A special day on a Cowal Fiona.....Beinn Ruadh

Hill: Beinn Ruadh (Red mountain)

Type: Fiona

Height: 664m

I am focusing on my Fiona target before the weather turns so whilst the dry weather was around it was another trip across the water to bag another of the Cowal Fiona's.

Beinn Ruadh seemed the most straightforward of these for a day trip. It is mainly steep moorland hills with forestry issues that I had left on Cowal so options limited. There are 2 main routes, the most common appears to be the very steep route from Inverchapel. But for the sake of 10 minutes more driving I opted for the longer ramble starting from about ¾ mile up the turn off at Whistlefield, indeed you could start from the Forestry Commission sign at Whistlefield and add a couple of miles to the walk.

The forecast was for another clear day and it was just that on the mainland. However off the ferry and I was into fog. I knew the walk had about 30 minutes of forestry walking so decided to start it and assess conditions once I hit the moor proper.

Sign saying route will be closed when work starts

Take the right turn

There is enough space for one car without blocking access across from the start. Crossed the icy road where a sign stated that work would be starting soon and this route would be closed. It might not affect the main track from Whistlefield which this joins.

Another very cold day, well wrapped up from the start where a short trek to meet the main track which you continue with until a fork in the track where I went right.

As far as forestry sections go this was a more pleasant one. Soft underfoot, a good gradient, plenty of gaps so did not feel hemmed in. Plus there was a huge flock of goldcrests all the way up, occasionally seen but mainly heard their oh so soft calling, very relaxing sound.

Glad I found this even for the short section

Another Fiona Beinn Bheag

Panoramic view

Not much snow but the ground was frozen solid it was bitter, spikes would have helped at times

I reached the moor where I was now above the fog with some super inversion views. There is a broken fence which I originally stayed nearside but the going was awful. Crossed over to find an old ATV track which was a godsend.

This took me up to the west of Sligrachan Hill, easier going but all water was frozen solid so detours into the tussocks frequently required as no spikes with me.

At this point I was at circa 530m and felt that I had done all the hard work but oh no the slog is just beginning.

I knew this was a longer route but I had not done my homework and studied the terrain well enough. I thought it looked pretty flat on the map but there were as many ups and downs as I have had on a hill for yonks. They might only have been 50-80 metres but they took their toll as the terrain was pure tussocky moorland. my calves were a tad sore.

There were some ATV tracks but mostly deer tracks. Surprisingly good in places before abruptly disappearing, where did they go?

I almost gave up when another lump appeared in fron of me with steep craggy ground at the top. I initially started to climb but this was silly so inched my way around where it became a grassy gully, still steep deep grass, more moaning.

You can go either side of the big lump ahead, not the top I wanted

Then you have to descend and see this, still not the top

After getting up drop down and yet another wee lump and still not the top

Yet another down and reascent you guessed still not the top

Finally that is it in the distance

Having dragged myself up there was yet another higher lump in the distance. Maybe only 20-30 metres higher but it looked like Everest.

Full ridge across the loch, 2 Fionas, Beinn Mhor & Bheag

Snow shower over Ben Lomond I think

The views were clear across to the Arrochar tops and maybe Ben Lomond? Nearby the fog still hung around but the inversion views superb.

My brocken spectre

On my way down I encountered my 1^st ever brocken spectre, all those years without seeing one I was well chuffed. At least I got the snaps before it disappeared, sharp they are not but it meant a lot.

More meandering around crags when I spotted movement on the crags away to my right. An animal, it moved quickly and low to the ground, I assumed fox but it looked black and its movement was more cat like. It had spotted me as It stopped and looked from behind a boulder. Too far away to be sure. Never saw it again but was that another 1^st?

Corbett of Beinn Bheula on right

Even with good light there are many hillocks and crags to navigate with some veery steep fall offs, grassy they may be but you could roll a long way. I would not like to do his on a bad weather day. At times I knew I was not on my outward track, too close to Loch Eck side but eventually I found the ATV track back to the forestry ascent.

Clouds clearing and Loch Eck looking smashing 

All in all a fine ramble with splendid inversion views but I suspect my Cowal Fiona bagging might end here.

Ascent: 721m

Distance: 10.7km

Time: 4.06

Wildlife: Sparrowhawk; Coal Tit; Goldcrest huge flock in forest; Fox or Big Cat!!

