Thursday 22 January 2015

Ayrshire Coastal Path Troon - Ardrossan

After what seems like an eternity of gale force winds it is great to have a period of relative calm. With all the snow around my only option is a low level walk so I decided to do another stretch of this path. I had intended to do this yesterday but the weather forecast said snow/sleet coming in mid morning onwards so I decided to pass. Guess what, the snow did come in but not until 8 pm so a bit annoyed. A check on the met office this morning indicated a dull cold day but more importantly no snow or rain so off we go.
Looking to Arran in the snow
This section of the Coastal walk is a bit of a misnomer as about half of it is well away from the coast and follows inland paths so be prepared.
The first section of the walk  from Troon in the guide gives you two alternatives; an inland walk via the ruins of Dundonald castle or the beach walk. I am familiar with the castle area so for me it is the direct route today. I started at Troon harbour on this slightly bleak morning, well wrapped up for the trip. If you finish the Ayr section here you have the bonus option of visiting the Wee Hurrie one of Scotland's best fish & chippies. The don't call it a supper here so just ask for haddock & chips and I doubt you will be disappointed. However too early for it to be open so on with the walk. This stretch skirts past Troon marina, you can pop in and look around, some high value boats here. Onwards past the ferry terminal which at the moment is a summer only fast boat to Belfast so there is no activity today. The walk skirts around Troon but it is easy to pop into the town if you want some provisions or just a look around. You now come onto the cycle path which is an easy follow or you can go onto the beach. You now have views on your left of Arran all the way to Irvine, that is if unlike today it isn't hidden by the gloom, however to show you how different our days are here is a photo of Arran taken on Monday.
The houses of Barassie shore line your left and when you reach the end of the cycle path do not follow it up to the houses but continue on the grassy area following the beach.
When you reach the pumping station you can continue along the beach or follow the edge of the dunes via the golf course. There is a right of way alongside the course but take care, the golfers of Western Gailes can be a stuck up lot and whilst many will give you a friendly greeting a significant few will just glare at you. Your choice.
Tideline obvious
It is a straight walk along the beach so no maps required. The dunes on your right are now collapsing rapidly as the sea reclaims the land, they are now a shadow of their once mighty size. It would appear neither North nor South Ayrshire councils have any will to do anything about the erosion. Very sad, no doubt someone will come to their senses but it will be too late and most of the sand and grass will be long gone.

Look out coast side for all the normal seashore birds along the waters edge and if you have the binos keep scanning the sea you might be surprised what is out there. It has been strange having last nights snow flurry covering the sand where the incoming tide didn't reach.
I am breaking in a new pair of boots which are fine but the main issue being the laces are crap and keep loosening. I finally found out that if you tie them tightly the tension doesn't hold and they quickly loosen. I therefore had to tie them looser which also meant the boots were a looser fit than I like. Poor show Salomen for over £100 quid boots duff laces. So I now had a doubt in my mind as to whether I would complete the walk. Thankfully I didn't end up with any blistering.
The guide book says this stretch is 6 miles but I think it is a bit shorter. As I step off the shore and up-to the car park the temperature cools slightly in the breeze but it is enough to get me to pull the zips up.
Irvine bay & mudflats

I can see round the bay ahead but the route now goes inland, past the mudflats, again a good winter birding spot. We head towards Irvine town then follow the cycle path over the River Irvine and effectively now you are following this cycle route all the way to Ardeer.
River Irvine, railway viaduct & Ardeer beyond

