Five Westerly Fannichs but not without pain

Hill(s): Western Fannichs (5): A' Chailleach (997m), Sgurr Breac (999m), Sgurr nan Each (923m), Sgurr nan Clach Geala (1093m) and Meall a' Chrasgaidh (934m)
Category: Munro’s
Height: n/a
Today was a walk, that as a group of hills, not many will attempt and although successful it had its downside for me. Most people will tackle the first two and the last three as separate days but we went for the full walk, brave or stupid?
To be fair I knew beforehand that this was a beast of walk, the highest number of metres ascended in a day for me. The weather held good for the first two hills, began its deterioration mildly on hill 3 and was full on rain and wind for the last two.
A very small parking area just room for us before 9am.
From the start after the wooded walk we hit the moor where we initially gained good height. Although it looked steep and  intimidating a reasonable wet/boggy path takes you to the crest.

An Teallach and Loch a' Brahoin on the ascent

Now a very boggy plateau walk along Druim Reidh followed by a contour above Loch Toll an Lochain. 

A' Chailleach and Loch Toll an Lochain

This was a long section of boulder scree (this saps the legs) before reaching the bealach.
The worst of this route is that you have to climb A’ Chailleach and then come back down to the bealach. 

Looking back to ascent on right

However the views from the summit were superb across the peaks of Torridon, Fisherfield, Dearg and An Teallach amongst so much more.

View from A' Chailleach to Sgurr Breac (more Fannichs behind)

A great view of the route ahead (without the descent) as we upped and downed onto Sgurr Breac, Munro 2 done. 

The climb to Sgurr Breac

As we ascended a large herd of red deer were spotted in the distance, they were on its flanks, but not on our route.

The view from Sgurr Breac across to the bealach and yes a big drop first

We then began the long, very long descent down the flanks of Sgurr Breac with the ascent to the bealach for Sgurr nan Each right in our view, The upcoming ascent looking more intimidating with every step we descended. My GPS showed we descended circa 450m a lot.
Those only bagging the two Munro baggers can head back from here down a reasonable trail, I should have joined them.
After lunch we headed slowly up the pathless grassy slopes until reached the bealach, heavy plops of rain meant hoods up. I normally don’t eat before an ascent but I wanted to refuel and my breathing on this ascent paid the price of a full stomach.

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It was a relief to get to the bealach, turn right and follow the vague stony path up the winding ridge to Sgurr nan Each. This was where my problems started with agonising cramp in my left thigh/groin, wow what pain. I plodded on and the pain eased. More good views from the top but very bad weather now skirting us to the west.
Munro number 4, Sgurr nan Clach Geala, the highest summit of the day, looked more daunting from here than it really should.
Once again we had to backtrack to the bealach. As soon as the gradient kicked in so did my spasms/cramp, what was this I wondered as I have never had this before.

The gradient has eased to Sgurr nan Clach Geala

No option other to keep going, it was to be a long agonising trek back to the car.
Sgurr nan Clach Geala achieved and also the worst weather of the day kicked in. Heavy cold rain now on and off to the car. A nice ridge to descend, some steep drops but no snaps in the rain.

Meall a' Chrasgaidh ahead

The cramping was not kicking in on the descent but as soon as the slopes of number five began so did the pain. Cut a long story short the summit of Meall a’ Chrasgaidh was reached. The car could be seen but a long way away.
This long grassy descent was very awkward, not at all pleasant and went on for ages. As did the track when we finally reached it. An endurance event for me, not fun now.
Overall I now know why people break these five into two lots, it was strenuous and my leg did not help things.
The downside of these spasms was that when back home I could not cross my legs without going into severe cramping/spasm. Sadly missed out the ‘easier’ day of the other four Munros to complete the Fannichs. However, they will still be here for another day.
Sad to hear that a walker had died today after being hit by lightning on The Mamores in that bad weather.
Wildlife: Red deer, dotterel, ptarmigan, raven, meadow pipit, dipper.
Time: 9.30hrs
Ascent: 1872m
Distance: 24.6km

This time a very grey day back in the Grey Corries

Hill: Stob Ban Grey Corries
Category: Munro
Height: 981m

Despite the weather forecast being grim we opted to head back to the Grey Corries for this Munro.

Gloomy start

The slight downside with this hill is the very long walk in (and back), which, as we had some slower walkers, meant almost two hours to the bothy.

Cruach Innes on the left saw a couple heading up its flanks as we passed

To be fair it did not feel like that long as it is a pleasant walk along a hard packed trail. Sadly the low lying clouds took away much of the potential view sbut the Corbetts on our left looked imposing in this light. The glen terrain looked perfect for cuckoo’s but never heard or seen them. Too wet and cold so probably done the business and headed back to Africa! Left the upbringing to the pipits we saw.