Worth the wood trudge for the views.....Cruach nan Capull

Cruach nan Capull (heap of the horses)

Type: Fiona

Height: 611m

A new wee ferry trip across the water for today's ramble. I cannot recall having used the Western Ferries from Gourock to Dunoon. I have used the CalMac version as a foot passenger but today the car was required to get to the hill.

One bizarre aspect of using Western is that is about half price if you buy a ticket at one of their agents rather than on the ferry. Booking online they post you tickets, no phone app, very outdated.

Snap from ferry approaching Dunoon

A short stop at the Coop in Wemyss Bay to get my tickets and pork pie, healthy walking food and before long I drove straight onto the ferry and was sailing. The weather was a brilliant blue sky but bitterly cold, -4deg when I started the car. A short romp to the front of the ferry then quickly back to the warmth of the car, was I really going up a hill?

A short 20 minute calm crossing after which I set off to Glen Lean. 

My target was Cruach nan Capull which has the distinction of being the most southerly Fiona in the Highlands. It doesn't really feel like the Highlands when I have just popped over from North Ayrshire/Inverclyde but that's maps for you. 

When I turned off the main road I was met by a big yellow sign, no entry, road closed ahead, at some bridge I knew not where. My app said 3.8 miles to start of walk so I risked it as I didn't have a plan B for today. My thinking was to get as close as possible and walk the rest. Thankfully when I parked up at the walk start near Corrachaive an bubbly young lady with a very unattractive dog told me that the road closure was a couple of miles further on.

Capull the lump behind

I climbed the gate and walked up another no entry track, forestry workings this time, but as the gate was locked and I could not hear any machinery so again took the risk.

This hill can be climbed from two sides and in retrospect the other option which is more common, might be longer but more straightforward.

A ramble of 3 sections. The 1^st was the hard packed forestry track silent apart from the number of ravens flying low and high. A report on Walkhighlands by JJ mentions a huge number, clearly a breeding hot spot. The track continues but go no further after the obvious quarry.

Ascend behind not in front of the quarry

The easiest obstacle comes 1st just to get you complacement 

Reached the quarry where stage 2 is encountered. The SMC book describes this as a wee jolly up a grassy track. Well not quite, you only find the track after scrambling up the steep side of the quarry and behind it is the track. 

Indeed this does take you up to roughly the 350m mark. What it doesn't tell you is that whatever storm has brought down a large number of trees all of which seem to have fallen across the track. Some you can climb over, some you have to go into the trees for a short detour and some much longer detours where you pray you will find the track again. Plus it was surprisingly dark on this blue sky day god knows what it would be like on a gloomy day.

What it also doesn't mention is that is at times it is not a path but a gloopy mud fest and I mean deep gloop which cannot be avoided. The track also takes some sharp bends, not always obvious as it is a mud fest until you realise you are definitely not on a track any more. So double back to find the bit you missed or just be frustrated and go home.

Near the treeline you just have to make a call where to leave the track and meander up and hope you get out. Phew, I did, but finding this on the way back was already bringing out negative thoughts, a worry!! My departure was earlier than the SMC book suggests but I had no confidence that the track was going much further and I could see light through the trees.

Pleased to exit the plantation wish I had remembered that tree as a marker when descending

Relieved to be out on the moor for Stage 3. It was rough, reed boggy but there was enough harder ground to let me head for Mid Hill, detouring round on my right where I found the old fence line that leads to the summit, eventually.

Contouring to the old fenceline

It goes up pointy bit on left as did I before heading for the gully

The broken fence goes directly up a steep face. I initially followed it then backed off as I was face in on icy stuff, on my own and not clever if I had a fall. I backed down and edged across where I went up the gully on my right. A stone erosion landslide chute made it much easier.

Reached the top of this and of course there is now the steepest section ahead, I was huffing and puffing away as I followed the fence higher and higher. This was the hardest bit physically and it was not until looking down when on the descent that I realised just how steep it was. Legs were pleased to reach the flattish ground where a 5 minute stroll to the single iron pole marked the summit. The glare from the low sun was blinding, glad I only had it for a short section.

View north up the Clyde

Ben Lomond and the Arrochar hills

South over Cumbrae and the Ayrshire hills beyond

West to the Paps of Jura

The views were outstanding but it was bitterly cold particularly as an unexpected strong breeze appeared. Feel like temperature was easily in minus figures.

