When a Corbett has the beating of a Munro.....Cul Mor

Hill: Cul Mor
Type: Corbett
Height: 849m

Yesterday I bagged an easy Munro and today was meant to be an easy Corbett. Well one was a relative jaunt for your fit granny and the other, well quite hard work. Walkhighlands describes it as a fine peak and indeed it is.

View from the start a bit gloomy

Cul Mor is the highest of the Assynt Corbetts and has very steep flanks on every side bar this easterly ascent. As I got ready at the car any memory of fleeting heat had long gone. The wind was still wild but much colder. The top of Cul Mor was in cloud, the joys. Of course my gear is shorts and a light waterproof jacket. Final test for the tendon would I even bother?
Well yes, I headed up the well made stalkers track wondering if this was a good idea as the tendon throbbed away. I knew from previous walks that once I started climbing it would ease off and thankfully that happened.
With the amount of rain the good path was still pretty boggy in places.
About a quarter of the way up I reached a cairn where the path became a full time bog, they have obviously had lots of rain up here too.

A brief glimpse of the twin peaks, Cul Mor right, and some of the mini cairns

After this another cairn is reached and the landscape changes to a rocky plateau. The rounding gradient means you never see too far ahead of you so there is a multitude of small cairns to head towards. Apart from the the final section of Ben Nevis I don't think I have ever seen so many cairns on a hill. There is no doubt it would be easy to get lost on this section in bad weather if you cannot navigate, no path to talk of. I could hear calling from the stones and eventually spotted a well camouflaged brown bibbed Dotterel staring at me.

Descent route crosses the steps or come down Creag nan Calman. Cul Beag peak on the left in background

Finally the top of this section on Meallan Diomhain is reached and the special geography of this area is in full view.
After the relative flatness of the landscape Cul Mor is seen in all its glory with two main peaks separated by a sweeping ridge. Creag nan Calman, the smaller peak, is on your left and could be used as part of the descent. Cul Mor looks quite intimidating as i know I am heading off to climb up near the crags not seen from here, heart rate up.
There is also a geographical phenomime known as solifluction terraces where a set of ridges come down like steps, ice age melting and refreezing.

Looking back down the final ridge, steeper than it looks

I took the anti clockwise route across some pathless terrain before coming across a reasonable track. This continued to arch before climbing the steep slopes of Cul Mor. Excellent views looking north, sadly the last views for a while.

A glimpse of the viewing potential

Once the track peters out at the boulder field it is full on scrambling for a short section. I enjoyed that bit but others might not. It reminded me of the section heading up towards Bidean nam Bian, good fun.

Sron Gharbh ridge shows itself, for a minute I thought I might get along it

The tops are in cloud but the weather gods open briefly to show the western ridge over to Sron Gharbh which would normally be an extension of the walk.
That weather gap did not last long as the clouds descended to the lowest today and of course nae views from the cairn.

Gloomy cairn but a spot to escape the wind if nobody else around, Covid isolation

I was in full navigation mode as I headed towards the ridge and the clouds opened for 10 seconds, just enough time to show me how close I was to the crags and a long drop. Although I was aware of the proximity of the edge, my mind said drift in a bit, so I did.
I walked past my descent route for a few minutes but decided the cloud was not going to lift so no point in walking over to the spur of Sron Gharbh, brilliant views apparently if clear but not today.
It took some careful navigation to get back on route, visibility was about 20 metres.
I reached the soft sandy area, strange to be walking on almost a beach, another indication of the geology of this area and our past.

Exiting the cloud heading to the left of that bump ahead

I was dropping out of the clouds and had found a good track but my Walkhighlands route wanted me to come away from it. I did but in retrospect I would have stayed with the track or climbed the other peak and descended from there.

Love the velvet antlers

The contouring was pretty demanding, steep wet rocky sections and grassy/rocky terrain full of traps, not a lot of walking fun but short lived.
The consolation was that I spotted a red deer hind with a calf ahead but also just below a stag was grazing away. he looked up but either could not detect or smell me, or could not be bothered and continued grazing, a great sight so close up. Look at the velvet on those antlers glistening in this light. My concern was that I was directly in between the stag and the hind. When he caught my scent thankfully he trotted off in the other direction.

Spotted

After this contouring I reclimbed the stony slopes to join up with a cairn and start my descent.

