My last two Galloway Donalds, thank god the Dungeon Range no more.....Craignaw & Dungeon Hill

Hill: Craignaw (Craggy hill of the rock) (645m) & Dungeon Hill (Hill above the dungeon lochs) (620m)

Type: Graham & Donald

My priority this year is to achieve a Donald hill category completion. I had been avoiding this pair for some time but numbers were reducing and they had to be done. Gordon messaged me recently about doing them before the bracken and midgies overtook us, a wise suggestion. So I agreed as I did not want to leave them to be the last hills. My final comments will endorse why!!  You only need to read a few walk reports to get the picture. This is often pathless and rough going and even when it is a path it is often in poor condition. As per my blog reports I am fully familiar with notorious tough Galloway terrain so I was mentally prepared but even so it was tough walking!  

The green colour at the start is pleasant but did not last for long

All cars arrived promptly so we made early start with optimism as the good weather was forecast until mid afternoon. We set off from the Bruces Stone car park. A small group of mainly focused Donald baggers. Shortly a cuckoo was heard calling, plenty of them have arrived now, Spring is here.

Ascending the Gairland burn green disappearing

Height is gained quickly as we ascended on a slanting angle via the Gairland burn track. A few weeks ago this was apparently bone dry but not today, back to its boggiest best and we haven't had that much rain. I have read this area described as savage scenery, constantly changing. 

As we rise the burn narrows and flows faster

No doubt that today the landscape has that rugged beauty along with with the spectacular addition of the burn, flowing noisily as it cascades down some falls. We are hemmed in with the flanks of Buchan Hill on our left and White Brae top across the burn.

Loch Valley with Craignaw slopes mid right

Time for a food break at Loch Valley where I observe the trout rising frequently. Apparently a sluice was installed some years back to improve the fishing in these upland lochs, long since destroyed and this was the only water where I saw fish rising so no idea whether it has been successful or not. I might not rush back to walk these two hills again but I will be tempted to come back for some wild fishing. 

A short wander up to the next Loch Neldricken, where we cross the burn via some large boulders, nobody fell in and then headed directly to Snibe Hill. The terrain is littered with huge boulders, erratics to give them their Sunday name. When the glacial ice melted these were left in situ wherever they dropped, certainly adds to the wild scenery.

Heading to Snibe Hill huge boulders/erratics dotted around

Nice to be dry underfoot but only because we are onto the famous Galloway tussocks with only the occasional granite slabs to provide some relief. 

Snibe Hill looking south

Snibe Hill is not a categorised summit and can be by passed but it is worth the short effort as the views are really good.

Dow Loch on right and the one section of good walking to Craignaw summit

Down to the almost dry Dow Loch with the short ascent of Craignaw ahead. Dow Loch was made from the frequent torrential rain running off the granite slabs onto a granite bowl, maybe climate change has dried the area. 

Craignaw has been described as a compact but complicated hill. I can see that in poor visibility the crags could be a lot more complicated and dangerous than today but most of the danger of these hills lie on their east flanks not touched by us. Thankfully the granite slabs come to our aid and makes short work of the ascent. Craignaw summit reached but its small cairn has disappeared, its boulders strewn around, possibly a weather victim.

From Craignaw summit, Loch Enoch left, Mulwharchar centre and Dungeon hill mid right

It has been a tough walk but that was the end of any help from granite slabs. A steep descent down a narrow grassy passage known as the Wolf Slock with the impressive granite rock slabs on our right. 

Our approach to Dungeon Hill

We contoured west avoiding having to descend fully before starting the ascent of Dungeon hill. Followed tracks and paths which disappeared as quickly as they appeared, sheep and deer not human. A bit of huffing and puffing and before long 2nd summit achieved. Time for nourishment and take in the fabulous views. To the south the hills of the Lakes and Ireland can be clearly seen, still not summer air!

The Range of the Awful Hand

Mullwharchar and the Merrick including the full Awful Hand range (Merrick, Kirriereoch, Tarfessock & Shalloch on Minnoch). 

Silver Flowe bog bottom left and our Craignaw descent route in middle of hill

Lastly views back to Craignaw and down into the peat bog, ditch network, ground of the Silver Flowe. A similar bog existed nearby on the banks of Cooran Lane but has since fully dried up.  Behind that the Rhinns of Kells ridge and down to the blue waters of Loch Doon. A tough walk rewarded with superb views.

