Scaling the Aonach's the cheats way

Hill: Aonach Mor (1221m) & Aonach Beag (1234)
Category: Munro

Today was jestingly called our rest day as we were only doing two Munros with over 800m of climbing. And sad to say we did them with assistance, not all shoe leather effort. The gondola ride took us a long way up the hill (650m). It was a pleasant and relaxed way to go up a hill, except when it stopped a few times swaying in the breeze, along with excellent views. These hills are in the top ten of the highest Munros. 

Steep start

Still, despite the initial aid this was not straightforward. The uphill climb from the gondola station, up the steep grassy slopes was rather gruelling. No doubt yesterdays big efforts were still in the legs so a bit laboured.
Relief to get onto the ridge and we could now see the route ahead but our labours were not over.

Fort William

The views over Lochaber and district already outstanding. Along Loch Eil the eye finds Rum & from a later angle Eigg. Angle around Little & Ben Wyvis in the distance.

This is a broad plateau with warning/danger signs, easy to walk off the edge in bad weather. But no danger today in this clear visibility. Superb views as you would expect.

Aonach Mor plateau and cairn ahead 

Just under 2 hours from the start we reached the cairn of Aonach Mor. On one side fantastic clear views over yesterdays Grey Corries ridge circuit. On the other the CMD and Ben Nevis clear of cloud. Views all the way out to Rum.

Beag top in distance from Mor

On our way to Aonach Beag, which from here looks much higher than where we are standing, but is in fact only higher by 13 metres. Funny how distance and panorama plays tricks with your perspective. Our forebearers named these hills after their bulk not their height.

Aonach Beag

A gentle descent and the grass was over. Now it is a rocky scree path to half scramble, half walk up. There are various routes, just pick the one for you and before long the second top has been reached.

View to the Grey Corries

Another wide flat top and time to take in the superb close ups views of the westerly Mamores, Glencoe hills and much more.

CMD ridge behind

Quite a few walkers spotted going up the Ben via the CMD arête, would love to do that one day.

Ben Nevis & CMD in foreground 

There were weather fronts bypassing by so lucky us. Ben Nevis summit was now in cloud, bad news for the late starters.

Return back up the bulk of Mor

A return by the same route with the steep grassy descent, easy on the feet but challenging the knees, a bit painful.
Back at the gondola station and time for well deserved coffee and cake. 
The MTB World cup is taking place this weekend so great views from the gondola of the course being laid out. The forecast does not look great for them, sad.
Another great day in great company and Scotland at its best.

Wildlife: zilch
Time: 4.51
Ascent: 886m (2906ft)
Distance: 10.4km (6.25m)

Anything but a grey day on the Grey Corries

The Grey Corries ridge

Hill: Stob Choire Claurigh (1177m) & Stob Coire an Laoigh (1116m)
Category: Munros

Day 3 and another outstanding day on the hills. Today we walked what many consider to be the ‘Best Ridge Walk in the Central Highlands’. Who am I to argue, it was a superb high level walk with views to die for.

Wee Minister

We parked up at the normal place at Coirechollie after the pot holed rough track that passes the farm. Glad we did as the out walk was long enough.

A short walk up a good track, through the woodland reaching the Wee Minister.

(About Lochaber: You are soon welcomed by the outstretched hand of The Wee Minister, who is accompanied by a plaque and a donation box. According to the plaque, the wooden replica replaces stone a statue dating from the 1900s, and is that of the Reverend John McIntosh. However, local opinion is that the statue more likely to be that Dr. Thomas Chalmers who was the first Moderator of the local Free Church of Scotland. The statue was a gift and originally erected in 1886 in the manse garden of the Moderator John McIntosh in Achintore Road, Fort William.

The statue was removed by the wife of John McIntosh when he was away during the First World War and relocated to the church grounds above Monzie Square in Fort William. It remained there until 1968 from whence it was removed to Glen Spean, where it quickly became a local attraction. The statue and was thought to bring good luck to climbers and walkers alike on their route to the Grey Corries. Unfortunately, the stone statue began to disintegrate and was eventually removed in the 1970s. The statue was resurrected in May 2010 by the Glen Spean and Great Glen Tourism Marketing Group as a wooden replica with a donation box for the Lochaber Mountain Rescue).

Before reaching a gate then a sharp right hander and the climb begins. Although we are heading for the 15th highest Munro this very long grassy ascent is pretty good going. Still lots of heavy breathing and sweat but good. Damp ground nearly stood on a frog. A Jay leaves the trees but minimal wildlife observed today.

