The longest bike/hike of my ramblings.....Feshie Corbetts

Hill: Carn Dearg Mor (857m) (Big Red Hill) & Leathad an Taobhain (912m) (Hill of the Rafters)

Type: Corbett x2

After a longish period of inactivity due to a combination of things mainly weather and injury, I was slightly apprehensive about today’s outing. My main concern was whether my physical injury had actually healed as it was going to be a long way from anywhere if my body broke down at the far end. 

When planning I knew that the distances involved made it a very big day if done on foot, too far for me these days. Bike/hike still a big outing distance wise but shorter in time.

So bike/hike was the chosen option. From the walk reports almost everyone bike/hiking started from Auchlean but I could not understand why. It is the other side of the River Feshie and involves getting the bike across a burn which could be problematic with water height. Then cross a bridge to get to the perfectly good road that is on the other side.

I suspected that there would be no unauthorised vehicle access up to Glenfeshie Lodge. In reality that was correct but there are quite a few parking options including one almost up to the Feshie bridge crossing, so even if walking don’t bother starting from Auchlean.

As I prepared the clouds were low, the mist was hanging and it was a beautiful autumn morning for my ramble. The forecast was for good views and no rain, perfect.

I began with a stunning ride along a tarmac road taking in the gorgeous colours of the autumn trees and the light catching the shimmering webs of the money spiders.

Although we have had a dry year there has been a fair bit of rain recently so I was surprised at how low the River Feshie was running. Not low enough to paddle across but still great to look at.

I was heading into those hills

The views ahead started to open up after I passed the Lodge with very high slopes beginning to hem in the route. I was fully aware that after about 5 miles cycling I had not done any real climbing yet but that was to kick in super soon and it was not to be a lot of fun at times.

The track took a westerly turn and it had already changed just after the lodge to shale/small stone track but still good at this point.

The track between them snap taken just after I had to push the bike for a bit, looks fine but no grip on inclines if stopped

But as I started to climb, steeply, the surface was much more loose stone and soft earth, the tyres were struggling to grip and the riding was now very technical. I had been going along ok but on a steep slope an estate quad bike appeared behind me and wanted past. I let him go but I could not get riding again as the tyres were just spinning with no grip. So a heavy MTB was pushed until it slightly flattened out.

The light patch is where the trees should be

Back on the saddle I managed to get up to the point where the track forks for the 2 Corbetts. Decision time which to do 1^st? I opted for CMD and cycled on the track up until I was in the middle of a tree deforestation site. The one main problem with bike/hiking is taking the time to stop and check the route. It looked like I had come too far so I backtracked looking for the track that the OS map showed skirting the edge of the now destroyed tree plantation. I did not fancy walking over tree devastation, too many risks involved.

I could see some people on the ridge, they had orange and yellow jackets on so workies of some sort. No way they walked from here so I cycled back up the track and went to try to find their van and maybe an easier way up the hill.

I was contouring further away from my objective so slightly concerned but then I spotted a van parked up ahead. Even better there was a rough track doubling back up the hill heading towards the Corbett.

Carn Dearg Mor ahead

The track was rough but manageable and I was able to follow it to its end. In patches there was tree debris where non native growth had been cut and just left on the track. Fine for an ATV to get over but not so much fun for a bike.

Lay the bike in the heather, grabbed a mini pork pie and headed up the rough heather which quickly gave way to short grass so good walking until I hit the ridge. From here an ATV track took me to the summit of CMD. Views not bad as the Feshie Munros were dabbled in sunshine making them stand out but everywhere else was just rough peat hagged moorland. The autumn weather at altitude was decidedly nippy. This had already been more of an adventure than expected, injury was ok but I was feeling it so would I do the other one. I could see the track and it was even steeper than anything so far!!

Clambering down the rough ground I met up with a couple of the workies who told me the tree planting was a 10 year project involving 8 million native Scottish trees, quite staggering. The forestry manager said this would eventually be a forest again and not barren moorland, teeming with wildlife, but I will not be around to see it.

