Ben Hiant Ardnamurchan

View of Ben Hiant from Kilchoan ferry

On our way to Ardnamurchan lighthouse last year we stopped at the viewpoint overlooking the beautiful white sandy beach, Camus nan Geall. Beautiful as it was, it was the golden eagle gliding across the slopes of the hill opposite that attracted me more and I knew I had to get to that top.
There was no time to climb it last year but a return trip to Ardnamurchan made it a goer. By coincidence we were staying on Mull first and the view from our lodge decking was of an impressive hill across the water, maps checked, guess what, fate sealed it was Ben Hiant (Holy hill).
Another coincidence is that it is also in the book ‘The Hughs’ of which I am using to discover different hills. A good and energetic walk is described by Andrew Dempster from sea level. But as the good lady was with me we were going via the tourist route as described in Walkhighlands starting from the high point on the B8007.

That is a cairn?

The start at the tiny cairn is a laugh as this is the cairn, I think it has had some storm or people damage. Two other couples we spoke to had not even identified it and started well down the road. However once spotted the trail is evident, if on the right path it is a clear follow all the way up.

First plateau

An immediate stiff pull up the hillside gets the breathing going and Mrs already doubting the wisdom of her decision. As we reach the first top section I say ‘look those people are on the summit‘, she knows better but it encourages her. Just stop and look around, great views to be had early on and particularly when Loch Sunart opens up.

Middle climb

It is not too difficult a walk, just a steady constant upwards ramble as the path kindly twists and turns around the steeper sections. The only danger were the very strong gusts of wind which were capable of unbalancing you.

Final section and summit

As we look down into the glen below, which is between us and Beinn na-h Urchrach, we spot about 20 plus red deer grazing. Then, as the herd moves more and more deer appear, mainly hinds and calves but the odd stag is spotted, and we count 50 plus at one point, a great sight.
At this point the views of the final section looked a bit daunting to Mrs B but the track remains good. One short scrambling section and then the track winds it way around the back of the hill and before you know it the trig is in sight.

Well worn section

During the final section the views are once again outstanding despite the low cloud and poor long visibility. Looking back down Loch Sunart, Resipole the highest close hill, looking across to Mull with Ben More shrouded in cloud as usual, through the binos I can even see the lodge we stayed in near Tobermory.

Over now looking to Kilchoan and the Calmac ferry from Tobermory is arriving, plus the Ardnamurchan white needle of the lighthouse can just be seen. The islands to the west are also just in view but on a clear day it would be even more spectacular, probably seeing as far as the Uists. Then a couple and dog surprisingly arrive at the trig from a different direction from our route and tell us they have followed the Hughs route. They also say it is the coldest day of their walking holiday and are not hanging about, we concur.

A gentle descent taking in as much of the view as you can, it is well worth it and no need to rush particularly for her knees, she has done well and enjoyed it. You can just see the people ahead of us as small dots to the right. The white strip of beach just visible.

Looking back at the trail and descent

Apart from the red deer and a raven that was it, no eagles to be seen again.
Ben Hiant is a Marilyn at 528 metres. From our starting point it was 1127ft or 344 metres of ascent. Distance walked was 3.01 miles and took us 1 hour 10 to the summit.

Loch Sunart and Morvern

Kilchoan

Another cracking hill with plenty of views to remember. Then it was off to the Natural history centre at Glenmore for coffee and cake, superb. Worth a visit for the unusual local crafted gifts, a lot of money can be spent, be warned!!

Early morning walk on Speinne Mor Mull

Hill profile from the west

An early start this morning as the weather forecast was predicting rain by lunchtime. I was awake early anyway with the dawn chorus and as such was at the start of the hill for around 7.30. Today’s objective another Marilyn on Mull, Speinne Mor.
Grey and overcast, but not cold, anyway full rain gear on in anticipation.
There is parking on the left immediately after the last loch but take care not to stick out, it also acts as a passing place.

