Creag Bheag not quite the runt of the litter

When you look up at Creag Bheag from Kingussie your immediate reaction would be to look at the map for something higher meaning better. It does not impress, it is not love at first sight, it looks like the runt of the litter, the ugly duckling. But dismiss this hill and you are going to miss some really fab views for little effort. Pick the right one as the OS map has a few hills of the same name in close proximity.

Creag Bheag & Loch Gynack

I was looking for a quick hit, whilst the good lady walked over to Ruthven barracks, and yet again the book ‘The Hughs’ provided another gem.
Definitely cooler than yesterday and the Cairngorms had a new dusting of snow. Forecast was for the odd shower in the morning, grey but okay.
We parked in the Ardvonie car park which is free. There are toilets for a 20p charge but one guy tried them and walked away, maybe too early.
I opted to walk from the left side of the car park (beside the loos), clockwise but it is a circuit and the anti clockwise is a bit more climbing effort if you want that, and followed the western road for almost three quarters of a mile.

Camera would not focus in time

It is a tarmac road with a lot of stunning traditional properties and the bonus of a red squirrel which was obviously used to people as it did not flee to far. Mrs B ecstatic that she got up early to see it.

We parted and I headed up the easy to follow track through a wooded area with sheep grazing, keeping a wary eye for my nemesis hill cattle but none to be seen. One buzzard came silently out of the woods to my right closely followed by a second. They quickly disappeared but I could hear their call along with the crows no doubt mobbing them.

Not long at all and you see crags and a bench. Looking back it is a grand view to Newtonmore. Just after you meet the more direct track from the car park and continue up the good stony track, quite muddy to the sides but no issue today.
I am approaching the summit when I spot a bird above, at first I thought it was one of the buzzards but even better a single golden eagle. I watched it make slow circles, at one point it closed in and the feet dropped, mighty talons showing clearly, and I thought a prey dive was on but no it just continued to circle on a thermal, climbing higher and higher until I could see it no more disappearing into the interior of the Monadhliath range. Still that was good.
Far to my right I spot a flash of yellow, focus and two climbers are about to abseil, yellow helmet goes first, then they are gone.

Nearing the top I can see that there are two cairns. I went first to the one on the right which I think was the top cairn but just in case walked across to the other.

Cairn with Kingussie below

All in just 48 minutes from the car park to here and what views. A full 360 degree perspective. This is a spot to spend some time. The wind was cold and I spot another walker at another cairn over to my right. I walk on but as I approach he walks away, strange but obviously wanted no company not even a chat.

Handy windbreak

It turned out that the structure was a stone wind break very welcome as its angle today was full protection. Time to sit, have a drink and an orange and simply enjoy the view. Despite the greyness of the day you still can’t beat it.
The track down is well looked after, constructed with large stones. Mrs B’s knees would have felt it but for me it was good.

The tracks on Carn an Fhreiceadain

I have a clear view of tomorrows destination, Carn an Fhreiceadain along with its other outlying summit Beinn Bhreac. However the massive tracks up and down both hills are not pretty on the eye.

On the descent North Gynack path to Newtonmore can be seen

Loch Gynack is below but not a fisherman in sight, the water looks pretty choppy from up here.
Once down I follow the trail and cross the golf course, narrowly avoiding a genuinely miss hit drive, and wander down the road to Kingussie.

Profile of Craig Bheag from golf course taken in Autumn

A couple of hours gets you up and down at a leisurely pace.  3.9 miles, 248 metres climbed. Magnificent views which would be even better on a clear sky day but nevertheless very well worth doing. Not at all an ugly duckling.

Cairnsmore of Dee (Black Craig of Dee)

Today was my first outing with Ayr rambling club and very enjoyable it was, a great little hill with challenging terrain, blue skies, superb views and good company, a good day.
There are three hills in the Galloway area with the title Cairnsmore. I have already climbed Carsphain and Fleet so I was glad to add the third. Cairnsmore of Dee is classed as a sub 2000 at 493 metres. The names in this area are fabulous and I believe that Dee is part of the 'Rig of Craig Gilbert'. It is also another hill from the book 'The Hughes'.

View from parking area

We parked just up from the main carpark at Clatteringshaws loch, too mean to pay the £3 daily parking charge. As it turned out the machines were out of order, a free parking day!! There is a cafe and toilets here.