Carefully back along the track to the junction, I reckon that my back and forth and additional stuff probably added on about 5k of cycling.

I passed a guy with a puncture, did he want help but nope he had just finished. An easy place to puncture with these sharp stones everywhere. As I talked to him it dawned on me that my repair kit was not in my rucksack but still in the car, what a tube (sic), much added stress to my ramble!

I took the track to Leathad and soon caught up with a group of 6 females. I acknowledged them but didn't stop as I would not have got started again with the gradient and surface. Funnily never saw them again and there was no cut offs so I reckon they had taken a wrong turn and turned back to the track heading for Glen Tromie.

It had been a challenging ride so far but this track was the steepest gradient so far and much more loose stone. The wheels were jumping about everywhere and at times in different directions. It trying to unseat me or send me down the banking.

The point I had to abandon the bike and walk

I got to the point about 200 metres from the plateau where I just had to give up and leave the bike. It was too steep to push it without a lot of hard work so off I walked.

Annoyingly when I reached the top where the track levelled off and I could have easily cycled another kilometre or so.

Shark fin stone on the top of Meall an Uillt Chreagaich pointing to my target

I knew from my prep that there was a drop before reascending to Leathad. But when I first viewed it I was tired. I had not taken a proper food break and when I saw the steepness and length of the drop off and reascent my motivation just went. One option was to return tomorrow when I was refreshed. I had to give myself a good talking to. I was almost there, did I want that cycle that again? Nope.

It now drops about 100m or so with the following ascent of 160m but of course I had to come back the same way, so more ascent added to the ramble.

The start of the descent, the up track can be seen

Thankfully it is not over the moor as there is an ATV trail to follow but in the lower slopes of both sides it is a bog. Still onwards and upwards before a short heather crossing to find the trig. 

From trig looking back to the Cairngorms

Was I happy when I reached the summit? Not really at first, too fatigued to be happy lol, but it was another blue tick, so smile I told myself. As said I was tired and my calf was beginning to ache and I just wanted that last reascent over and get back to my bike.

This is definitely a remote spot with very few people around if something goes wrong. There are more further down as the estate trail now links with Glen Tromie but not up here.

Bike just ahead and then the challenging descent.

I was pleased to get back back to my bike and then the real heart rate raising adventure began. On this type of surface you cannot go fast as you will crash, no matter your skill level. But you cannot also go too slow as braking on the steep slopes creates wheel locking. Not a lot of fun when neither tyre still cannot grip and it is very difficult trying to control a bike in a situation like that.

What should have been a fast fun run out was without doubt fast in places; so very frustrating in others; painful in parts and it was with great relief when I hit the flatlands back to the lodge and headed back to the car. I will admit to losing it once and ended up with my face looking over the grassy bank but no damage done.

A recent storm has washed away a huge chunk of the opposite bank

Overall it was a success ramble but the cycling element was far tougher than I anticipated.

Back at the car my legs were tired but so was my back and arms from all the pummelling and tension on the bars/brakes. Still I got through it and I would still not have walked them, so job done. A beer or two on the cards to celebrate a record day.

Ascent: 1309m

Distance: 44.3km

Time: 5.49 (Bike/Hike)

Wildlife: Raven, Fieldfare

Speyside Way.....Kincraig - Newtonmore

Walk: Speyside Way

Section: Kincraig - Newtonmore

I wanted the good lady involved today so an obvious walk was another section of the Speyside Way, it really is time I finished this Long Distance route as priorities have changed. This was my final southern section and is a fairly recent addition to route which originally started/ended in Aviemore.

When we started it was the coldest and windiest day of the break by far. Kincraig is a lovely village but the residents don't want you parking in it, took ages to find a place to dump the car.