Walk starts here

The fence and stile are immediately evident, go over and start following the track. This is clearly a well used hill from the number of footmarks dug into the muddy uphill track. The heads of the ferns are coming through, later in the year the track might disappear when they mature.
Overall there is no difficulty on this walk in today’s conditions but up top it is a very remote moor, so on a low cloud bad weather day it could get interesting, particularly on the summit plateau. This is a rather barren landscape. Not even sheep grazing to bring a farmer up. The only other person you are likely to encounter is another walker, but nobody at all around today. Still the positives, the sound of silence and isolation, apart from the sounds of wildlife and my breathing.

3 lochs plus S Airde Beinn

The stiff pull got my breathing going and the good views over the 3 lochs on my left kept me interested. Yesterdays walk S Airde Beinn is the high point. An early morning angler is rowing a boat out, he was not there when I returned, maybe caught his catch or too windy. A couple of meadow pipits were my only other companions.

Summit plus Loch Frisa

Once over the initial climb the terrain flattens out at Sron na Beinne Creagaich and you get your first view of the objective, it looks a long way away in this light. This section was generally good walking but still boggy in parts, enough to go ankle deep in mud at times. The weather has been remarkably dry so I can imagine that this would be very different after a wet spell.
There is still a good track to follow, you lose it at times but soon catch it again.
Loch Frisa is clear on your right, I was hoping to see one of its resident sea eagles but they were no doubt sitting on their nest waiting for the weather to improve.
A line of rusting fence poles gives another line to follow, particularly handy if the visibility was poor.

Final climb

Now cross the very small burn, Allt a Chiogaid, which flows from Lochan Dearg, of which you will get better views soon.

Open summit moorland

Another short uphill section continues until the ground levels off. Almost immediately there is a very small pile of stones where you turn left and follow the faint track, moving uphill across the hill. Don’t worry if you miss it, I did, saw it on the way back. Just head up towards the nearest high point and keep doing that. It is a teaser of a top, you keep thinking that you are there but the trig is still a good bit away.

Ferns out at trig

Finally I reach the stone shelter which circles the trig, 444 metres and it has taken me 1 hour 18 minutes. For a short time I have had the view down to Tobermory on my left. Sadly with the poor visibility I can only imagine the stunning 360 degree distance views that I would get on a clear day, not even Ben More could be seen. Just as I took my trig snap the pitter patter of rain began to hit my bare head.

Lochan Dearg

The return is by the same route but as always that is the time for me to take in the views and the landscape. On this bare moor I fully expected to see red deer but not one spotted until I was almost back down, grazing near the loch. A skylark rose and a grouse called but that was it.
A good view of the lochan but too far across that ground to explore.

Marsh orchid?

There were a couple of orchids that I spotted, one a pink base with deeper spots which I think is the early marsh version, happy to be corrected. The other pure white which I‘m told might be another early marsh variety. Then I came across this rock with the most amazing colours, what a sight, a pleasing end to the walk. Time for brunch.

Colourful rock

Glad to say the rain did not come to much but the long views remained poor.
Trip stats: Overall walking distance 5.68 miles (9.14k)
Time: 2 hours 42 minutes
Ascent: 1213 feet (370m).

S Airde Beinn A wee hill on a wet grey day

Woke up this morning in Mull and checked the BBC weather app. No rain this morning it showed, as I listened to the rain hitting the roof!! Checked the XC site which indicated showers all morning, correct.
So a small hill chosen as the good lady joining in.  S Airde Beinn, also known as ‘crater loch’. Only 5 minutes drive from our place so perfect.

Enter here

As described in Walkhighlands route we parked beside the ruined cottage. Geese honked on the opposite Loch Meadhoin, but not a day to be out on the loch fishing, the wind was whipping up the waves.
Earlier in the week it was summer shorts weather, today full raingear on.
Go through the gate and follow the obvious path. It is a small hill and has no difficulty for most. As the last month has been very dry the path was easy to walk but clear evidence that it can be a wet and boggy path.

Follow the path

Head for a fence ahead, go through and up the path following slightly left of centre. The peak is right in front of you. The faint right side track is the descent route but we did not use this, see later. A cuckoo calling lets Mrs B hear her first of the year. Some meadow pipits rise and a raven flies over looking for their nests.