Go right then flank left and up and up...

Strike for the skyline was our war cry but there were lots of false promises today, skyline after skyline. Until one looked like a stone top, the ridge proper, hopefully Stob Coire Gaibhre.

Plateau reached ridge in full view

Indeed it was, great views of our journey ahead but still a long way until even Munro one.

The going was now intermittent patches of grass but mostly boulder terrain, not the easiest walking but the panorama outstanding. Concentration required again to avoid twisted ankles or worse.

Watch your step

Deep gulley’s alongside as we made our way onwards and upwards. We even had our lunch before climbing the first top (Claurigh), lunch ended quickly by a flurry of snow.

Stob Coire Claurigh ahead

A short scramble, yes hands on, to the top and the whole ridge opened up to us. What a sight. 

The ridge, The Aonach's and Ben Nevis

Eyes drawn immediately to the route ahead but a good look around has many peaks in view from distant Schiehallion and the Lawers range to closer by the Mamores and Glencoe as well as Ben Nevis and the Aonach ridge, spectacular.

The two figures give scale to the snap

The ridge is a brilliant walk on a day like this, plenty of tops, never dropping under 1000m, take our time enjoy the day and the views.

Castail crags 

Castail was impressive, the crags look like an ice climbers winter practice area, before climbing our last Munro (Laoigh). 

The ridge back from Stob Coire an Laoigh

A rocky descent then ascent takes us back up to the 1000m mark on Beinn na Socaich, our last top today.

The way down, a long way down

We then started the long descent along the grassy ridge before dropping unto more rough tussocky terrain before we hit a deer fence. Here the fun began. The Walkhighlands route does not mention this fence. There was a gate, beyond which, was a deforested zone, the woodland mentioned had gone!!

We eventually followed the fence down to the dam but water to deep to cross. Went further back upstream where we were able to stone hop and wade across. If this was in spate? (Having reread Storers description this water crossing is included as the route).

Derelict Puggy Line

This side joined up with the mapped route but it was a long walk back to the car. Amused by stumbling across this abandoned rail track, the Puggy line. 
(Patrick Howat: ""The term Puggy Line is used in the Fort William area, although it strictly belonged to the Pier Railway, for it was only on that line that 'pugs' - a Scottish colloquial name for small steam locomotives - were used in the days of the british Aluminium Co Ltd to transport workers and goods re the aliminium smelter. The fact that a narrow guage railway system totalling about 26 miles existed in a highly scenic area of the west of Scotland comes as a great surprise to many. Many sections of the railway track have now been removed).

A fantastic walk across a superb ridge on a great day with great company, its up there with as good as it gets.

Wildlife: Jay, Skylark, Frog
Time: 8.10
Ascent: 1405m
Distance: 19.7km

An Sgurr a magical trip to Eigg

Hill: An Sgurr, Eigg
Category: Sub2000/Marilyn
Height: 393m

It’s always rewarding to complete a To Do list item. Day two of our trip and a walk that I have wanted to do since I sailed past it a couple of years ago. From the sea this cliff formation looks very impressive and an unlikely scalp for a hill walker but indeed it can be done.

View from ferry as we get close

A long day started with a drive from Fort William to Mallaig then the Calmac ferry to the Small isle of Eigg, a waiting list to get on, but we all did. When I put this forward as a proposed route for the club week I had not anticipated how popular it would be although a few just came for the island and not the An Sgurr.

Sun comes out on Eigg

What a day and it did not disappoint. A magical island on a sun kissed day with views to die for. 
Disembarking at Eigg a golden eagle could be seen circling the top of An Sgurr, what a start.
The ferry had also offloaded a lot of bikers so the initial walking section was through the woods, smelling of aromatic wild garlic, and dodging the bikes as they came past.

Looking impressive 'are we going up there'?

When we broke out of the woods at Galmisdale the Sgurr was a mighty impressive lava stack sitting behind.
I almost blotted my copybook by missing the turn off as we blindly followed the bikers on the Gruilin trail. Thankfully I realised quickly, a short turnaround and there was the cairn cut off.

Intimidating

The path is well trodden, muddy and wet in parts but overall in good condition. The Sgurr looking more impressive as you get closer. The Sgurr was a lava flow from a volcano on Rum, an intimidating mass of rock as we now stand beside and below it.