Back at Meallan Diomhain, looking back Cul Mor, Suilven peaking out and Canisp on right

I knew there were a couple of walkers some way behind me but now the bus had dropped everybody off. Four different parties (two foreign), some with kids, not all looking good to make this summit but here's hoping.
The descent has excellent views, not the least the ridge of Knockan Crag. The visitor centre and trail is worth a visit, educational in understanding how this is one of the oldest landscapes around. The circular walk has excellent views for little effort.
Back at the car I was aware of my tendon but not as bad as yesterday and this was much more awkward walking. Probably wake up unable to walk, it has been a strange injury.
Sitting at the car stuffing my face with cake and looking across the way at it's smaller twin, Cul Beag, which although smaller looks even tougher, maybe when back later in the month. Cul Mor was still coming in and out of cloud. A return visit required to see those views properly, but that won't be a hardship.
Ok, that's the warm ups done the true extent of the injury will be found out tomorrow, a big, big day ahead.

Wildlife: Meadow Pipit; Dotterel; Red deer stag + hind with calf.
Ascent: 795m
Distance: 12.4km
Time: 4.32

The wind gods have fallen out with me.....Meall Chuaich

Hill: Meall Chuaich (The hill of the Quaich, a drinking vessel)
Type: Munro
Height: 951m

Firstly lets look at the scenario. Today was to be the best day of the summer so far, that couldn't be hard, with blue skies and warmth forecast.
I woke up to the same as almost every day for the last 6 weeks, grey skies, cloudy, but at least no rain.
In the car the nice man on BBC radio Scotland said it was great to have summer here at last. A few expletives, this man clearly was not broadcasting from this part of Scotland. Immediate switch to Planet Rock.
Grey skies until Glasgow, a flicker of blue, gloomy at Stirling and and an absolute pea souper between Stirling and Perth, what is going on?

Meall Chuaich straight ahead

Slightly brighter skies when I got out to start my walk, almost blown over, was it a convoy of articulated lorries passing on the A9, nope just the wind, wow.
On my way to Ullapool so I decided to break the journey and tick off another of my A9 hills.
The names of some hills in Gaelic give you a double take, like where did they get that description from? Meall means a rounded hill and this one is a perfect description. But the drinking vessel?
This bag is a journey of two halves or 4 quarters, unless you throw in the two Dalwhinnie Munros, covered a couple of blogs ago, but if you do this have two cars unless you are super fit. Or, you could throw in the nearby Graham Creag Ruadh, but I was saving my legs so a straight forward one hill up and down.
Four quarters. A steady hour long trek along a hard packed estate track. Followed by an hour up the hill. Then reverse. Another tester for the tendon.

Money maker at a cost to nature

This is shooting estate land and they have built this running water system, no doubt at some cost and also no doubt for profit. The damage it does is that the natural burn from the glen, Allt Chuaich, is now almost bone dry and the natural life surrounding it gone, sad times. The aqueduct carries the water to Loch Ericht and on its perimeters wildlife is negligible. The burn would have had trout and all the insect life that goes with that.
At least there is a view of the rounded one as I hike in. 
A young family out for a low level walk were delighted as I spotted a Golden Eagle coming over Ruadh and pointed it out, a first for the family, hopefully the kids will remember it.

Get off the shooting track, head up that scar

There are estate tracks all over the place but the hill track is obvious even without the sign, shooters don't want you on their tracks!

Once over that you have a view of the next section

As said, an hours plodding up a sometimes grassy, sometimes very boggy, sometimes no track at all, just boulders trail. A few false summits before you hit the open top. The wind has been trying its best to knock me over, it has been brutal. I don't know what mph it is but easily the strongest over the last few weeks and no gusts just full on blowing strong. And on this rounded top nothing to break its strength.
Nice view down to Loch Cuaich, note another OS map spelling mistake? 

The large cairn

A foreign couple were just in front of me and the girl scrambled on to the large cairn before quickly deciding this was dangerous and not so elegantly slid off before the wind blew her over.

Descending The Fara straight ahead with Ben Avon behind left

Reasonable views, only because hazy in distance, would be cracking on a crisp winters day.  There are 360 deg views over Kingussie, Newtonmore, Badenoch, Cairngorms, Ben Alder etc but to the south it looked like rain coming this way so no hanging around.
After my brief stay up top trying to stay erect I followed the same route back, it was easier to avoid the bogs on the descent. 

Revealing the history

I also noticed this tree debris sticking out of a peat bog. I presume a remnant of the natural original forest covering before sheep and grouse became more important than the natural landscape and people of course.