Looking back

A brief climb and you are almost at the top, the water is in sight in the bowl of the volcano. Looking to your left there is a barren landscape but we spot 3 red deer sprinting across the moor, did we spook them?

First view of the crater

We are walking around the lochan in a clockwise direction. The first cairn is at 285m but the left flank is slightly higher at 295. The next cairn at the north is 292m on the OS map.

View from north

Despite it being a grey, wet day the views were teasers of what would be available on a clear day. The full 360 degrees throws up peaks in 3 directions, Ben More definitely, Ben Nevis a possibility. Coll & Tiree another certainty. Tobermory below, a Calmac ferry sailing through heading to Oban.

A hint of the view

Still it is surprising cold in the wind, the constant light rain just not letting up.
We went back over the first hill to get the last views rather than follow the lower path beside the forest edge. We get a close up of a flying cuckoo.
Despite the poor weather it was a good short walk that I would highly recommend particularly in good weather. Minimal difficulty.
Walking only 1.95 miles with a short ascent of 435 feet. Go for it.

Arran Coastal Way Lochranza loop via Fionn Bhealach

A quick return to Arran to complete the Sannox - Lochranza leg of the Arran Coastal Way.
The weather this week has been great, big blue skies with at times a chilly NE wind. Today is similar.

Postie's trail

I have an occasional walking pal with me today and our walk began at Lochranza distillery. Our timings were pretty tight to catch the bus from Lochranza for the 16.40 sailing back but if we do miss it at least there is another ferry albeit with a lot of hanging around.
We set off walking up the postie trail to Laggan. A very pleasant gradual climb. We soon hear and then spot a cuckoo closely followed by some red deer fairly low down, two of today’s targets for my pal. As we gained height I spotted something reflecting in the sun high on a hill, then there was movement on Torr Meadhonach. Binos out and it was at least 4 walkers who I reckoned we should be close to when we reached the top of this ridge pass at Bearradh Tom a’ Mhudie.

Views opening out Torr left and Fionn right

We were also catching up a solo walker who had been on our bus and then we spotted another group heading up to Fionn Bhealach. What is going on? It is like Sauchiehall street today.
We did catch both parties; the fit old guy was on a day trip from Glasgow and the group were kids plus teacher doing the Duke of Edinburgh assessment, compass and map reading skills, they got lucky with the weather, full lines of sight.

Pick a line and go straight up

We headed out into the tussocky grass, no path to follow, pick a line and go for it, mainly dry underfoot but many boggy patches of moss, high dry reeds, and areas of eroded ground to manoeuvre round. It quickly became too tough for my pals fitness so with his permission I left him to continue to enjoy the views and have his lunch, whilst I did a solo to the top.

Fionn Bhealach final ridge

I had budgeted for 40 minutes to Fionn Bhealach and back but in reality it took an hour, the terrain was rather poor for my speed walking. In a couple of months time when the ferns have grown and the ground possibly wetter it would be a proper challenge. The views were superb but I did not stop for many snaps as I wanted to get back before he thought I had got lost. Luckily he could see me for most of the way.

Looking north on descent

We met up again, my pal had enjoyed his relaxing lunch whilst I was eating on the hoof and we quickly headed down the track to Laggan cottage. Enjoying some great easterly views whilst descending.

The track does continue to Laggan cottage

We were pushing on now aiming for a point in the distance which I thought was the Cock of Arran, our immediate destination. Just like up on the hills it was a teaser, once we got there another point lay ahead. The path was now much harder going. We spot a small digger which is being used to improve the path away from boggy land. It only becomes apparent later as we debate how exactly did that digger get there?

New track

The question is asked as the next stretch across the An Scriordan boulders is a very challenging and seemed at the time a long arduos section. I can fully understand how some reviewers have been caught out by this, it slowed us down. Looking at the GPS data later the temperature was in the high 80’s for about 30 minutes of this sheltered leg dropping to mid 60’s when we finally turned the northern tip and hit the westerly wind.

