Finally Scotland's most iconic long distance pass.....Lairig Ghru

Walk: Lairig Ghru (Forbidden or gloomy pass)

This has been on my must do list for as long as I have been interested in hillwalking but the logistics never seemed to come together. It is probably the most best known mountain pass in Scotland and probably Britain. This is a vast area with the walk splitting huge mountains, the slopes of 3 of the 4 highest in Scotland included. Ralph Storer says ‘Its scale has to be seen to be appreciated. For grandeur and variety of scenery it is without equal’. Fully endorsed.

This year I decided it was now or never and that I would do it solo, starting in Braemar and staying in Aviemore afterwards or getting the good lady to drive me back. But when doing my research I came across a firm called Hillgoers who started the direction I wanted to go from at the Braemar side but more importantly had a mini bus to run you back to Braemar. Sorted, some company and a lift, well worth the money. The walk has no escape routes if the weather turns bad or an accident happens, all adds to the pre-walk tension. Walking from this direction means a gentler but longer ascent to the high pointat the Pools of Dee.

I had cadged a lift to the start at Linn of Dee. Bumped into Ben Dolphin and reminisced about a walk we did together when he was Ramblers president.

The weather was to be warmer than I would have liked, well laden with liquid but as I found out there were some streams to fill up en route. A motley crew we were, introductions made and off we went.

I had walked the start section before with ADRC when we did the Munro of Carn a’Mhaim. Initially it seemed different I think because we visited the river to see the falls, before memory returned when we rejoined the main track to the abandoned Derry Lodge. Glen Luibeg & Glen Lui alongside Scots Pine, moor and bubbling streams. Really weird I said aloud that I would have expected to hear a cuckoo today and in less than 10 seconds one started calling. We all burst out laughing, as it turned out the only one heard today.

All went well until we reached the river crossing which was running quite high. The group split a couple crossing whilst the rest of us walked up to the bridge crossing adding an extra kilometer or more walking in the already hot day.

I was first across the bridge to be greeted by a very attractive young lady skinny dipping. When she realised a party was coming through it was a quick exit to put on knickers and a top, her partner just smiled and shrugged his shoulders.

Bypassing the Munro we were now on the Lairig proper. We wound our way round the mountain track until Corrour Bothy came into view. Located below the Devils Penis (Point) it has an impressive backdrop but your eye is also aware of the long trail heading along Glen Dee towards the giant slopes of Cairn Toul on the left and Ben Macdui on the right, as rugged terrain as you will get any where in Scotland. The eye is led by that trail winding ahead but there is also the knowledge of what is round the corner, still only about a third into the walk.

I had no illusions regarding the roughness of the terrain on the so called path but even so it surprised me. It was full on concentration to avoid tripping and sadly at times the views were ignored as the path was the focus and indeed that remained so for most of the walk. When we stopped and looked around it was ruggedly breathtaking. There are constant rock landslips to remind you that this is an active landscape. Indeed at one point we heard a noise and looked up and a large boulder was rolling down a patch of snow leaving a firm trail, it was a heavy one.

Porridge corrie

An Garbe Choire

The area of the one of the great corries, An Garbe Choire (The rough corrie) and spectacularly rough it is, still quite a bit of snow around. ‘Porridge’ corrie is equally impressive. Some cattle fell from the top through a cornice and smashed up quite a bit hence the name.

The watershed at this spot is where the falls come down off Braeriach and Macdui and is as impressive as the corrie. Although the Dee’s source starts on the Braeriach plateau many regard this as the start as it is also joined by the water from the Pools of Dee. A good spot to pour water over my head and refill. It was very humid but at times a strong chilling breeze blew into our backs, nice relief and better than blowing in your face.

Boulder field beckons

Then the boulder field(s) came into view. We chatted with the occasional walker(s) that we met before this and they all called the boulder field long and arduous. Our guide

George said it was 5 minutes. The reality was much nearer George's view as indeed there is a track which makes it easier, not easy, but with hindsight is probably easy to lose if coming from the north thus enduring a much longer and harder boulder field crossing. There are possibly 3 different sections of boulders but our first is the most awkward if that track is missed.

There are 3 or 4 Pools of Dee, some vibrant green, a contrast to the stony slopes and a beautiful spot to take another short break.

Lurchers gully now showing impressively to the right in distance. I had in my mind this was much closer to the finish, walk ending soon, no chance.

Lurchers Gully

Still 3 hours to go but now downhill all the way

Then we reached the highest point of the Lairig with views of Aviemore beyond. The views forward and back, superb. Checked the GPS and we have covered exactly 20km. It might be all downhill from here but it is still at least another 10km, more as it turned out. Another 3 hours of walking.