Welcome bothy

The rain was getting heavier as we arrived at the bothy, time for a quick snack. The bothy is in excellent condition.

Looks calm but the burn was flowing fast

The outgoing burn crossing was better for some than others with the higher water line but the rocks helped. The ‘bridge’ further up is broken, angled and not worth thinking about.
We turned off at the small cairn and followed the track under the crags and climbed following the burn, there is one particularly bad step where the track is eroded (ie non existent) but for the main part this was a very wet and very boggy ascent/descent.

The only brief glimpse we got of Stob Ban

For a short while the track disappeared and we went back to low visibility navigation but thankfully found it again. A ptarmigan appeared out of the gloom and soon after we sprung a pair of red grouse.

Stob Ban from the ridge the other day

The rain got heavier, the visibility got poorer but we followed the zig zag stony trail to the top. 
Thankfully I had looked down on it a few days ago in good weather so I knew the views and landscape but felt sorry for the others.

Brief glimpse of the top of Sgurr Innse on the descent

Wind and rain stronger so back down the same route for a while. We bypassed where we lost the route earlier and took a different and steeper track on the descent. Lots of angled wet rock and muddy eroded sides so not easy. I reckon this track  leads to the ruined bridge and was the original track. However, near the bottom of the descent we cut over and rejoined the original track.

Burn and path cross at the bothy

The rain had slightly altered the burn crossing. It had widened and was running faster but not too much deeper so we all got across with varying degrees of wet feet.
Thankfully back at the bothy once more for shelter and food.
Then the final four mile walk back to the cars in the rain.
Two field hares decided to join us for a trip down the rutted path. A nice end to a good walk despite the weather.

Wildlife: Meadow Pipit, Ptarmigan, Red Grouse, Field Hares
Time: 7.07
Ascent: 977m
Distance: 21.3km

Scaling the Aonach's the cheats way

Hill: Aonach Mor (1221m) & Aonach Beag (1234)
Category: Munro

Today was jestingly called our rest day as we were only doing two Munros with over 800m of climbing. And sad to say we did them with assistance, not all shoe leather effort. The gondola ride took us a long way up the hill (650m). It was a pleasant and relaxed way to go up a hill, except when it stopped a few times swaying in the breeze, along with excellent views. These hills are in the top ten of the highest Munros. 

Steep start

Still, despite the initial aid this was not straightforward. The uphill climb from the gondola station, up the steep grassy slopes was rather gruelling. No doubt yesterdays big efforts were still in the legs so a bit laboured.
Relief to get onto the ridge and we could now see the route ahead but our labours were not over.

Fort William

The views over Lochaber and district already outstanding. Along Loch Eil the eye finds Rum & from a later angle Eigg. Angle around Little & Ben Wyvis in the distance.

This is a broad plateau with warning/danger signs, easy to walk off the edge in bad weather. But no danger today in this clear visibility. Superb views as you would expect.

Aonach Mor plateau and cairn ahead 

Just under 2 hours from the start we reached the cairn of Aonach Mor. On one side fantastic clear views over yesterdays Grey Corries ridge circuit. On the other the CMD and Ben Nevis clear of cloud. Views all the way out to Rum.

Beag top in distance from Mor

On our way to Aonach Beag, which from here looks much higher than where we are standing, but is in fact only higher by 13 metres. Funny how distance and panorama plays tricks with your perspective. Our forebearers named these hills after their bulk not their height.

Aonach Beag

A gentle descent and the grass was over. Now it is a rocky scree path to half scramble, half walk up. There are various routes, just pick the one for you and before long the second top has been reached.

View to the Grey Corries

Another wide flat top and time to take in the superb close ups views of the westerly Mamores, Glencoe hills and much more.

CMD ridge behind

Quite a few walkers spotted going up the Ben via the CMD arête, would love to do that one day.

Ben Nevis & CMD in foreground 

There were weather fronts bypassing by so lucky us. Ben Nevis summit was now in cloud, bad news for the late starters.

Return back up the bulk of Mor

A return by the same route with the steep grassy descent, easy on the feet but challenging the knees, a bit painful.
Back at the gondola station and time for well deserved coffee and cake. 
The MTB World cup is taking place this weekend so great views from the gondola of the course being laid out. The forecast does not look great for them, sad.
Another great day in great company and Scotland at its best.