Descent

Sgorach Mor the stumpy top across the glen

So back down the same way. I did find where I exited the trees but the section back to the track was not easy, minor memory jolts, this way or that, but with relief at one point I realised the mud I was on was the track I wanted.

The descent was less of an ordeal but I was still a happy chappie to reach the quarry.

The ramble felt a lot longer than the actual walking time but it was harder work than I expected. Fionas/Grahams do not give up their tick easily and I know that I will not be repeating that route ever again. And regarding the name of the hill, no I never saw any horses.

Now that I have sampled the short crossing I intend to have another trip or two across the water for my winter programme.

Ascent: 552m

Distance: 8.9km

Time: 3.12

Wildlife: Raven many different birds: Wren

Final Galloway Sub2k.....Pibble Hill

Hill: Pibble Hill

Type: Sub2k

Height: 383m

Woke up to a rare blue sky day, was meant to be doing something else but this weather opening could not be wasted. As it was a last minute decision a short walk was required. Ferries were still a bit erratic after last two days of stormy weather so a short trip to the Galloway Hills to finish my last of the South Western Sub2k’s.

Lovely drive which took longer as I was going slowly trying hard to avoid the potholes hidden at times by the very low glare of the morning sun.

Made it and parked up on the obvious grassy area on the Corse of Slakes Road close to the maintenance road for the masts on Cambret Hill. 

On stepping out of the car I was met by a bitterly cold wind, wow not used to this. Hat and jacket on immediately and gloves donned at start of walk, long time since I did that. From the car I had a clear view of where I was heading over rugged and barren Glenquicken Moor. I suspected a small hill that I could see in the distance, slightly right and behind the main ones had a point on it, was that Pibble?

Although this is a short ramble I had always chosen something else over it due to its reputation as being a moorland bog fest. The reality? Well in parts it definitely was but considering the amount of rain we have had recently it was was much better than expected.

Typical pathless D&G moorland

View over barren ground Gatehouse about 4 miles thataway

Ahead lay a sprawling typical D&G moorland. From the car there was a faint ATV track that I could see so started with it which disappeared just as quickly. These were proper foot rolling tussocks but on the out ramble I picked my way quite well using on off ATV tracks and water tracks which at least gave flatter non ankle rolling walking. Don t expect to go in a straight line just meander as your eye sees best.

Keep the wall on the left

Cairnsmore of Fleet in background

Any ascents are gentle I just kept heading to the higher ground looking for harder surfaces. They were there but higher up more defined ATV tracks could be followed for longer but surprisingly these were also the wettest bits.

I reached the ‘high’ ridge where to be fair the wind was stronger and cooler. But the views were good particularly over Cairnsmore of Fleet.

Very little wildlife so far a solitary meadow pipit and solitary raven.

Final humps and tumps

The hill I could see from the car was very close and it did indeed have a pointed stone cairn, an easy 55 minutes from the car. The stone is a thin whinstone with a larger example alongside some flat stones in the woods. This area has many historical sites and this could well be another one.

View to Cairnsmore of Fleet and mine over that wall

View north

View south

Zoomed in and Lake District hills at top

As I said earlier the views over Fleet excellent, viewing south the rugged moorland dominates and the Lake District hills are just obvious in the haze.

As I stood at the summit looking northwest there is an abandoned copper/lead mine on the slopes on your left, not visible from here. You can go up a track from Creetown to this historically important mine worth a short read Pibble Mine - Northern Mine Research Society (nmrs.org.uk)

Return route masts just seen on Cambret on the left. No snaps after this due to low sun and glare

Returned the same way along the upper level with the masts on Cambret Hill a straightforward navigational guide.

After that I was aware that I was varying my route slightly and although not far away from the ascent this section was much wetter and harder to pick a line in the tussocks so just aimed for the car. One plus was springing a snipe zig zagging away with its unmistakable weird call.

So a gentle ramble to finish my SW Sub2k’s. These are hills that get sparse visitors and all the better for it. Very pleased I did it today with the blue skies and the long distance views.