The end of the boulder field

From the map I knew we had missed Ossian’s cave, I was looking for it but maybe just pushing too hard?
Time was definitely not on our side so I had to encourage my pal to up the pace, his non recent walking was catching him out fitness wise. We pass the cottage at Fairy Dell and stop briefly at Hutton’s Unconformity. Impressive pink coloured sandstone and granite with green seaweed to add colour.

As we turned the point at North Newton the westerly wind picked and so did our pace. We could see some housing in the distance but of course the bay was in-between us and the bus.

The final stretch should have been enjoyable but for us became an army yomping session, easier when you are young and fit but not so cool at our age.
It was low tide so we were able to cross the high tide area, feet had to get wet but needs must. We arrived at the bus stop with 3 minutes to spare, far too close for comfort. Of course the bus was 5 minutes late but there you go.
The 4.5 miles stretch from Laggan caught me out and again took longer than expected.
Nevertheless it was a good day out, with 10 miles covered in 4 hours of very mixed walking, ascent just under 1700 feet. Memo to self, next time catch the earlier ferry and give yourself more time for that reward of coffee and cake.

River Ayr Way Muirkirk - Sorn

Typical River Ayr scene

Having completed my Forth & Clyde canal walk last week it gave me the incentive to complete the other long distance walks that I have semi completed. The easiest geographical one and today’s walk is the River Ayr Way. 
Today I have to rely on public transport and as such I cannot find transport from Muirkirk to Glenbuck so I am only going with Muirkirk to Sorn today and return to complete Glenbuck to Muirkirk tomorrow.
Three bus journeys gets me from Barassie to Muirkirk, an experience in itself and that's before I even start my walk.

I have no doubts that this is the most scenic section of the river walk but I am glad that I did it on a warm spring day and not a wild winter version.
A stop at the local shop for my refreshments then a walk out to Kames to start it proper. A brief chat with a couple of locals confirms that the route should be ok for livestock ie cattle. The skies are blue but there is still an edge to the easterly wind so light jacket kept on.
The track is good walking and simple to follow for the full walk. Quite soon it feels encouragingly remote but only after walking past the impressive go kart circuit and the more rustic golf course. There is a historic feeling to be walking on the MacAdams experimental tarmac surface.

Tibbies brig

Plenty of sheep around, as all day, but quickly the rugged moorland becomes picturesque, Tibbie’s Brig with its seating, a lovely spot.
Following the old railway track through the light woods I disturb at close order a red grouse, a roe deer and a cock pheasant, all within 5 minutes, now this is a country walk.

When you reach the small iron fenced martyrs grave there is also a board, please read the history. Apt that this spot also returns to the River Ayr which this walk is all about. A very pleasant mile or so of twisting & turning riverwalk, calming water one minute, riffles the next, eroded banking showing what can happen when the river rises. Wildlife in this short section included mallard, grey heron, stoat, roe deer, 11 ducklings scampering into the tree lined embankment, flying across the water like pond skaters. Never saw the parent, hung about for a snap but they were more patient than me and never reappeared.

Opencast plantation

Now there is a reminder of current industry practices, a vast opencast site which is still operational. A huge quarry has been water filled but at least the surrounding area is under plantation to hide it from view.

I crossed the A70 and followed the river to the Airds Moss bridge. You now have a real moorland feel and because it is a relatively low ground there is also a big sky feel. On the exposed landscape the easterly wind is felt but at least it is mainly behind me. New birds: lapwing; stonechat; curlew; meadow pipit (I think one looked different enough to be a tree pipit); oystercatcher.
This is not only an RSPB bird sanctuary but has deep Covenanter history as well as local Muirkirk history. 

The barren moor/bog land is being criss crossed by ravens and crows trying to identify the nests of the breeding birds, a buzzard also makes an experience.
In terms of local history I come across the memorial to the farmer and poet John Lapraik, friend of Rabbie, in the same fenced off field are these Canada geese, surprised to see the geese still around, maybe fully fledged immigrants.
After a couple of miles of following the river the track moves away and rises up to cross more moorland. The remainder of the walk continues this theme of moving away from and returning to the river. Of course most of diversion means climbing but the views remain worthwhile.