Wildlife: zilch
Time: 4.51
Ascent: 886m (2906ft)
Distance: 10.4km (6.25m)

Anything but a grey day on the Grey Corries

The Grey Corries ridge

Hill: Stob Choire Claurigh (1177m) & Stob Coire an Laoigh (1116m)
Category: Munros

Day 3 and another outstanding day on the hills. Today we walked what many consider to be the ‘Best Ridge Walk in the Central Highlands’. Who am I to argue, it was a superb high level walk with views to die for.

Wee Minister

We parked up at the normal place at Coirechollie after the pot holed rough track that passes the farm. Glad we did as the out walk was long enough.

A short walk up a good track, through the woodland reaching the Wee Minister.

(About Lochaber: You are soon welcomed by the outstretched hand of The Wee Minister, who is accompanied by a plaque and a donation box. According to the plaque, the wooden replica replaces stone a statue dating from the 1900s, and is that of the Reverend John McIntosh. However, local opinion is that the statue more likely to be that Dr. Thomas Chalmers who was the first Moderator of the local Free Church of Scotland. The statue was a gift and originally erected in 1886 in the manse garden of the Moderator John McIntosh in Achintore Road, Fort William.

The statue was removed by the wife of John McIntosh when he was away during the First World War and relocated to the church grounds above Monzie Square in Fort William. It remained there until 1968 from whence it was removed to Glen Spean, where it quickly became a local attraction. The statue and was thought to bring good luck to climbers and walkers alike on their route to the Grey Corries. Unfortunately, the stone statue began to disintegrate and was eventually removed in the 1970s. The statue was resurrected in May 2010 by the Glen Spean and Great Glen Tourism Marketing Group as a wooden replica with a donation box for the Lochaber Mountain Rescue).

Before reaching a gate then a sharp right hander and the climb begins. Although we are heading for the 15th highest Munro this very long grassy ascent is pretty good going. Still lots of heavy breathing and sweat but good. Damp ground nearly stood on a frog. A Jay leaves the trees but minimal wildlife observed today.

Go right then flank left and up and up...

Strike for the skyline was our war cry but there were lots of false promises today, skyline after skyline. Until one looked like a stone top, the ridge proper, hopefully Stob Coire Gaibhre.

Plateau reached ridge in full view

Indeed it was, great views of our journey ahead but still a long way until even Munro one.

The going was now intermittent patches of grass but mostly boulder terrain, not the easiest walking but the panorama outstanding. Concentration required again to avoid twisted ankles or worse.

Watch your step

Deep gulley’s alongside as we made our way onwards and upwards. We even had our lunch before climbing the first top (Claurigh), lunch ended quickly by a flurry of snow.

Stob Coire Claurigh ahead

A short scramble, yes hands on, to the top and the whole ridge opened up to us. What a sight. 

The ridge, The Aonach's and Ben Nevis

Eyes drawn immediately to the route ahead but a good look around has many peaks in view from distant Schiehallion and the Lawers range to closer by the Mamores and Glencoe as well as Ben Nevis and the Aonach ridge, spectacular.

The two figures give scale to the snap

The ridge is a brilliant walk on a day like this, plenty of tops, never dropping under 1000m, take our time enjoy the day and the views.

Castail crags 

Castail was impressive, the crags look like an ice climbers winter practice area, before climbing our last Munro (Laoigh). 

The ridge back from Stob Coire an Laoigh

A rocky descent then ascent takes us back up to the 1000m mark on Beinn na Socaich, our last top today.

The way down, a long way down

We then started the long descent along the grassy ridge before dropping unto more rough tussocky terrain before we hit a deer fence. Here the fun began. The Walkhighlands route does not mention this fence. There was a gate, beyond which, was a deforested zone, the woodland mentioned had gone!!

We eventually followed the fence down to the dam but water to deep to cross. Went further back upstream where we were able to stone hop and wade across. If this was in spate? (Having reread Storers description this water crossing is included as the route).

Derelict Puggy Line

This side joined up with the mapped route but it was a long walk back to the car. Amused by stumbling across this abandoned rail track, the Puggy line. 
(Patrick Howat: ""The term Puggy Line is used in the Fort William area, although it strictly belonged to the Pier Railway, for it was only on that line that 'pugs' - a Scottish colloquial name for small steam locomotives - were used in the days of the british Aluminium Co Ltd to transport workers and goods re the aliminium smelter. The fact that a narrow guage railway system totalling about 26 miles existed in a highly scenic area of the west of Scotland comes as a great surprise to many. Many sections of the railway track have now been removed).

A fantastic walk across a superb ridge on a great day with great company, its up there with as good as it gets.