This must be one of the widest sections of the Spey

Walk started by crossing the River Spey which looks a nice height here compared to other parts of the river that I have seen recently. As always it seems with these long distance routes there is a mixture of signage. Some is the traditional Speyside Way marking posts but initially it is the Badenoch Way. I suspect most the Badenoch Way is now the add on to the Speyside Way route which extended it.

Insh water sports centre

The trees are overflowing with berries, hard winter ahead?

After the roadside section it is good to enter a wooded section albeit still near the road. Watersport centre is busy lots of kids shouting from their boats out on the water.

Speyside Way (nor Badenoch Way!!)

There was a lot of this

Very quiet en route through the trees only the odd cyclist to look out for. After about an hour the good lady headed back to the car with the plan for her to drive to Kingussie and meet up with me somewhere near the Barracks.

One of the Uath Lochans

The middle section is fully in the pine woods, lots of undulations and a few steep ascents enough to get my breathing heavier. A pretty lochan section where a number of cars and dog walkers around for a few minutes, but mainly same old.

After this the trail descends and for a long spell is simply a narrow trail passing isolated crofts and houses, some quite stunning. A mixture of run down cottages and stunning new/rebuilds. There are now views forward to Creag Dubh near Newtonmore, another that has been on my list for too long, need to sort that out. To my right are the Kingussie Corbetts whose estate tracks are such a scar that they are visible from the moon I suspect. However, I do have fond memories of seeing large numbers of mountain hares up there plus a camera disaster but that's another story.

The only damp section encountered

The occasional flash of colour in the woods alerted me that despite my trail being very quiet there were people around but not doing the same as me, wonder what they are up to as map shows no obvious paths?

First for ages

Hope it hadn't been nibbling on the nearby magic mushrooms

Just before I exited the woods I got an excellent red squirrel sighting, it has been ages since I saw one so delighted. My poor eyesight saw something dark against the bark of the tree so unsure I stopped. I was surprised at how dark its tail really was.

River Tromie falls from the bridge

Now the river and the falls were filling the air, silence no more. A narrow gorge that would be more spectacular with more water but still noisy and scenic. People now appearing, bad news.

The Speyside route bypasses the Insh Marshes but the track is too high up and tree laden to see anything worthwhile. Birdwatchers could detour for a spell.

Ruthven Barracks

Before you know it the ruins of Ruthven Barracks are in view, set on fire by the Jacobites following the 1745 rising. Just on plan I have been joined by you know who. A few visitors around, almost all English ironic considering where we are. But still very quiet as we walk into dead Kingussie, no coffee shop open on a Sunday, do they think they are in the Western Isles?

The dangerous bit crossing the track at the lovely Kingussie station

The good lady and I parted again as I did the final slog to Newtonmore solo. This is a rubbish section as it is along pavements and then a cycle track beside the road. The walk needs to be altered to go through countryside or really should finish up in Kingussie. My Cicerone book stops/starts at Aviemore.

Money spent on the finish/start at Newtonmore

Another Sunday dead village but relieved to find that there was one coffee shop open. Desperately needed cake and coffee from the Wild Flour. Gluten free carrot cake excellent and the good lady's strawberry laden Victoria sponge even better, so she tells me.

A walk on mainly hard packed surfaces was sore on the feet but I was moving quickly. Some good views and glad of that squirrel but not the most interesting route.

Ascent: 281m

Distance: 21.6km

Time: 4.15

Wildlife: Red Squirrel; Grey Wagtail; Wood Pigeon; Blackbird; 

Carn an Fhreiceadain the hill of hares, grouse and wind

After yesterdays little runt success today was the turn of its big brother, big runt, otherwise known as the Corbett ‘ Carn an Fhreiceadain, the Watchers (lookout) cairn standing at 878 metres. The met office forecast was consistent for this week, rain by 1pm. Initially when I woke it was grey and gloomy but by the time I had my toast & cuppa it had brightened up enough to be optimistic so off to Kingussie.
From my research and yesterdays observations I knew that there was an estate grouse track basically up and down the route. Fairly straightforward walking and little navigation required.

