Anything but a grey day on the Grey Corries

The Grey Corries ridge

Hill: Stob Choire Claurigh (1177m) & Stob Coire an Laoigh (1116m)
Category: Munros

Day 3 and another outstanding day on the hills. Today we walked what many consider to be the ‘Best Ridge Walk in the Central Highlands’. Who am I to argue, it was a superb high level walk with views to die for.

Wee Minister

We parked up at the normal place at Coirechollie after the pot holed rough track that passes the farm. Glad we did as the out walk was long enough.

A short walk up a good track, through the woodland reaching the Wee Minister.

(About Lochaber: You are soon welcomed by the outstretched hand of The Wee Minister, who is accompanied by a plaque and a donation box. According to the plaque, the wooden replica replaces stone a statue dating from the 1900s, and is that of the Reverend John McIntosh. However, local opinion is that the statue more likely to be that Dr. Thomas Chalmers who was the first Moderator of the local Free Church of Scotland. The statue was a gift and originally erected in 1886 in the manse garden of the Moderator John McIntosh in Achintore Road, Fort William.

The statue was removed by the wife of John McIntosh when he was away during the First World War and relocated to the church grounds above Monzie Square in Fort William. It remained there until 1968 from whence it was removed to Glen Spean, where it quickly became a local attraction. The statue and was thought to bring good luck to climbers and walkers alike on their route to the Grey Corries. Unfortunately, the stone statue began to disintegrate and was eventually removed in the 1970s. The statue was resurrected in May 2010 by the Glen Spean and Great Glen Tourism Marketing Group as a wooden replica with a donation box for the Lochaber Mountain Rescue).

Before reaching a gate then a sharp right hander and the climb begins. Although we are heading for the 15th highest Munro this very long grassy ascent is pretty good going. Still lots of heavy breathing and sweat but good. Damp ground nearly stood on a frog. A Jay leaves the trees but minimal wildlife observed today.

Go right then flank left and up and up...

Strike for the skyline was our war cry but there were lots of false promises today, skyline after skyline. Until one looked like a stone top, the ridge proper, hopefully Stob Coire Gaibhre.

Plateau reached ridge in full view

Indeed it was, great views of our journey ahead but still a long way until even Munro one.

The going was now intermittent patches of grass but mostly boulder terrain, not the easiest walking but the panorama outstanding. Concentration required again to avoid twisted ankles or worse.

Watch your step

Deep gulley’s alongside as we made our way onwards and upwards. We even had our lunch before climbing the first top (Claurigh), lunch ended quickly by a flurry of snow.

Stob Coire Claurigh ahead

A short scramble, yes hands on, to the top and the whole ridge opened up to us. What a sight. 

The ridge, The Aonach's and Ben Nevis

Eyes drawn immediately to the route ahead but a good look around has many peaks in view from distant Schiehallion and the Lawers range to closer by the Mamores and Glencoe as well as Ben Nevis and the Aonach ridge, spectacular.

The two figures give scale to the snap

The ridge is a brilliant walk on a day like this, plenty of tops, never dropping under 1000m, take our time enjoy the day and the views.

Castail crags 

Castail was impressive, the crags look like an ice climbers winter practice area, before climbing our last Munro (Laoigh). 

The ridge back from Stob Coire an Laoigh

A rocky descent then ascent takes us back up to the 1000m mark on Beinn na Socaich, our last top today.

The way down, a long way down

We then started the long descent along the grassy ridge before dropping unto more rough tussocky terrain before we hit a deer fence. Here the fun began. The Walkhighlands route does not mention this fence. There was a gate, beyond which, was a deforested zone, the woodland mentioned had gone!!

We eventually followed the fence down to the dam but water to deep to cross. Went further back upstream where we were able to stone hop and wade across. If this was in spate? (Having reread Storers description this water crossing is included as the route).