Ascent: 206m

Distance: 5k

Time: 1.45

Wildlife: Snipe; Raven; Meadow Pipit

The hidden grouse moors.....Hunt Law

Hill: Hunt Law

Type: Donald Top

Height: 639m

After a superb breakfast at the excellent Queensberry B&B in Moffat, a good option if staying over, I made the short drive north to the Manor Hills. It was a grey sky but still a lovely drive through these rolling border hills. As I passed the Devils Beeftub I spotted a big bird in the sky, immediate thought Golden Eagle but by the time I safely stopped and got the binos out I saw it no more. As 40 birds have now been released in this area there was a good chance of it being an eagle.

My walk objective was to pick off another Donald Top, this time Hunt Law, an outlier of Cramalt Craig. I remember doing CC with Broad Law from the Meggat stone but the onward rough ground and then the trek back was too much for that outing but no hardship to have to come back and bag it on its own via a new route.

During my planning I identified 4 different options and I hummed and hawed over making this a bike/hike. I couldn't find any reports using my planned route, there's a surprise, and I was concerned about potential gates/fences that I could not get the bike over. As it turned out it would have been ideal for the bike but heehaw.

The bridge over the River Tweed at the start

I parked up at a convenient layby opposite my start point where I crossed the bridge over the River Tweed at Patervan Farm. The OS map suggested an on-off grassy farm track at the beginning but aerial maps appeared to show a timber route and indeed this was the case. This goes for about 2 miles circling Polmood Hill before reaching an open area at the base of Birkside Law.

Texel sheep

This is sheep country and there were plenty of them about. Most were traditional breeds but the 1st ones I encountered was this pair of Texel sheep. I love the attitude they give out, always think they are ready for a scrap, probably with me lol.

The winding track, Hunt Law at the back

Palmood burn

Broad mass of Hunt Law

After a short spell a grassy track weaves its way below Birkside Law with the long flat top of Hunt Law right in front. Apart from the sheep the only other sound was the waterfalls of the descending Polmood Burn. Still a beautiful spot for a walk.

A well constructed sheep pen, there were a few more around

I presume this was a Corvid/Raptor trap but a new design to me. It was empty but I did not see any ravens/crows on the ramble.

Grouse butts near the top of Hunt Law

Final track to the top

Apart from the sheep shooting pheasant and red grouse appears to be the economics of this place. The grassy track became a new rough ground ATV track as it rose taking me to the rear of Hunt Law. 

View West to Culter Fell/Tinto

View NE Pentlands just peaking through

The main view is dominated by the Corbett of Broad Law and the demoted Corbett of Cramalt Craig. Although only 4 metres shorter than Broad Law its descent was measured at 146m and not the 150m required for Corbett status, small things do matter to some.

The mast on top of Broad Law

It surprised me how this hidden side of the Manor Hills is devoted to grouse shooting, I am surrounded by a vista of patchwork heather. Not at all evident from the Meggat side or indeed any other side. It gave me a moments pause to think about the many acres of shooting moorland I have tramped across and question just how many people shoot for a so called pastime, a lot more than I would like to think.

Patchwork grouse moors

At this point I would have left my bike and walked the remaining 40 metres of ascent up a grassy slightly eroded ATV track to the top. Fairly short distance but nice views over the wind turbines to Culter Fell. Through the gap in the Drumelzier hills could be spotted some Pentland tops. And behind me the aforementioned grouse moors and Broad Law.

Spotted quite a few of these but thankfully empty of mustelids

A gentle saunter back the same way spotting a few traps, wouldn't be a grouse moor without them but thankfully empty. Had a look at this enclosure, not sure if it was a corvid/raptor trap but the skies were certainly absent of them.

Birkside Law's steep slopes

On the walk out Birkside Law was prominent and looked a much more shapely hill than Hunt Law, more deserving of recognition I thought.

Fly Agaric mushroom

Under the trees I spotted a large fungi patch dominated by the Fly Agaric.  Interesting how many had a clean cut wedge out of them with no sign of the wedge. I don't know a lot about mushrooms but I know red is normally dangerous and these definitely are.

Suddenly I was stopped in my tracks by the sound I had hoped to hear. A stag roaring but only a couple of times. I stood for 5 minutes but no more roaring. Where are you? I began to question myself but I knew what I heard, probably on the top of the hill or in the trees, even other side of the hills. No sighting, just the sound of the roar, unforgettable and the highlight of my day.

Ascent: 471m

Distance: 13.8km

Time: 3.12

Wildlife: Buzzard; Pheasant: Red Grouse; Grey Heron; Wren; Robin; Great Tit