It was a weird day as I tripped twice on the descent from here, nothing hurt other than pride. Tiredness, lack of concentration I don't know but it happened.

As it turned out it was 3 hours from that cairn and although the Caledonian pine Forrest is unique and grand viewing, particularly on the higher descent, the truth is that we just wanted the walk over. The chatter had reduced, a good pace was being kept. The Cairngorm Club footbridge was a welcome sight, finally getting there.

Another part of the weird day was I cannot remember that last time I had a blister. But twice I had to remove stones and grit from my right boot and with about 1km to go I knew I had a bad blister forming, it was very sore. So stopped and Compeed applied to try to minimise the damage but it did not really improve, it was a slow painful hobble back to Coylumbridge.

Another part of the weird day was I cannot remember that last time I had a blister. But twice I had to remove stones and grit from my right boot and with about 1km to go I knew I had a bad blister forming, it was very sore. So stopped and Compeed applied to try to minimise the damage but it did not really improve, it was a slow painful hobble back to Coylumbridge.

No doubt that this was an incredible day out with outstanding views and exceeded my expectations. But it was also a very demanding long walk, very hard on the feet, testing my physical and mental capacity.

Ambition achieved, glad I did it but a repeat, I don't think so, at least not in the short term.

Ascent: 811m

Distance: 32.9km

Time: 10.21

Wildlife: Meadow pipit; Willow warbler; Common Sandpiper; Ring Ouzel (heard); Cuckoo (heard)

One hundred up in all categories and what a bonus .....Beinn Bheag (Cowal)

Hill: Beinn Bheag (Cowal) (Little mountain)

Type: Fiona

Height: 618m

I was fingertips away with only 1 hill left to achieve my walking target of at least 100 hills in each category. My last bag had to be a Fiona/Graham hill. I had four options that I wanted to climb on my to-do list but all meant a bit of a travel. The forecast for the next couple of days had improved so I decided to get the target out of my mind and get something climbed.

There were some up Crianlarich area but I decided to keep it reasonably local and do one of my remaining Cowal ones.

So up early, excited and off to the ferry. Lengthy roadworks meant that as I arrived I just missed a ferry as it pulled away, bit hacked off but at least 1^st car on the next one.

This hill can be added on to Cowal’s biggest hill, Beinn Mhor, which I did earlier in the year but for me it was too tough and a logistical problem. But as a single hill it had promise. Walkhighlands describes it is an outpost of Beinn Ruadh which is a bit odd as a loch separates them and Beinn Mhor is its walking partner, but I am no geologist, so just climb it.

Apart from linking with Beinn Mhor there are a few other options but by far this one was the most appealing for me.

Parked at Glenbrantner to spot signs that a number of routes were closed due to ‘road repairs’. This is an area of massive forestry workings but private vehicles, I don't think so.

My arty photo of the day from the starting point

So it was that hopefully my ramble began, if I was to be caught up by this stop notice I would no doubt find out.

3 mile road with another Fiona, Creag Tharsuinn, pointed one ahead

As the farm is neared there are three track options, today I wanted the middle one. To start it is just under a 3 mile walk up a hard packed forestry road as wide as my street. The trees don't hem in initially so decent views for about a mile. Soon after I spotted a shape on the track, slightly round a bend. It had also spotted me, a red deer hind enjoying the grass verges, who looked disdainfully at me before elegantly walked back into the trees.

U bend and memorable moment coming up

I reached the third cut off to the left after almost an hour and now the climbing started, initially still on a forest road.

Then my magic moment. I was watching my footing when I spotted movement ahead. About 20 yards away, crossing the road was a Pine Martin. It wasn't hurried, it casually walked from the trees on my right to the left. I have never had a verified sighting so it was one of my last bucket list wildlife items. It appeared bigger than I imagined with a full lush brown coat. By the time I got my camera out it had gone. I walked to the spot and looked into the dense trees but no chance, probably up a tree looking at me. Still whatever happened that was my day made.

I was now at the 3 roads junction and according to reports there should be a short cut, a grassy track and there it was, overgrown but it was there, what would it be like higher?

A lot boggier than it looks

Opens out at times

I decided to follow it and it got me to where I wanted to be. It is overgrown and very wet and/or boggy in stages. At times a judgement call is required as to where the path goes, but instinct took over and did not let me down.