Derelict Puggy Line

This side joined up with the mapped route but it was a long walk back to the car. Amused by stumbling across this abandoned rail track, the Puggy line. 
(Patrick Howat: ""The term Puggy Line is used in the Fort William area, although it strictly belonged to the Pier Railway, for it was only on that line that 'pugs' - a Scottish colloquial name for small steam locomotives - were used in the days of the british Aluminium Co Ltd to transport workers and goods re the aliminium smelter. The fact that a narrow guage railway system totalling about 26 miles existed in a highly scenic area of the west of Scotland comes as a great surprise to many. Many sections of the railway track have now been removed).

A fantastic walk across a superb ridge on a great day with great company, its up there with as good as it gets.

Wildlife: Jay, Skylark, Frog
Time: 8.10
Ascent: 1405m
Distance: 19.7km

Breezy Culter Fell from Glenkirk

Hill: Culter Fell, Gathersnow Hill,
Category: Graham, Donald, 
Height: N/a
A cracking walk despite the high winds and occasional showers. A longish drive took us into the fringe of the borders with its beautiful rolling hills.

The start at Glenkirk farm

After Broughton it was a long drive down a single track to the walk start beside a remote but well maintained farm at Glenkirk.
Immediately we were heading up a steep slope of Congrie Hill. This got us all blowing immediately. 

Culter Fell ridge ahead

Thankfully the gradient eased slightly before climbing onto the ridge of Culter Fell. 

Follow the fence to summit

Another steep ascent following the faint track to the left of the fence and we were at the summit of Culter Fell our highest point at 748m. 

Culter trig looking to Hillshaw Head

The wind kept trying to knock us off our feet but we took in the views from the trig which were still excellent despite the grey skies.

Moss Law then Gathersnow Hill ahead

The descent headed towards the valley via Moss Law where we could get some shelter for lunch. Suitably refreshed it was time to tackle Gathersnow Hill, an appropriate name in winter I am sure. 

Culter reservoir

We had dropped around 250m so had a similar ascent to the flat plateau at the top marked only by a single iron rod, no doubt a boundary marker at some point but this was the top at 688m.

Coomb cairn

Off for another ascent and descent to Coomb Hill at 640m, our final climb of the day.

Descent with Culter Fell behind

The wind was still fierce so we changed our planned route and made a steep descent down into the valley at the old sheep pens.
Finally a pleasant low level walk along the valley, a burn at times accompanying us, hemmed in by the hills on either side. 

Brief sunburst adds colour

The bracken mainly orange now and almost wind free back through the many sheep to the cars. 
We covered the ascent of many a Munro today, these hills should not be under estimated, rolling they might be but there is plenty of height to gain but also superb views.
Wildlife: Red Grouse
Time: 5.09
Ascent: 2412ft
Distance: 13.7km

A beautiful winter walk on Manquill Hill

At last a winter walk in beautiful crisp snowy conditions, particularly welcome after the poor December so far. A group outing with the ADRC today and a high turnout. The walk objective was to head up Manquill Hill and then proceed onto the higher Benbrack, the location of one of the Striding Arches, but the walk ended up just being the first hill.

The drive was fine for a while but once we cleared Dalmellington the gritters appeared to have gone on strike, no evidence of grip at all, so a slow careful journey to Carsphairn. After that the side road to the walk start was another 6 miles of sheet ice on a minor road, great care indeed, were we mad, would we meet another car coming opposite? Thankfully no incidents but just getting out of the car was a challenge, it was an ice rink.

Walk finally underway and the route initially followed the Southern Upland Way path. An electric fence to get over first. Normally the Way track would be clear but with the snowfall it was more a case of spotting a marker post and heading for it.

A nice start to the morning but already the clouds were darkening, more snow? A couple of roe deer bounded off to the trees, stunning deep brown coats, white rumps clear even in these white conditions. Only wildlife seen today.
Actually feeling quite warm, enough to remove my mid layer, hat and gloves. At tea break I realised my GPS watch had not started, no doubt my fault, so a belated recorded trip info.

We soon reached a crossroads with different options for the hill but we opted for the direct route up to Manquill Hill. The snow was much deeper here and the lead walkers were doing a good job trailblazing the hard work, breaking the new snow for the rest of the group.