As I arrived at the car park I saw 2 guys walking away up the hill but never saw them again so they were not on my route, plenty of other options. Exactly on 9am I started walking by crossing the Gynack burn and following the road to the golf course and then into a pleasant tree lined section with the crystal clear water in the burn running fast on my left, I thought I might taste some that later, more of.
Walkhighlands route guide said to turn right and not cross a wooden bridge at the estate. As I approached a wooden bridge I could see a big house through the trees so off to the right I went following a clear track which was just before the bridge. At the side of the track was a large digger carrying out excavation work. After 10 minutes I had my doubts about this, the track was not going as I thought. Map out, wrong bridge, back down to bridge and about 300 yards later a 2nd wooden bridge!!

There are some route choices for you, straight up the west route to the Carn and return or take a circuit to include Beinn Bhreac going west to east or vice versa. The latter was my choice so I took the right turn and up the clear path, soon coming to a deer fence which I thought I was going to need to climb it as the latch would not open but eventually I got there.
Now out on the open moorland the track meanders and rises gently, my kind of walking. Plenty of sheep about and a few beautifully coloured male pheasants honking away. There are already good views across to the Cairngorms and on your left Creag Dhubh is the imposing hill.

Making good time I catch a glimpse of a sheep down a gulley, disappearing behind a mound, but something didn’t seem right and when I next spotted it, indeed I was wrong, it was a pair of mountain hares with most of their winter coat. Many more were to be seen today and some remained almost within touching distance. I wouldn’t have thought they see many people maybe its just that. I took a nice close up shot, checked the camera to find a message ‘no sd card’. Curses, amateur hour, I had left it in the laptop when transferring yesterdays snaps. Luckily mobile camera but no close ups.
The other prominent species were the plentiful red grouse. Again some remained so close it was unreal. Others did their normal behaviour and burst out from the gorse beside the track with the explosion of noise that gives the heart a flutter.

The path moves quite a bit eastwards of the Carn but when it turns back I soon spot the Green Bothy in the distance, something to focus on. The gradient is starting to increase, I knew the easy stuff couldn’t last, and it ramps it up from here to Beinn Bhreac. The expanding views are great but looking back an ominous black & solid weather front is coming this way, Newtonmore disappearing. So on with rain gear, needed anyway as the very strong winds were pretty chilly.

I reach Beinn Bhreac to a disappointingly small cairn, maybe as it has no classification of its own walkers just go on by. Still spend a minute taking in the views, remote countryside indeed.

I turn into the wind and head to trig point which is some distance away, the path twisting and turning, dropping down before climbing again, I didn’t need that. Thankfully the weather front has blown through to my east missing me but giving the cairngorm tops a new dusting of snow, my lucky day? Snow is still lightly holding on up here, clinging to the heather.

I stop at the trig and small cairn to take in the views which even with today’s weather are good. The Monadhliath mountain range is one huge area of remoteness. Newtonmore hills not too far away. I can also see a range of snow topped mountains way to the west which I assume will be the Fort William/Mamores area.

On the summit this is a large expanse of flat land, if it were not for the estate grouse track navigation could be an issue in inclement weather.
From the trig, going west there is a much more impressive stack so off I go to explore.  Not sure why it is there but it is very well constructed and the views are excellent.

But it is too cold to hang around so I follow the track downwards. No doubt this western side seems to be a steeper gradient. Views still great I take a break for food in a sheltered area looking down onto another bothy. The grouse shooters are well looked after on this estate.

Almost over and I now meet my only other walker of the day. We stop and chat for a couple of minutes, she is young and foreign and looking a bit underdressed for the weather, I hope the weather stayed good for her.