It was steady climbing and I could see with the light that I was about to break the treeline but just before I did I met the inevitable storm tree destruction blocking the path. An easy but muddy bypass. Interestingly from the prints in the mud the deer used this bypass too.

That was the easy bit of the ramble over, the path ends and the final ascent begins.

The top was circa 200m of ascent from here and I had a read a previous report that it was straightforward. Looking from here I could see that whilst it was not going to be overly difficult it was not going to be straightforward.

The early sections were very steep, wet and boggy. Streams running everywhere including many hidden water sections deep cut and hidden by the long grass.

That final lump is the top

After that the amount of cotton grass indicated how wet the remainder of the ascent would be. Some very steep short but all hands on sections along with solid deer grass clumps, not quite full on Dumfries & Galloway tussocks but still the new boys on the block, a bit of attitude.

I found some old iron fence posts which I followed for a bit but I found a slightly less direct ascent, still wet and boggy.

Finally I reached the top section, quite dramatic fall offs to my left so carefully with the satrong winds headed to the highest outcrop. A typical Fiona/Graham nothing to recognize the top. The trig is on the Graham Top, over towards Cruach Bhudhie, I could see it but the top is unnamed on my map.

Loch Eck and I think Ben Lui in the distance

The summit is the crag on right, Beinn Mhor on its left

Looking over Creag Tharsuinn to the Paps of Jura

The views were really much better than they should have been for this time of year. I could see long distances due to the clod clear air, haw’d on a minute this is June it should be short distance hazy views. Still it was a gift worth taking, quite spectacular 360 degree views. Looking from here the climb/descent/reascent to Beinn Mhor looked very hard work, glad I stuck to my plan.

The descent back to the trees with Cruach Bhuidhe behind

After a lunch stop taking it all in, still cold winds, I simply retraced my steps and without any issues got back to the car.

For me it was a fantastic day as I had achieved my minimum 100 ascents in Munros, Corbetts, Fiona/Grahams, Sub2k’s and the full Donalds listing. I had great views but the Pine Martin will be the thing that sticks in my memory for many years to come.

Ascent: 635m

Distance: 15.3km

Time: 4.15

Wildlife: PINE MARTIN; Red Squirrel; Red deer hind; Gold ringed dragonfly; Willow Warbler; Coal Tit; Chaffinch; Wren; Chiffchaff;

In search of the stag.....Beinn Damh

Hill: Beinn Damh (Hill of the Stag)

Type: Corbett

Height: 903m

This was my 3^rd attempt to get to Stag hill, the last two opportunities being cancelled due to poor weather but today was to be much better. This is the most prominent of the hills situated on the south side of Loch Torridon.

I was joined on the walk today with a couple of walkers from the ADRC outing to Torridon.

View through the trees to Beinn Alligan where some of the group were today

Track took us to the low point of col

Suddenly the imposing bulk of Sgorr Ruadh comes into sight

The start is exactly the same as for my post on Beinn na h-Eaglaise so I will start this from the crossroads. Yesterday I went left so today it was the right fork. A good stalkers track took us towards the bealach. The upper section was badly eroded and not very pleasant. Still just over an hours walking saw us at the bealach where on arrival our view was immediately drawn to the Applecross massif, a huge mass of rock. The marine workings at Kishorn and further behind the peaks of Skye.

The corrie of Toll Ban we walked up its right ridge

Applecross hills and Loch Damh far below

There was an option to turn right for an hours detour to Beinn Bheag, apparently super views, but not for us today, eyes and legs only for the main target. Plus looking at it I suspect it would be more than an hour, a fine walk on its own right for another day.

The next climb took us round the side of the Toll Ban which has a very airy feel about with spectacular views steeply down to the blue waters of Loch Damh, not a place to slip over to your right.

Now just boulders and the odd track all the way up

A reprieve of sorts on a flattish section before the boulder field is hit. It is awkward scrappy walking and not at all my favourite. There are small cairns to give a guidance for the route but as we found on the descent they are all over the place, so many possible ways through the boulder field. From above we had spotted a track so the better walking would be higher up rounding the bottom of Creag na h-Iolaire.

Impressive dome top of Beinn Damh

After that fairly torrid section we reached the flatter top of the Beinn Damh ridge which comes with a view of the final climb to the true summit. The views had been outstanding all day and didn't stop here.

In my head I had this final section as a clear path but in reality it was anything but. It is not difficult but full concentration required as it is again large boulders involving hands at times, what path there was is stony scree, easy to slip and with the Corrie edge on your very near left side, it is steep and dramatic.