To begin with we took a slight detour to visit Bruces stone, another one? Actually commemorates Bruce's first victory over the English. Then retraced our steps and started our walk proper following the track just across the road from the visitor centre. The aerial mast on Benniguinea is your objective. Follow the forest track for a bit then the muddy track at the first junction until you rejoin the mast track. You can opt to stick to the track. When you break the trees there are good views looking back.

Easy going, gradually gaining height, until just before the mast plunge to the left into the heather, the track has disappeared. There is a cairn at the mast if you want to bag that. 

Benniguinea mast in distance

After a short but very rough walk across this stuff the destination is in sight, albeit still a fair bit to go.

Cairnsmore of Dee appears

There is no proper track and when you do find what you think is one it is very wet, muddy with boots sinking in deep gloop, glad the gaiters are on.
The terrain is typical of this area, deep tussocks, boogy ground, care needed or twisted ankles at best. The best route seems to be low down keeping close to the trees but your choice.

Looking back to Benniguinea

Once over the short descent look up at the hill and pick your route. As mentioned there are short stretches of 'trails' to follow quickly disappearing. New and wet moss clings lightly to large rock slabs, but beware they are eager to give way if you stand on them, another potential danger.

No false summits here once you are up you are there with the trig and cairn almost together. A small new cairn stands a bit away not sure for why. A couple of the ladies decide the height gained was not enough so onto the trig they clambered, good on you.

Mini cairn

The views over the Galloway range are superb, Clatteringshaws loch in view below, the Merrick straight ahead, Corserine to its right and Cairnsmore of Fleet at 8 o'clock.

After lunch in the sun, we simply follow the same route back although as an option the Hughs book describes a circular route. Once on the main track we met families lightly dressed in summer gear, t shirts etc looking at this bunch of loonies heavily clad wondering where we have been.

Very little wildlife about today, a pair of ravens, some meadow pipits but we did get a red kite as we drove out.
Distance walked 7.28 miles, with 483 metres of climbing.
I enjoyed it, glad I was there, better in than out.

Great Glen Way Laggan - Fort Augustus

After yesterday's hill efforts, Meall an t-Slamain, today's plan was to walk another stretch of the Great Glen Way.
A grey and wet morning was my vista from the hotel windows as I tucked into my breakfast. A damp walk through the equally bleak Fort William centre to the bus station. Why do the planners allow outer town shopping areas to have such a detrimental effect on the towns themselves, you have a lot to answer for.
A 30 minute ride on an under populated bus takes me to the Laggan swing bridge to continue my Great Glen journey.
As I crossed the main road taking the track towards the Great Glen Water Park the sun was coming out and the birds were singing, this is the life.

Invergarry station

The route follows the old railway line alongside Loch Oich so you cannot get lost, yet another of General Wade's roads, how many did he create? There is a project going on to restore Invergarry railway station in some form. A nice siding and a few old wagons but not sure what else is going to happen here apart from a static example of some kind, a museum maybe, but good luck to them.

The new hard packed track sits about 10 feet above the old track as described in Walkhighlands but essentially it is the same route. One issue for a walker is that the lower track was almost loch side and good views across the water. This higher track has an almost constant tree line between the walker and the water. Not an issue at this time of the year as few trees in leaf but at other times your view of the water might be quite limited.
There is evidence of lots of improvement work being carried out and a I even spot a tree with a bat roost sign, I presume they are all still tucked up inside the tree today. A red squirrel appears and I spend a few minutes watching it making its way through the trees, a smile on my face, such simple things make you feel better.

Spend some time and look across the water to the ruins of Invergarry castle and smile at the equally ruined boat on the banks. The castle has stacks of history, destroyed after Culloden, yet another one and think about the misery of that time, rich and poor alike. The boat was a tourist boat, just surprised the authorities have not forced a removal of the wreck.
Next, I come across a clearing that is used by the canoe trekkers for overnight stops. One bonus there are some modern composting toilets and the good news, they were unlocked. I did not need to explore this further.

Composite toilet

A bit further on the walk goes under an impressive stone railway bridge, it’s a loch on one side so where was it going and interestingly there are bat signs on this too.