Down here there are a number of areas where the heather has given way.
Almost there and I see that the big digger is now well into the bank on the other side of the bridge. Later, when going past the golf course, the previously clear water is now silt brown, if the burn was a fishing water and Sepa informed I suspect digger man would be in trouble.

Back at the car I check the stats. Time taken 4 hours 24 minutes. Distance walked 11.46 miles and climbing was 665 metres. Happy with all that a good day and a beer awaits.

Creag Bheag not quite the runt of the litter

When you look up at Creag Bheag from Kingussie your immediate reaction would be to look at the map for something higher meaning better. It does not impress, it is not love at first sight, it looks like the runt of the litter, the ugly duckling. But dismiss this hill and you are going to miss some really fab views for little effort. Pick the right one as the OS map has a few hills of the same name in close proximity.

Creag Bheag & Loch Gynack

I was looking for a quick hit, whilst the good lady walked over to Ruthven barracks, and yet again the book ‘The Hughs’ provided another gem.
Definitely cooler than yesterday and the Cairngorms had a new dusting of snow. Forecast was for the odd shower in the morning, grey but okay.
We parked in the Ardvonie car park which is free. There are toilets for a 20p charge but one guy tried them and walked away, maybe too early.
I opted to walk from the left side of the car park (beside the loos), clockwise but it is a circuit and the anti clockwise is a bit more climbing effort if you want that, and followed the western road for almost three quarters of a mile.

Camera would not focus in time

It is a tarmac road with a lot of stunning traditional properties and the bonus of a red squirrel which was obviously used to people as it did not flee to far. Mrs B ecstatic that she got up early to see it.

We parted and I headed up the easy to follow track through a wooded area with sheep grazing, keeping a wary eye for my nemesis hill cattle but none to be seen. One buzzard came silently out of the woods to my right closely followed by a second. They quickly disappeared but I could hear their call along with the crows no doubt mobbing them.

Not long at all and you see crags and a bench. Looking back it is a grand view to Newtonmore. Just after you meet the more direct track from the car park and continue up the good stony track, quite muddy to the sides but no issue today.
I am approaching the summit when I spot a bird above, at first I thought it was one of the buzzards but even better a single golden eagle. I watched it make slow circles, at one point it closed in and the feet dropped, mighty talons showing clearly, and I thought a prey dive was on but no it just continued to circle on a thermal, climbing higher and higher until I could see it no more disappearing into the interior of the Monadhliath range. Still that was good.
Far to my right I spot a flash of yellow, focus and two climbers are about to abseil, yellow helmet goes first, then they are gone.

Nearing the top I can see that there are two cairns. I went first to the one on the right which I think was the top cairn but just in case walked across to the other.

Cairn with Kingussie below

All in just 48 minutes from the car park to here and what views. A full 360 degree perspective. This is a spot to spend some time. The wind was cold and I spot another walker at another cairn over to my right. I walk on but as I approach he walks away, strange but obviously wanted no company not even a chat.

Handy windbreak

It turned out that the structure was a stone wind break very welcome as its angle today was full protection. Time to sit, have a drink and an orange and simply enjoy the view. Despite the greyness of the day you still can’t beat it.
The track down is well looked after, constructed with large stones. Mrs B’s knees would have felt it but for me it was good.

The tracks on Carn an Fhreiceadain

I have a clear view of tomorrows destination, Carn an Fhreiceadain along with its other outlying summit Beinn Bhreac. However the massive tracks up and down both hills are not pretty on the eye.

On the descent North Gynack path to Newtonmore can be seen

Loch Gynack is below but not a fisherman in sight, the water looks pretty choppy from up here.
Once down I follow the trail and cross the golf course, narrowly avoiding a genuinely miss hit drive, and wander down the road to Kingussie.

Profile of Craig Bheag from golf course taken in Autumn

A couple of hours gets you up and down at a leisurely pace.  3.9 miles, 248 metres climbed. Magnificent views which would be even better on a clear sky day but nevertheless very well worth doing. Not at all an ugly duckling.