Just after leaving the Aird moss area I was reflecting that this landscape was perfect for the Cuckoo, so numerous a couple of days ago on Arran, but so silent here. Then, no kidding, within 10 seconds one started calling, is that spooky or what?

Looking bag Cairn Table in distance

For long periods there is minimal sound apart from the river and the wildlife so just perfect to chill and enjoy a wild walk. In the distance an occasional car is sighted. The moorland is being left behind to return to more traditional woodland but not before isolated trees are clinging to the steep slopes.

Clinging for life

As I approach Sorn there are more pastures and more farmland workings but really you don’t know that you are approaching Sorn until you see the Sorn Estates private fishing notices and then when you leave the wood and join the main road, there you are, the village of Sorn.

Almost at Sorn

For some reason it felt like a longer walk than reality, maybe just tired legs on a sunny day. Very, very different from the temperature when I left Sorn on this journey earlier this year.
Walk distance 12.91 miles which took me 4.52 hours. 216 metres of ascent.
Pity Sorn Inn was closed for the afternoon so no finishing pint!!

River Ayr Way Glenbuck - Muirkirk

Back again to complete the walk. With my good lady around we drove to Glenbuck where she would walk with me for a bit then drive on and meet me at Muirkirk.
Yesterday using public transport it was about 2 and a half hours from leaving home to starting the walk, today’s drive to the same location just under 30 minutes.

As always for me finding the exact start seems to be problematic. We were looking for the signposted lane, not evident driving from Muirkirk!! We drove past the loch, turned back and went up the first right turn, spotted the waymarker and reached the small parking area.
A few minutes taking photos and studying the river Ayr board then the short walk to spend some time at the impressive memorial to Bill Shankly. For people of my generation memories of this great character remain strong.

Almost at the road where we turned in and the track between the hedge and fields is evident. 
A short stroll and you cross the road to now mainly walk the old railway line to Muirkirk. 

In truth there is not a lot to comment on this section. The walk is mainly close to the road absolutely flat, you can see everything ahead. The terrain is open moorland, sheep everywhere. On your right there are good views of Cairn Table, its 2 prominent cairns and its outlying hills. 
It is also interesting to see how small and narrow the River Ayr is near its source but the worn away embankments suggests it can surge fast and high even up here.

On your right is another huge opencast mine/quarry which does not make for very attractive viewing. Is it a sign of the isolation or relative low wealth of this area that they make no attempt to hide these workings, just scarred blots on the landscape.

No hiding the mining

It is worth taking some time to think what this would have looked like a century ago, lead mines, coal mines, the tarmac experiments, railways, a landscape of noise and smoke, very different.

Mrs B headed back and I walked on to my only potential issue of the day. An ex farmer had told me yesterday that that the farmer had been authorised to graze a small group of tups on the walkway but that this exemption had expired and it should be clear. You guessed it there they were all lying across the narrow path. My sage said that with the breeding season over their testosterone levels should be low but never turn your back on them and you can't outrun them. Great. As I closed in one by one they rose, these rams were big headed, big horned, powerful beasts and could no doubt do damage. Luckily they were all prepared to move a little, I had to turn my back on them as they were spread out but no charges, whew. No stopping to take photos.

Muirkirk ahead

I entered a small wood near Muirkirk where I met a fellow who told me he was a conservation officer for the River Ayr Walk and had a complaint yesterday about tups on the path. Well, well, my sage from yesterday I wonder? He wanted to see them for himself before going to the farmer.
Going through the woods I heard my only cuckoo of the day. Mrs will be jealous that she wasn’t here.
A bit of twisting and turning and the walk arrives at Kames, a short walk to end both the day and my River Ayr adventure. The good lady and I then continued to Tibbie’s brig for our windy picnic.
Distance 4.47, a 90 minute stroll with minimal ascent.