Creag Ruadh on the right, Loch Cuaich (OS misspelling?) in view.

The view down was pretty enough but the estate tracks are numerous and scar the landscape. 
I stopped off outside one of the locked private bothies and enjoyed an apple, taking in the hill and surrounding landscape, sheltered from the winds, nice.
A long walk back with a throbbing tendon, not sure if Sunday's biggie is going to happen.
Back at car the heat has been down here, my looked forward to after walk Aero bar had melted!

Wildlife: Golden Eagle; Raven; Pied Wagtail; Meadow Pipit; Wheatear; Stonechat.
Ascent: 647m
Distance: 15.8km
Time: 4.15

Boggy and breezy on Callums hill

Getting prepared as the rain hosed down so a good test for the new jacket. Not such good news for an ascent that already has a reputation for being boggy. 

Dreich beginning hill hidden in the clouds

However, the forecast was for it to dry up around noon but with strong 30mph winds, a narrow ridge, the joys.
We walked through the farm which surprisingly has two graveyards, one newish, well attended and attractive and the other very run down with some ancient headstones. Interesting tales in there no doubt. 

Religious site

There was a priory on the site and the map shows 'Priests Well' behind the farm so religious connotations.
We managed to negotiate the railway line and on reflection did not hear any trains during the walk. Still a sound idea to look and listen before crossing.
The good news was that the constant rain had eased considerably and the sky behind was brightening from the west.

Mud and the fence

The bad news was that it was really boggy in places, deep sucking black gloop, glad I had put on my gaiters.
This is a popular hill so navigation is not an issue during the main section for two reasons. Firstly there is a muddy track to follow and secondly the fence is a constant until almost the first summit.

First summit cloud clearing

There are two deer fences to negotiate. The first is a walk through but the second is a high stile, not the most robust construction.

Looking down the steeper section

It is a long trek albeit with a good easy going gradient before you reach the hardest section up to the first summit. The views as you rise are great particularly across to your right where from Ben More south the whole Munro collection standing out.

Crianlarich Munros

Whilst on the very steep pull the winds were at their fiercest making walking really difficult, glad I had brought my poles as the extra anchoring points were needed at times.
Now on the first top where navigation is required in poor weather as there is a narrow ridge to cross with a big drop off.
Today's concern was not a case of seeing where we were going but in these winds the issue was would we walk or crawl across?

Final climb

Thankfully we walked and did not get blown off. A short descent before the final pull up to the summit and its cairn. As you would expect the views are extensive. Nearby all the Tyndrum hills. 

The Ridge and ben More behind

Looking east and close by Glas Maol and partners. As mentioned earlier the full Crianlarich Munros and plenty more besides.

Heading back over the ridge

However, not a day for lingering as the wind is still blowing strongly so back over the ridge and sheltered for lunch.
It was simply a case of retracing our ascent route but greater care required as easy to slip and my tendon was now giving me some grief. 

Descent, Ben Lui and companions

Almost all the way down when my foot went into a hidden grassy hole and badly twisted the already sore tendon. Luckily the poles kept me from further damage but it was the last thing the ankle needed.

New graveyard on descent

Overall what was not a promising weather start became a very good walk with views to remember.
As we changed cars were constant heading south so no doubt a very slow drive around Loch Lomond lay ahead.

Walk: Ben Challum (note OS 1: 25000 has a slightly different spelling Challuim) (Callums Hill)

Category: Munro

Height: 1025m

Wildlife: Pied Wagtail; Meadow pipit.

Ascent: 947

Distance: 12.4km

Time: 5.32

Two not so eye catching Drumochter Munros

Walk: A’ Bhuidheannach Bheag (936m); Carn na Caim (941m)

Type: Munro x 2

Height: 824m

Walkhighlands: ‘The east side of Drumochter pass is bounded by a steeply rising moor, riven by gullies. Surprisingly given its unimpressive appearance, there are two Munros on the plateau above. The hills themselves lack interest but this walk gives a real feeling of space. The tops are the haunt of dotterel and ptarmigan’.

Yesterdays marathon seemed to have helped stretch the tendon, in any case I decided it was good enough to tackle my two planned hills. As I am on my own today anyway there was no hassle if I turned back. I also knew that after the initial section all the walking would be on soft surfaces.

Parked at the normal layby start and managed to safely cross the A9, the only dangerous part of this walk. In fairness at this time in the morning not much traffic around.