Down below lies the butterfly shaped Loch Enoch, the size of which is remarkable as no burn feeds it. It is very deep at least 39m, formed in a rock basin in glacial times.

The descent heading for Locn Neldricken

For the descent we flanked Craignairney heading directly for Loch Neldricken. There was a path of sorts but many a time the foot would go straight down a mud hole or worse, plenty of traps to catch even the wary.

The fine sands of Loch Neldricken

Finally we reached the loch with patches of its fine sand, famed for its sharpness in knife grinding, a very pleasant spot even if some litter left behind. Sadly came across a dead large yellow duckling. There were a pair of Canada Geese on the water with at least three youngsters I wonder if this was one of theirs?

We took the eastern side where there was another faint track back to where we crossed the loch outlet earlier. Sadly missing the famous literary 'Murder Hole' on its west bank.

Descending via Gairland Burn

Now we were descending via the out track but it was still full attention required as very awkward walking, wet, slippery boulders, lots of traps. A female wild swimmer was at the side of Loch Valley but she did not acknowledge us, odd. Then we were given an air display by an RAF training aircraft swooping up and down, spectacularly, very fast and very loud, no suppressors on these engines.

Relieved to see Loch Trool

The descent had been a long slog over very similar scabby terrain. At least on the ascent there is the excitement of the adventure ahead, differing terrain, ascent & descent etc. But this bit not to be repeated.

An indicator of how poor the terrain was is the time taken, I would expect to complete a walk in 3-3.5kph but this one was only 2.63kph.

Still that's the Galloway hills finished for me in bagging terms, any visits purely for pleasure from now on. Good company helped the time go by and the weather played its part, pleasant blue skies and a high temperature considering last weeks snow.

I have earned that cold beer or two.

Ascent: 841m

Distance: 17.2km

Time: 6,54m

Wildlife: Raven; Meadow Pipit; Canada Geese; Chiffchaff; Cuckoo( heard)

A fine ridge walk to complete my Moffat Donalds.....Herman Law, Bell Craig, Andrewhinney Hill, Bodesbeck Law

Hills: Herman Law (614m), Bell Craig (623m), Andrewhinney Hill (677m), Bodesbeck Law (665m)

Type: Graham/Donalds

The weather was crisp with threatening clouds, probably going to be similar to yesterday with a real mix of weather including hail again. But at least our route has the wind at our backs all the way.

The plan was to do the full ridge, having a car at each end, rather that backtracking the 4 and a half mile ridge, which a few of the reports did.

I had checked out access with the owner at Birkhill yesterday as the sign mentioned ion other reports has gone. To start we go between the cottages. The barking dogs were friendly but certainly alert the occupants.

The start from the cottages

I had read about the daunting ascent to Herman Law but the reality was that it was a lot easier than expected. Maybe having had a few days up and down these hills was building in hill fitness, certainly the legs felt better than yesterday.

Looks steeper looking down to Birkhill

A diagonal across to the left hand fence and follow it all the way to the summit. The gradient does ease and a basic track followed. Yesterday, the cottage owner told me his neighbour had put a Scottish flag up here, if so it has gone, stolen or blown away?

Good views all round and particularly of the route ahead. In reality there seems very little height loss between here and Bell Craig to justify the different hills getting Donald status but obviously Percy thought different. A few large well constructed cairns but not on the summits of the named hills, an odd one.

The more impressive cairns not on the summits

Still not complaining about the flatter terrain and with us making decent speed 3 of the four were quickly ticked off. 

Andrewhinney cairn looking over to White Coomb circuit

The continuous spectacular views across the Moffat Dale to the magnificent landscape around the White Coomb hills and the jagged ridge of Saddle Yoke are really spectacular and worth the effort.

Hart Fell horseshoe

The longest single stretch by far was from Bell Craig to Bodesbeck Law. It actually looks quite far away. It does have a few decent descents and reascent so this does justify its status. Again a fence to follow if required.

Looking back another snow flurry coming

Thankfully the weather was better than expected. The winds lighter and also at our backs to help push us along the ridge. 

Light snow on the final approach to Bodesbeck

There were a few flurries of hail and sleet but they did not last long. The terrain was excellent although this is after the prolonged dry spell. There are a few peat hag/bog sections that could be a lot different when wet but should be easily avoided. 