Rum

Thankfully the trail travels along the side before rising up giving magnificent views of Rum. Looking so close that you could touch it.

Muck

Turning back on ourselves the island of Muck so clear, but far below. The Western Isles are in view along with many other points including The Dutchman’s Cap and Ardnamurchan lighthouse.
The group had been ‘ooing’ and ‘aahing’ as the various outstanding views unfolded, everyone on track a good sign.

Final track

A short scramble up the sharp lava to reach the final side trail that leads to the round trig. What a fantastic place to have lunch and take in all the views.

Trig with the Singing Sands behind

Back to the mainland, name the peaks? Skye name the peaks? Magnificent.
On the top the views given depth by the sheer drops, not a place to go to close to the edge on a windy day trying to get that better camera shot.
Stand at the nose and look back to the terminal, group snap, then we about turned and went back the same route to the terminal.

Community stone

Early so time to enjoy the beer and home baking at the café. Some opting for ice creams and some even taking a paddle in the turquoise waters on a sunny afternoon.
A superb day and a walk that I hope I never forget. An enchanting a magical Scottish island, if only all days could be like this.

Wildlife: Golden Eagle, Buzzard, Cuckoo, Swallow, House Martin, Meadow Pipit, Manx Shearwater, Razorbill, Gannet, Black Guillemot, Minke Whale,
Time: 3.24
Ascent: 1587f (438)
Distance: 5.65m (9.3k)

A dreich but fun day in Glen Nevis

Walk: Glen Nevis & Polldubh Falls
Category: n/a
Height: n/a

My first day in Fort William for the ADRC’s walking week was meant to be a strenuous double Munro stint but with the foul weather it was cancelled so I joined the groups low level outing. The walk was around Glen Nevis with the Polldubh falls a highlight.

Umbrellas to the fore

The walk started and finished at the Youth Hostel where most were staying. It’s not often I have been for a group hill walk and seen so many umbrellas lol.

Not quite Everest but a fence blockage

And yes, as per forecast, it was tipping down. In addition with the weather on the outward route, the straightforward path was anything but. I lost count of the number of fast flowing streams that we had to cross, wade or jump. 

Wide wade

And throw in a few barbed wire fences to get over, a bit of an obstacle course outing in the wet.

Obstacle course

Crossing the footbridge over the River Nevis the water below was raging, running deep and fast.

Walk the plank

We then followed the very muddy path along the river upstream to Polldubh where the Falls were spectacular. 

Polldubh falls

A raging torrent of fast brown water and what a noise. Just shows how much rain there has been.

Quick break

Then we crossed over the bridge and continued for a short while along the road till we reach Achriabhach cottage. 

Discussing the brolly pro's and con's

We turned left onto a forestry track which we followed all the way down the glen. We continue along the track until we reach the path signed Glen Nevis Visitor Centre. 

Deforestation everywhere

From here we followed the path along the river bank back to where we started at the Youth Hostel.
A fun walk on a very wet day, the company and the banter made it.

Wildlife: Buzzard, raven.
Time: 4.2
Ascent: 820ft
Distance: 8.49

The Merrick by the non tourist route

Hill: Merrick
Category: Corbett
Height: 843m
A brief blog for a short(ish) walk. I wanted a leg stretcher before the Fort William trip so returned to the Awful Hand and walked the Merrick by a non tourist route.
I turned in at Kirriereoch and went up the estate track to just past the reservoir. I had hoped to drive further but a padlocked gate said no. This meant an additional 30 minutes each way walking on the stony stuff, not good on the light boots. As I got ready a cuckoo called, nice start.

Stony track target in view

A few turning options, map out, some show some don’t, but I made it to the road end that I wanted. 

Head up tree line

I had been tempted to cut in over the deforestation. Glad I didn’t as a ‘relatively’ flattened area went up alongside the remaining trees.
Now an hour of Galloway terrain at its best. Plenty of tussocky ground to roll the walking. Peat hags and sphagnum moss beds to get you wet and muddy (glad it had been a dry spell). The constant smell of smoke as selective burning had been taking place recently.

Way ahead from Kirriemore Hill

A clamber up to the first viewpoint at Kirriemore Hill. Just pick your route via the deer and sheep lines and the odd quad bike track, all disappear quickly.

You can see the difference between moor and good walking, crags easily avioded

From here, on this clear day, it is a straightforward walk which you can see ahead clearly.  However, if weather was poor great care required as the crags of Black Gairy on your left are dangerously steep. There is a stone dyke to stop you but it is broken in places.