There were good views looking to our left of Cairnsmore of Carsphairn, great light, mist covering the middle, good chance it was an inversion up top.
However, the one drawback so far was the pace of the walk. We were averaging about half the pace I would have expected. With hindsight some of the party probably should not have been on the walk, in normal circumstances maybe but in these conditions maybe not, but once started we have to go at the pace of the slowest.

A brief respite on the top of Manquill hill followed with a short downhill walk with views up Benbrack, albeit the top was covered in cloud. As it turned out by the time we got to the bottom of Benbrack the leader was concerned at the pace and that time was against us as the hardest climb still to be done. The main issue was not the walk out as the white conditions would have made the light ok, but the issue of driving the 6 miles of minor road, in ice rink conditions, in the dark.

Sadly we agreed to abort, wise decision, the hill will still be there for another day.
On the way back we pass the Manquill bothy. Apparently this derelict bothy was renovated with govt money (our money), for the benefit of Southern Upland Way walkers, looked after by the mountain bothy association, but then a couple of years later it was taken back by the landowners and closed to the public. No wonder some landowners are derided.

On a happier note the light conditions today were fantastic, at times it was like being in a solely black and white landscape. Then a glimpse of blue sky gave some colour, an odd lower hill had the oranges and browns to give yet more colour, photos from ordinary cameras cannot do this justice.

Overall it was an enjoyable walk but no doubt we would have finished in the dark had we continued.
A check with another walkers GPS gave this data:
Time:4.23 hr
Distance: 6.7 miles
Ascent: 400m approx.

Wild day on the north Rhinns

Gloomy start

Today’s walk was with the good folk from ADRC where we were climbing the North Rhinns of Kells, our route taking in Coran of Portmark, Bow & Meaul. I completed this walk a few months ago and would not normally return to a hill so quickly but I was attracted by the prospect of the forecasted blue sky, snow covered outing, a different perspective from the last time. How wrong was that forecast but yes indeed it was a very different perspective.
My first warning flag was when I went out to pack the car and the weather was very mild, cloudy and light rain, not the expected scraping the ice off of my car. Yesterday at the golf I could not get a tee into the ground it was so hard, how different.
When we arrived at Carsphairn and started the walk the hills were clad in a low grey shroud, optimism in our car as we shouted 'it will burn off'. An odd blue sky spot suggested, maybe? There were other cars in the parking area but they were heading up Cairnsmore.

Lead mine chimney stack in view

There is a longish walk towards the abandoned lead mines, as we passed the farm there was a blind ewe running in circles. It heard but could not see us, a bit sad. Now the drizzle had strengthened to medium downpour so waterproof trousers donned.

Ruins with low clad hills

Snack time and a short break at the lead mine ruins, these were the last shelter on the walk and afterwards we proceeded up the quad bike track towards Coran of Portmark. The wind had strengthened along with the rain and this continued all the way up.

Snow patch

Although there were some snow and ice patches but the majority had melted. This was simply head down and plod on. Endurance more than pleasure so far.
After a couple of hours from the start we reached the cairn at Coran of Portmark and it was conference time. 

Coran cairn

The group agreed to continue the walk to Bow and then reassess. The next section is a straightforward ridge walk with a fence to guide us in the gloom but we were still in the grey mass of low cloud, Loch Doon is down there somewhere.
At Bow another conference. The original plan was to walk to Meaul and return more or less the same way we climbed. Majority vote was to just return, reasons included: the miserable weather; no prospect of it changing; no views; it was not a new hill for most and no shelter for lunch.

Descending for lunch

So off we went back down to the lead mines, a few slips on the sodden grass and then had a belated lunch. Luckily some decent views as we descended but looking back the hills remained in cloud.

Looking back clouds still cover the hills

Overall it could be viewed as a bit disappointing but there were enough positives, I had some decent exercise and a good chat with various people. Not at all a wasted day.

Time: 4.36
Ascent: 1678ft (512m)
Distance: 8.63m (13.89)