Gordon & Liz 

A short uphill grassy slog before crossing a fence where with a small pointed rocky top was Bodesbeck Summit. Stand and take in the views. Yesterday's Ettrick Pen not too far away, as the crow flies! The Hart Fell ridge really standing out.

Bodesbeck farm below, Swatte Fell prominent

A steep drop down over rough grassy slopes soon brought us to the right of way track marked on the OS map. This takes you down to Bodesbeck farm where a group of calves were hanging about the gate. They spotted us and went on the run but thankfully away from us, they certainly moved at some speed.

Bodesbeck Law from the finish

After that a short stroll back to the car.

An excellent walk in good company, a nice day out but glad we avoided that walk back along the ridge.

Ascent: 635m

Distance: 12.61km

Time: 5.23

Wildlife: Wheatear; Meadow Pipit; Raven; Pied Wagtail; House Martin.

Graham bagging in the rolling Border Hills

Hills: Capel Fell (Horse Hill?) (678m) & Croft Head ( Hill above croft) (637m)

Type: Both are a Graham & Donald

With the new found freedom allowed for small ad hoc groups a break out group from Ayr OIR headed to Moffat to visit the Ettrick Hills. Having a motorway drive almost felt like a new experience. These hills offer a mixture of ridges and valleys as well as a lot of forestry. They are also fairly isolated and we did not see another walker all day.

We started from the the traditional spot near the fish farm, a small parking area so be warned. Crossing the Moffat water we will be heading to the parallel Ettrick water which flows in the opposite direction, a watershed indeed. 

A dry Succoth burn

We opted to not follow the Succoth burn but to cross it and go up the flanks of Croft Head and head directly to the surface.

Deer fence 1

There was a good track lower down before we met the first deer fence. Thankfully decent gates were integrated into the fences so no climbing but still drew blood. The land has been recently planted with the small pine tree saplings poking out, but despite the forestry scars the going was good. It would have been an ideal pleasant grassy slopes in bygone days.

Finally get full view of Croft Head

A few hillocks giving false summits before the final opening with a good view of the steeper final assault on Croft Head. Excellent views into the deep Cleugh as well as the ravaged flanks of Capel Fell where landslips had caused major damage.

Looking over Broken Back, Sailfoot Law, at back Saddle Yoke ridge

A few huffs and puffs and stops for the views before we reached the summit, a merging of fences, not very inspiring voiced Gordon, agreement from the rest. But the views made up for any disappointment, superb rolling hills and all 5 Donalds of this route in sight.

Descending Cat Shoulder impressive Scar

Closer view

The Southern Upland Way makes a high level detour up here and we used it to descend to the original trail. 

Looking back from cairn to zig zag descent

A very steep but a well made zigzag path makes light work of the steep gradient. 

Craigmichen Scar ahead and behind the flank of Capel

Once down we took the easiest route following the SUW as it climbs and descends, a narrow track hemmed between the hills a delightful walk to reach the coll.

Well constructed bridge better than Shalloch version

Before making the final ascent of Capel it was time for a relaxing lunch enjoying the views to the 3 Donalds across the way particularly Wind Fell.. 

Some more huffing and puffing following the fence line (the boundary marker Selkirk-Dumfries) and an ATV track, then the second hill was bagged. 

View from Capel summit to Swatte Fell & Saddle Yoke

Again no cairn or trig just an eroded post to mark the summit but the plus factor was even better views. We are spoiled today. 

Looking over to our ascent of Croft from Capel

The ridges and hills of Ettrick are fully laid out. On a day like this wonderful viewing.

Final descent

A good descent and we reached the Sailfoot forest where deforestation was in full flow but thankfully no workings today. We decided to follow a swinging S shaped track before deciding to go in a straight line through the deforestation. 

Trouble ahead

Not a mistake but not straightforward either over the debris, hidden holes etc. A few sweary words muttered. Still, we all survived and the cars were just ahead, walk over.

A perfect day for walking but I underestimated the weather, no sun cream and a skelped face tonight. Hopefully the Herman Law ridge next.

Ascent: 820m

Distance: 11.1km

Time: 4.51

Wildlife: Hare; Jay; Meadow Pipit; Pheasant; Raven; Skylark; Buzzard; Peacock butterfly