Looking back down Loch Oich

Next point of interest is the renovation work at the Aberchalder road crossing, which is all noise and construction, so I quickly cross and back to the tranquillity. So quickly I forgot to snap the historic cantilever bridge over the River Oich. Loch Oich is now in the past and the route now follows the canal to Fort Augustus although the River Oich is still spotted frequently on your left hand side. 

Wide canal between Oich & Fort Augustus

At these locks there is a cracking lock keepers cottage where I spend some time talking to the owner. Tranquil he described it and with this rainbow behind you cannot disagree.

There were a lot of aircraft flying today both low and high level. I also spotted a couple of Chinook helicopters above a far hill, I wonder if an exercise is ongoing. I heard the roar and just pressed the shutter as these two flew past, no sound oppressors on these engines.

Whilst studying the river an angler appears through the trees, we have a good chat, the early salmon are running but not for him so far. I get the sad tale of the devastation the hydro works have caused to the salmon runs, or indeed lack of them. As we talk the orange breast of Mrs sparrow hawk lands in a tree right beside us before realising her mistake and swiftly flies away.

At Kytra lock, a beautiful spot indeed, a barge inn is docked, all shut up, I don’t know if this is its usual spot for walkers, water folk etc wanting drink and food, but none to be had for me, dig out another small pie.
My waterproof leggings have been on and off, dry now but the last few miles see a major temperature drop along with high winds. Still it is behind me and blows me along to the locks of Fort Augustus and my finish. These locks are identical to those at the start of the Way, Neptune’s staircase at Banavie. I had originally considered going further today onto Invermoriston but the change in weather and the knowledge that one of the infrequent buses back to Fort William was due in 15 minutes made my mind up to finish here for the day.

Fort Augustus 5 minutes prior to the storm

Whilst waiting for my bus (in the shelter out of the wind and rain) a tourist bus pulled up and deposited a lot of Italians, who in their fashionable dress and style, looked under whelmed with the heavy rain. Not wet enough to stop almost all of them lighting cigarettes. Double whammy for them, as my bus went over the canal I saw them all queuing up for the incorporated small boat loch cruise. In this wind and rain, happy memories of Scotland.
Despite or because of the mixture of wind, rain, sun and blue skies I enjoyed my walk.  Distance was 9.46 miles with minimal ascent. 3 and a half hours of splendid Scottish countryside, nowhere else I would really want to be.

Meall an t-Slamain

Slamain from Fort William

If there is a finer 360 degree perspective, for a hill of this size, anywhere in Scotland, then I have not yet been on it, point me in the right direction. The Hughs book strikes out yet again. Meall an t-Slamain is special. Indeed the views will outdo many a so called superior: Munro; Corbett; Graham; Donald etc. I know I was possibly lucky in that the air clarity was superb, the snow encrusted tops and the bursts of blue sky defined the beauty of Scotland but still I was there today and the views were magnificent. It is a rarely climbed hill in this area as it sits across the water from the great Ben and all the wonderful mountains that surround it.
I was based in Fort William and had the option of a short walk from the hotel to catch the 15 minute ferry across Loch Linnhe to the start of the walk.  My only issue was matching descent time with a ferry back, if like me when a walk is over so am I, no hanging about. So I decided to drive the Mallaig road then cut around Loch Eil and glad I did with this mornings moody perspective.
Beautiful.

Loch Eil

As I was driving I decided to start from the radio mast/view point Agro track at Achnaphubuil, only because it was the first point reached, rather than the conventional ferry start at Camusnagaul.

The start

There had been overnight snow and an ice warning, a cold day ahead? But soon after starting the walk I had already shed my mid layer and proceeded to sweat profusely all the way up to the radio mast. I had been blocked up all week so put it down to that rather than lack of fitness . Why sweating considering the temp gauge showed only 2 degrees at the start.

The track and the summit top right

The Agro track pulls you all the way to the radio mast at 290 metres. It is a man made track, not pretty but it gets you there. Don’t worry there is plenty of non track moorland ahead to keep the purists happy. The sun was directly in my eyes so limited looking up. Just as well as it is a steep pull so head down, just get on with it.

Once the mast is reached, stop and take in the views all around, enjoy in the knowledge that it gets even better.