The top itself did not disappoint, there are 360 degree views of perfection. You love Scotland, no wonder quite magnificent. I suppose the question is what can’t you see as almost every local hill and many more in full view.

Two banded longhorn beetle

A superb viewpoint for lunch apart from the beasties that went for me, these weird things were all over me and I had no idea what they were. Turned out they are the infamous ‘two banded longhorn beetle’, there you go. Apparently they should be in oak woods but none of that up here but there were plenty of them around for sure.

Walkhighlands describes this walk as ‘a stunning introduction into the mountains of Torridon’, a pretty tough introduction I think.

Looking back the curving ridge to Creag na h-Iolaire is impressive

Looking down from near the bealach to the descent to the forest

The descent was again one of total concentration, too easy to twist an ankle, fall or trip. When we could we took in the views but getting back safely was the priority. More people were around the hill now, no way we were getting it to ourselves on a day like this.

Despite the good walk I was glad to finish, it was a bit longer than expected and my legs were feeling it. Overall delighted to get it done, not as spectacular a ridge as others I have walked but a fine hill nevertheless.

Ascent: 948m

Distance:

Time: 6.24

Wildlife: 12.51km

The Outer Hebrides high point.....An Clisham

 Hill: An Clisham (Rocky hill)

Type: Corbett

Height: 799m

On a short break to the stunning Outer Hebrides the good lady had graciously allowed me a free morning away from the tourist hotspots to get some solo walking done. I had a choice of a few Fionas/Grahams but the obvious decision, despite the drive back and forth from our digs, had to be the highest peak on the islands, the Corbett of An Clisham. I had watched Paul Murton ascend it recently on one of his repeat programmes, good enough for Paul good enough for me.

View from parking

I was away sharp and arrived at the empty parking area for 8.30 walking. It was a very cold morning, despite it being well into official Spring nobody had told the temperature gods, the NW wind very unseasonably. Indeed the next day snow was covering the tops of Northern Scotland and we had a hailstorm, not good but the oldies will say we have been here before.

As I changed I heard a Cuckoo calling, my first of the year. It sounded far away and did not repeat its call, was I mistaken? A check on the islands bird forum later and the first arrival had been recorded two days before. Good news but still to actually see one.

There is an option of a full day ridge walk which from the top looked quite spectacular. But today time and logistics meant it was a straight up and down, maybe another day.

Kitted up and looked at my GPS to find I had not loaded the walk before we left for the trip. Luckily visibility was fine so I was not backing off.

As per descriptions I followed the south bank of the burn although from the parking area the right looks the more trodden but it really makes no difference.

The initial section is described as boggy which is a kind description, possibly the recent heavy rains have made it worse but gloop fest it was.

A disappearing golden eagle

Towards the top of the burn I got some movement in my peripheral vision and was delighted to see a pair of golden eagles. Not for long as a pair of ravens dived down from Clisham, harassed them a bit before the eagles slowed spiralled upwards to disappear high above me.

Looking back spotting cars

The path had disappeared only to be found again near the top but in reality it did not matter as the going was not difficult. There are plenty of crags but they are small and easily avoided. Line of sight let me follow grassy rakes between the boulders with only some minor scrambling. About half way up I looked back and saw another car arriving at the parking area, so not a solo hill after all.

Rough but straightforward

Great views to South Harris and the Uists

Wide view

The final section was much more rocky and did involve more scrambling. I could hear a very loud call of an eagle. I reckon it was on the other side of the boulders but I could not safely get over to look, I have never heard a raptor so loud and so nearby.

Summit cairn ahead

Finally the summit, a trig point surrounded by a circular cairn. But, just along the ridge is a more normal cairn. Just to be sure I wandered along and it is a good view point but I reckon it is more of a marker for those doing the full ridge walk.

The ridge in the sun

Slightly hazy but overall excellent views and well worth the reasonably short effort. Looking west the odd stretches of golden sandy beaches and blue water highlighted the beauty of this area.

Way down

Boggy section before the road

Took more or less the same route down. But the descent was much more focused as lots of muddy sections alongside scree sections gave good odds of a mishap if care note taken.

I met two groups of walkers, stopped and had a brief chat with them, all English voices.

Flat boggy section seemed even more boggy this time around and before long I was back at the car. Not warm but not as cold as the start.

Delighted to get another Corbett done a bonus that it was the high point of Lewis & Harris. Time to get the good lady and more tourist stuff.

Ascent: 662m

Distance: 6.01km

Time: 3.21

Wildlife: Golden Eagle (pair); Meadow Pipit; Raven (pair); Cuckoo (heard)