The path goes past the area known as Bogside, the name tells you everything. There used to be a racecourse which hosted the Scottish Grand National but it is now gone. There is a challenging golf course but we don't really see much of it today.
The path is now getting decidedly slippy as the new snow has settled on previous ice so the grassy verges are my chosen area for walking particularly on inclines and declines. The prospect of a sore bottom is forefront in my mind.
This area is very much a reclaimed wetland and the Nature reserve you pass can be explored with care but not today, as you can see most of the water is iced over and only for the ducks and the wetland birds.
A short bit ahead you have the choice of taking a short detour of about a mile each way, into Kilwinning to visit their historic Abbey. Again I know the area well so pass on the detour. If you do this in June check the town website as a famous archery contest takes place that month.
This stretch is for me the most boring, it is mainly tarmac, some path and some minor road, as you skirt around Kilwinning and cut underneath the main road and head to Stevenston. In fairness it is very quiet but on a day like today there is not a lot going for it. The usual hedgerow birds are very active, spring bonding taking place, so at least there is something to look at apart from the icy path.
We now enter Ardeer Park which has a duckpond which normally has a few duck varieties but today it is iced over and the ducks are elsewhere. Still, it is time to have a short break, get the flask out and enjoy some home-made soup. A couple of local dog walkers are disappointed that I did not have any left to share with them.
Despite the gloomy day I am well wrapped up so cold is not an issue and I am even regularly off and on with my gloves and hat. There was once a canal in this site but the water has long since gone.
I follow the icy path/road up to the train station where the warning barriers are down and red lights are flashing for what seems like 5 minutes before the 3 coach train pulls into the station. For a few local worthies this appears to be today's entertainment. A couple of sizeable local ladies are struggling with their footing, fiercely holding onto each other, a case of 'if one goes down we both go'!!
Ardeer dunes looking North
Through the gates and I can see open land again, yippee, a big grassy area with some dunes in the distance. Even a play park for the kids. These dunes are a designated nature area but there are many tracks through them so clearly popular with walkers or more likely dog walkers from my experience today. However, it was great to stand atop of a dune and take in the view, a calm sea, looking back the Ardeer works, a pale shadow of the industrialisation that once stood here. Not so good for the workers but a lot better for the views. Looking north the bay leads to Saltcoats pier, again historically a major port but now more or less abandoned.
Ardeer dunes looking south

I clamber off the dunes and walk along the beach to the promenade. Anyone who lives in the West of Scotland will be familiar with it but maybe not realise how familiar they are with it. Whenever a big storm hits the West the camera crews make a beeline for here to get some great shots of huge waves crashing over the promenade and onto the rail line. 
The promenade

The promenade is sadly abandoned save for the odd dog walker heading back to the static caravan site, am I the only walker today without a dog? Just me and a few gulls. The three towns of Stevenston, Saltcoats & Ardrossan have a rich industrial history, linking the area with the other coastal resorts of Irvine, Troon & Ayr. As always fortunes are made by some then lost again just as quickly. Read the guidebook for detailed information on the industrial history of the area.
Gulls & a calm sea
I have reached Saltcoats harbour, also sadly giving the impression of being derelict, additionally the high harbour wall walk is closed for repairs after the last storm. I suspect it is rarely open. A walk around the bay promenade brings me to Ardrossan bay and I'm nearly at the end of this section. The two bays are lined with Victorian mansions, a reminder of the historic industrial importance of these bays, but now they are mostly divided into flats.
There are some attempts to shore front entertainment, amusement arcades and even a cinema, but all in all not a lot going for it.
Ardrossan from Saltcoats
A final walk along the beach takes me into Ardrossan proper. This stretch alongside the beach is still a bit tired and run down. Further on in the harbour area major regeneration is taking place, marinas, restaurants and new housing but this area could do with some support. The views into the Dalry hills are sadly spoiled by the wind turbines. You can cross the road, take a short walk and visit Ardrossan castle, another one destroyed by our 'friend' Cromwell. It wasn't until I read the guide book that I learned that the stone from the castle was taken to Ayr to build the Citadel, you learn something every day. 
I have enjoyed my walk today, the exercise was welcome even if the dullish day and the time of year meant that there was less colour around. As I said in the beginning this is the stretch with the most time walking away from the coast so just accept it.
A 5 hour walk for me, the signpost indicates 17 miles but I felt it was closer to 15 but good nonetheless.

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