From the small trig there are a couple of posts suggesting a track but you know it is really not there and after 100 yards or so just take some bearings and head across the moorland towards the summit. As always there are a few false summits to keep you interested, am I nearly there, no. 

The false markers

About 2/3rds of the way up the snow line is reached but the worst of it is on the northwest flanks so pick your way between the snow, the bogs and there is some good walking. I spot some fresh deer tracks and follow them for a bit before realising that unlike me they are not interested in a trig point so I leave them and readjust my direction. The walking poles go deep into some of the drifts, iced up streams to be avoided, but if care taken the walking is okay and different enough to be fun.

The humps to the summit

Finally after about 90 minutes I reach the top. There are about 3 small false cairns along the way. The views in every direction are just outstanding. The large peak away west can only be Ben More on Mull. Loch Eil and its hills stand out. Looking north the canal locks at Banavie and the Great Glen. And just across the loch Ben Nevis and all the hills, quite outstanding.

Ben Nevis and Fort William

I head back via the same route and about 5 minutes down I hear the fighters engines roar. Close by but where. I spot it down on Loch Eil then it turns and climbs and I think its heading right to me. Then it goes side on through the glen between me and the Corbett Stob Coire a’Chearcaill, the plane outlined below me, what a sight, what a noise, then it heads south climbing into the sky. Had I been on the summit the view would have been even better.

Cairn looking south

Soon after whilst picking my route descending I hear music, what, and two youngsters appear. T shirt clad, I know I was sweating on the way up but that is for youngsters only. Getting a chill just thinking about it.

Cairn looking over Loch Eil

A reasonably straightforward descent to the radio mast although take care, my foot did sink in a few times to ankle depth through the moss.
Another 10 minutes spent at the trig point taking in the wonderful view then back down the Agro track to the car.
Apart from one red grouse, a distant kestrel, a flight of geese and the deer tracks that was it for the wildlife today.
Ascent was 452 metres, distance 4.68 miles and time taken 3.18 hours ( you can spend a lot longer taking in the views). Well worth the effort, big style.

Loudon Hill Short but Sweet

View from the carpark

The typical recent weather of strong winds and heavy rain disrupted my plans today. I originally had planned to climb the Graham, Blackcraig Hill in Glen Afton, but looking at the MET office rain forecast I would be very wet and cold without seeing any decent views.

Desperate for a short morning walk I drove out to Dalry to revisit Loudon Hill, another volcanic plug, short climb with great views. It is also a Hugh, I am ticking these off from the book even if I have been up them before. Rain was off and on during the drive but when I caught sight of it I could see the top so good enough. The last time I walked from Dalry (see previous blog) but today it was to be simply the hill.

Bridge over the River Irvine

I parked the car at the standard carpark, windy but dry. I opted to do the circular route going south around the back of the hill then ascending to the summit. I did not have my walking poles with me but they would have been a good idea. At least there is a wooden bridge crossing the head of the River Irvine. The ground from then on was pretty muddy and where it was just earth very slippy. Along with a heavy leaf covering and hidden greasy rocks this was a lot more awkward than it should have been.
Looked up at the crags which are used for introductory rock climbing but nobody around today.

Slippy slopes

Around the back of the hill the track is leaf covered and I find these are also a cover for deep gloopy mud. Boots well covered in the brown stuff. Up the slope hands were needed to stop me sliding on the muddy surface, did not expect to be scrambling today. Breaking out to the grassy summit a hail shower greets my arrival. 

At the trig it has eased but still very strong blustery winds. Still, I took 10 minutes or so to take in the views which even today are superb, except for the enormous amount of wind turbines. Even pockets of blue sky around. Looking south east it looks grim, glad I didn't head that way. Not many places that you can get views like this after less than 30 minutes effort.
Another slippy slide back down and followed the track round the other side and back to the car park. 

Is it summer, no.

Actually there are now pure blue skies above, quite summer looking, if not feeling. A couple of minutes later back to grim grey. It is a dramatic little hill and does look like a granite stopper.

I spend some time at the information board and enjoying the Spirit of Scotland sculpture. This area is packed full of history with links to Robert the Bruce and William Wallace, Covenanters etc. Read all about it. Then the rain came on again and time to go home.
Just over an hour up and down, about 350 feet climbed, short and sweet and I feel better. Storm Doris coming in tonight!!