt we would have finished in the dark had we continued.
A check with another walkers GPS gave this data:
Time:4.23 hr
Distance: 6.7 miles
Ascent: 400m approx.