The start, the track can be seen in the middle

Head north a bit and track stands out. I could see 4 figures heading up, more about them later.

The estate track is the typical stony affair and not the most pleasant walking. Tendon starting to throb on this stuff, not a good sign. It is simply a case of head down and plod on. The trudge up lasts for about 500m. On a good day you could stop and take in the views, today was not one of those.

I had noticed the 4 regularly looking back and they slowed so much I had to pass them, commenting that youngsters like them should be ashamed letting an old guy come past them. They did laugh.

Funny how after that they never strayed far from me!

I decided to follow the Walkhighlands route so turned left at the quarry junction, certainly not much of a quarry. With the benefits of hindsight I would have done the other one first.

Reached the top to the gloom

The winds were stronger than yesterday and the first of a few heavy showers hit so waterproofs on. As I stopped the 4 youngsters went by but then stopped not long after, waiting until I passed, you know what was happening.

The clouds had descended so no long views but there is an old fence to follow if in any doubt of your navigation.

I picked up the pace on this relatively flat ground, if you avoid the hags. Over a hill I deviated from the normal route going cross country for a bit and guess what the kids had upped the pace and so did they. No doubts now that they were following me rather than following their own route.

Carn na Caim, well did you expect a spectacular top?

Rain eased off, clouds lifted and I got a view of the way ahead and before long the small cairn appeared. The very boggy area was ok today.

Not a day to hang about, cold and windy with minimal views. Meall Chuaich was close to the north and looked a significant climb, some people add this on to this route but you really need a car at each end unless you are super fit or just plain daft.

Ben Alder range in background

As I passed the kids one commented that I had not stayed long which meant they did not either as they clearly wanted to keep me in their sights.

Trekked back the same way moving quickly, not because of the kids but the weather. This section was probably the best view as the clouds lifted enough and I had the Ben Alder massif directly ahead.

The track is clear even if the summit looks kind of flat

At the junction the track now does a few ups and downs before reaching the white stone cairn indicating the left turn. I could see some walkers in the distance heading up the grassy slopes so the route was obvious.

Looking back the kids must really have run to have caught sight of me with these up and downs and then they stopped. I would not have minded helping them but it was annoying that they just followed with no conversation or acknowledgment.

Munro number 2, A Bhuidheannach Beag

There is a faint grassy track to follow, which differs from the Walkhighlands GPS. That seemed to go straight into the peat hags so I stuck with the line of sight track. As expected the kids followed me.

Featureless terrain

Up top some more boggy peat terrain to negotiate but just a short walk to the cairn which was in the gloom. Looking around this is a true high level moorland terrain and although you are not going to fall off anything in bad weather it could be easy to lose your bearings. Not the place to be in a winter white-out if you cannot navigate.

Looking west, not much too see

The kids are heading my way for the last time

As I headed back the kids passed, all heads down, no eye contact made, clearly aware that I knew what they had been doing. Sad no acknowledgment but maybe that's just that generation.

Dalwhinnie down below

Wind and rain accompanied my descent. The weather window opened a bit to give good views across to The Fara and over Dalwhinnie and the hills beyond.

Almost back when I met a guy starting out. Looking back, more blue skies, I commented he might just be getting the best of the weather. He said he hoped so as in the morning he had done a Graham at Newtonmore and in his own words ‘he was lucky to be here’. He had followed the Walkhighlands GPS route and found himself cragfast and just managed to get over it. I have also found that before by following a GPS route without thought can take you right onto a drop. A sobering reminder, hope he told the kids when he passed them. They had now slowed down and were a good bit behind me, presumably as they could see the cars.

Thrush

As I descended a large flock of thrush were on the ground and singly flew into the trees and pylon when I passed, exactly the same as yesterday. As I drove home another big group flew over so there must be a big arrival from Europe. Apart from them, just like yesterday wildlife non existent.

It is not often that a Munro can be tagged as non descript but that is what this pair are. That's not to say the walk was not enjoyable but it did not feel like Munro bagging.

A super weekend with five new Munros and a Graham. Time to rest that injury as a very busy period coming up.

Wildlife: Meadow pipits aplenty; Dunnock; large flock of thrush.