Kirriereoch Hill

Views of Kirriereoch Hill on your left but did not spot anyone on it. Despite the forecast saying the warmest day of the week it was getting rather cold up here so extra gear on.

Panorama Merrick top looks a lot further than reality

The going is now a lot better, short grass and figures spotted on The Merrick. A pleasant plateau stroll to the top.

Deforestation 1, Knockdolian in distance

A circuit over to Kirriereoch is an option but with the deforestation it could be a long walk back to the car so back the same route.

Deforestation 2 bottom of Kirriereoch

Three excellent close encounters on the walk. as I breached a hummock at Kirriemore Hill a small herd of seven red deer hinds were within yards, a short stare down and off they went.
On the way down a quick flash of colour made me look up from bog avoiding, a bright orange/red fox ran across my path and jumped into the trees. 
Finally on the long walk out a roe deer stag came running down the track towards me. It looked big but as soon as it saw me, brakes on, a quick look and into the trees to be seen no more.
Exercise complete now for the big week ahead.

Wildlife: Red deer, Roe deer, Fox, Skylark, Meadow Pipit (plus nest 4 eggs), Cuckoo, House Martin, Buzzard,
Time: 4.15
Ascent: 776m
Distance: 15.1k

Tarmachan and the Witches Hat

Hill: Meall nan Tarmachan
Type: Munro
Ascent: 923m
There are days when you just know that the walk is going to be a good one and today was just that.
To avoid the hotel breakfast buffet fighting between the coach loads of German & Dutch that arrived last night I was up early and one of the first in the queue, no sunbeds here pal!
After two days of frustrating no sight and no feel salmon fishing I was ready to get back to the hills.

Grannom hatch

But before I cover the walk, yesterday, on the River Tay, I witnessed a once in a lifetime experience as a biblical Grannom hatch engulfed the river. This lasted for at least 20 minutes and if I said there were a million insects I might well be underestimating, it was vast and numerous, a never to be forgotten natural history event.
After a too big Scottish breakfast I left the Ben Lawers car park and was heading up the Munro of Meall nan Tarmachan. It is better known as a ridge walk but on my way home this was meant to be just the Munro.

Starting path at bottom of carpark

Early start and only a couple of walkers ahead that I could see, found out later a solo guy had been hiding somewhere and saw us pass!!
The sun was out with warmth and so were the butterflies: Peacock: small and large Whites as well as my first sighting this year of the orange tip, a real favourite.

Meall nan Tarmachan from the moor

Early on the walk the birds were also prominent, a male cuckoo calling my first since Sutherland. Red grouse honking. Skylark and Meadow Pipit aplenty. Once again the early solitary walker catches the wildlife.

From below I thought these sacks were a line of sheep lol

On the hillside a line of white dots that I originally thought were sheep are actually bags of stones for the Trust when they start upgrading the path again.
Despite my huffing and puffing I was making good time and caught up the two ahead (plus dog) just at the deer fence. During our chat they encouraged me to go past the top and on to the Witches Hat (Meall Garbh).

Ridge and Witches hat prominent

As you climb your right hand side gives constant views of the Lawers Munros and the left is the start of the ridge to the Witches Hat.
This last section is a steep climb up a well made track and soon the vista is expansive. A slight back turn takes me to the Munro top, 1 hour 32m pleased with that. The village of Killin looking distant far below.

Tarmachan cairn looking along ridge

But as they said the view over to the Witches Hat  looks irresistible. I had made better than expected time, reckoned 45 minutes across there and back, so off I headed.

Beautiful day for a high level walk

A well trodden trail, superb views, isolation, airy at the top and great views down the glen, a pair of dotterel close by, and red deer far down below in the glen. A 360 degree view to take time, soak it in and thank god you are the one to see it.

Dam below

Frustrated at knowing that I couldn’t do the full ridge today I headed back the way I came but on reflection, looking back from the descent, I could have descended directly from the Witches Hat, left that for another day.

Descending towards Loch Tay

Stopped and chatted to a few folk as they ascended, smug that I was descending and before long I was back at the car. Water bottle emptied it was very warm on the lower slopes.

Wildlife: Wheatear; Meadow Pipit; Skylark; Dotterell; Red Deer; Cuckoo; Red Grouse. Peacock, Orange tip and large White butterflies.
Time: 3.32
Ascent: 2498ft (907m)
Distance: 6.39m (10.5k)