Wildlife: Jay, Skylark, Frog
Time: 8.10
Ascent: 1405m
Distance: 19.7km

An Sgurr a magical trip to Eigg

Hill: An Sgurr, Eigg
Category: Sub2000/Marilyn
Height: 393m

It’s always rewarding to complete a To Do list item. Day two of our trip and a walk that I have wanted to do since I sailed past it a couple of years ago. From the sea this cliff formation looks very impressive and an unlikely scalp for a hill walker but indeed it can be done.

View from ferry as we get close

A long day started with a drive from Fort William to Mallaig then the Calmac ferry to the Small isle of Eigg, a waiting list to get on, but we all did. When I put this forward as a proposed route for the club week I had not anticipated how popular it would be although a few just came for the island and not the An Sgurr.

Sun comes out on Eigg

What a day and it did not disappoint. A magical island on a sun kissed day with views to die for. 
Disembarking at Eigg a golden eagle could be seen circling the top of An Sgurr, what a start.
The ferry had also offloaded a lot of bikers so the initial walking section was through the woods, smelling of aromatic wild garlic, and dodging the bikes as they came past.

Looking impressive 'are we going up there'?

When we broke out of the woods at Galmisdale the Sgurr was a mighty impressive lava stack sitting behind.
I almost blotted my copybook by missing the turn off as we blindly followed the bikers on the Gruilin trail. Thankfully I realised quickly, a short turnaround and there was the cairn cut off.

Intimidating

The path is well trodden, muddy and wet in parts but overall in good condition. The Sgurr looking more impressive as you get closer. The Sgurr was a lava flow from a volcano on Rum, an intimidating mass of rock as we now stand beside and below it.

Rum

Thankfully the trail travels along the side before rising up giving magnificent views of Rum. Looking so close that you could touch it.

Muck

Turning back on ourselves the island of Muck so clear, but far below. The Western Isles are in view along with many other points including The Dutchman’s Cap and Ardnamurchan lighthouse.
The group had been ‘ooing’ and ‘aahing’ as the various outstanding views unfolded, everyone on track a good sign.

Final track

A short scramble up the sharp lava to reach the final side trail that leads to the round trig. What a fantastic place to have lunch and take in all the views.

Trig with the Singing Sands behind

Back to the mainland, name the peaks? Skye name the peaks? Magnificent.
On the top the views given depth by the sheer drops, not a place to go to close to the edge on a windy day trying to get that better camera shot.
Stand at the nose and look back to the terminal, group snap, then we about turned and went back the same route to the terminal.

Community stone

Early so time to enjoy the beer and home baking at the café. Some opting for ice creams and some even taking a paddle in the turquoise waters on a sunny afternoon.
A superb day and a walk that I hope I never forget. An enchanting a magical Scottish island, if only all days could be like this.

Wildlife: Golden Eagle, Buzzard, Cuckoo, Swallow, House Martin, Meadow Pipit, Manx Shearwater, Razorbill, Gannet, Black Guillemot, Minke Whale,
Time: 3.24
Ascent: 1587f (438)
Distance: 5.65m (9.3k)

A dreich but fun day in Glen Nevis

Walk: Glen Nevis & Polldubh Falls
Category: n/a
Height: n/a

My first day in Fort William for the ADRC’s walking week was meant to be a strenuous double Munro stint but with the foul weather it was cancelled so I joined the groups low level outing. The walk was around Glen Nevis with the Polldubh falls a highlight.

Umbrellas to the fore

The walk started and finished at the Youth Hostel where most were staying. It’s not often I have been for a group hill walk and seen so many umbrellas lol.

Not quite Everest but a fence blockage

And yes, as per forecast, it was tipping down. In addition with the weather on the outward route, the straightforward path was anything but. I lost count of the number of fast flowing streams that we had to cross, wade or jump. 

Wide wade

And throw in a few barbed wire fences to get over, a bit of an obstacle course outing in the wet.

Obstacle course

Crossing the footbridge over the River Nevis the water below was raging, running deep and fast.

Walk the plank

We then followed the very muddy path along the river upstream to Polldubh where the Falls were spectacular. 

Polldubh falls

A raging torrent of fast brown water and what a noise. Just shows how much rain there has been.

Quick break

Then we crossed over the bridge and continued for a short while along the road till we reach Achriabhach cottage. 

Discussing the brolly pro's and con's

We turned left onto a forestry track which we followed all the way down the glen. We continue along the track until we reach the path signed Glen Nevis Visitor Centre. 

Deforestation everywhere

From here we followed the path along the river bank back to where we started at the Youth Hostel.
A fun walk on a very wet day, the company and the banter made it.

Wildlife: Buzzard, raven.
Time: 4.2
Ascent: 820ft
Distance: 8.49