Distance: 19.14km

Ascent: 834m

Time: 4.41

The big fitness test.....Beinn a'Ghlo

Walk: Beinn a’ Ghlo….Carn Liath: Braigh Coire Chruinn-bhalgain; Carn nan Gabher

Type: Munro x 3

Height: 1239m

Well today was the big test for the Achilles the demanding full round of Beinn a’ Ghlo. I had been looking forward to this since it was cancelled last year.

Adam Watson , the ecologist and author described Beinn a’ Ghlo as one of the most beautiful and mysterious hills in Scotland. Not sure about the mysterious but I certainly go along with the beautiful part. The hill has 19 corries and it is said a rifle could be fired in any of them without being heard in another.

Obvious track up Carn Liath

A small group, social distancing if you can do such a thing on the hill set off. I had prepped them that I would decide after the 1^st Munro, Carn Liath, whether I would continue or descend by myself. Fair to say I was aware of it with every step so time would tell.

Plenty of cars already parked up early this morning, this was a busy place today.

A half hour walk in before we reached the wooden hut where the imposing landscape scarring track of Carn Liath is evident.
Initial problems my camera would not recognise the SD card, it did yesterday! Of course the spare is at the bottom of rucksack and it would not recognise it either so mobile phone pictures only today.

Even at the bottom levels they have been working on improving the track but it is on the slopes of Carn Liath where the work is evident, they have done a cracking job.

Looking down from Carn Liath track

The sky had got gloomier but it the major factor was the wind. Trying to put a jacket on about half way up was a major challenge in itself, body twisting and turning trying to find that second sleeve, what was it going to be like up top?

The track is great but care still required as easy to trip on the irregular stones that have been laid. Anyway an ascent of head down, plod on and take in the grand views. Before long the first summit is reached just after the cairn. Fabulous views particularly across Glen Tilt, easily one of my favourite glens.

View of Braigh (summit peaking out on right) from Carn Liath

Fitness wise I was feeling really good and the Achilles was no worse than when I started so decision made to head on.

Better view of ridge, Gabher hidden in cloud, not the hill on right that is it's spur.

The ridge ahead looks stunning as it meanders but the final and biggest Munro, Carn nan Gabher, looks a long way off and a lot higher.

Back the ridge to Carn Liath

Looking back to Carn Liath the ridge walk looks fantastic, one to remember.

The ridge meanders before descending to a bealach. Time for food as the next climb looks steep. A couple of runners pause briefly to chat to one of the group that they know, 4 hours is their target time, wow.

The reality for the next climb was that a good steady pace saw peak number two conquered. Really pleased with my hill fitness.

A steep grassy descent took us down to prepare for the final assault.

Now for number 3, Gabher

The weather had been coming and going but apart from one small shower we had escaped getting wet although the wind had not relented.

One of the 19 corries looking to the eastern Cairngorms

Another steady climb took us up to the summit plateau. The views are superb as you climb giving a good reason to take a breather and soak it all in. Walkers descending had all commented on how strong and chilling the wind was up there, great.

When you reach the first big cairn is this it, nope. Then the trig, nope. Yet another big cairn was further on, the top of Carn nan Gabher, an 1100+ Munro. This plateau was extremely rocky/stony and by far was the biggest test of my tendon. The walking was difficult, the stones moved, sore!

Very stony Carn nan Gabher summit

However the views were magnificent particularly of the eastern Cairngorms, no words or pictures can do this justice. Even The Lomond hills in Fife were clear.

Whilst the wind was fierce it was not as cold as indicated by the descenders.

In many ways the hard work had been done but this is a round that does not let you off easily. The cars are a long way away between 2-3 hours walking.

Boggy Glen, Carn Liath highest peak

The descent into the glen was straightforward but it did get very boggy at times before we crossed the burn onto a slightly better track which eventually became the restored track.

Before you jump for joy the height lays out the track ahead, surely that is not our route, of course it is.

The long walk out still an hour to go, looking back summit of Gabher is small peak behind the the spur on the right

Although it is an excellent track this was the hardest section for my tendon, the longer strides were obviously having an impact.

Still we got there and as you circular your first Munro of the day take stock on how good it was. One of the finest ridge walks in Scotland.

Processionary moth caterpillar, do not touch

A hard day but the company was excellent, lots of good chat and banter, brilliant views and a workout, exactly what a day on the hills should be.

A bit of pain and stiffness but hopefully an overnight rest and it will be good enough for the solo walk I have planned for tomorrow.

Wildlife: Meadow Pipit; Processionary moth caterpillar.

Distance: 23.2km

Ascent: 1615m

Time: 8.13