Ayrshire Coastal Path Glenapp - Ballantrae

Now that the northern stretch has been completed it is time to tick off the remaining southern legs. I had originally planned to do this on Wednesday when, as it turned out, the clear air day would have been perfect but I had to delay a couple of days and didn't think the views would be as good. On the journey down the clouds were ominous but thankfully the forecast came good and it brightened up. I was using the bus today so I had accepted that I could only do the shortish 1st leg in the time I had available. It turned out that I then had another decision to make as on the journey I got a call telling me I was baby sitting that night and Mrs was out at 7pm!! The guide suggests between 4 and 4.30 mins for the walk. In 3 hours time I could get a bus at Ballantrae, the next one 2 hours later. Lets see how the 1st hour goes then decide.

Glenapp Kirk

The bus dropped me off at Glenapp Kirk and just as well I asked a fellow passenger sitting near me when we would reach Glenapp village. He laughed and said 'now' and pressed the stop button. Just as well as despite saying to the driver where I wanted off, he would have sped past, the village being the kirk and a couple of houses without a sign.
The kirk is reputed to be one of the smallest in Scotland and indeed a lovely scenic little setting it sits in.

Ferry leaving Cairnryan

The walk starts across the road, take care crossing as the traffic to and from Stranraer flies past. The path starts with a gradual walk up the hill. You are surrounded by rhododendron bushes but I am a month or so early before they bloom, a non native species being removed in parts of Scotland but it will still be a fine sight when they bloom. A flash of colour on the hedge catches my eye and it is a dead male pheasant. The fly tying fisherman in me considers a plucking job but decide I don't have the time nor a pouch to keep the no doubt flea ridden feathers in. I think it has been run over and left there although it looks in good condition.

Incoming & outgoing ferries

The honking of male pheasants was a common feature today with many running right in front of me or exploding out of the undergrowth right beside me giving my ticker a fright. However they are undeniably beautifully coloured birds.
At the top of the hill I spot a ferry crossing out of Cairnryan and my peripheral vision spots a bird of prey circling over a field of lambs. It looks too big for a buzzard surely not a golden eagle. Binoculars quickly out and indeed it is. It did not descend but rode a thermal circling higher and higher until out of sight. Not the only one I would see today but more of that later.
After 30 minutes I get my first glimpse of the sea, it is a Coastal path after all, and get a good view of the peninsula and lighthouse near Portpatrick, the Mull of Kintyre and in the distance Northern Ireland. To the north Ailsa Craig dominates with a view of Arran from the south that I don't normally see. Fantastic.

Ailsa Craig in the distance

The walk is now in open moorland and it is very boggy in places,I wish I had worn gaiters. Skylarks and meadow pipits take to the air singing loudly above me, a cheering sound. A pair of peewits cry and circle over the open field and I presume a nest. There is a prehistoric cairn nearby but I am not going to go across this boggy ground to try and find it.
The track heads towards the sea and I can see that it then turns left.  Every field is dotted with sheep, often with lambs, so dog walkers beware. Sheep all over apart from the track that I am heading down. The cattle are out and they are right on my path and from half a mile away they have also spotted me. There are about 20 of them with some very young calves. I have previous history with cattle and now avoid them at all costs. I walk down the hill but there is no way past from this path so a detour is in order, particularly as they are now all staring at me. Thankfully the electric fence above the stone dyke to my left is off so over I go keeping the barrier between me and the cattle. The problem I discover is that in this field I am suddenly ankle deep in bog but it has to be done. After crossing a couple of fields I get back on the path and hope that is it for cattle today.
I now make my decision. I am going to up the pace and go for the early bus. I suspect it is just a stretch too far by about 15 minutes or so but lets see. No doubt I will see its rear end and have a 2 hour wait.

Smugglers Bay Currarie Port

The views of the open countryside and across the sea are just magnificent and everything I hoped for. The path is firmer now and I get to the turn and go down the steep slope to the smugglers bay of Currarie Port. You can sit and have your sandwich and envisage who and what clambered ashore in this remote spot. 4 ravens come over the cliff, an omen or not?
The guide talks about crossing the burn via a pipe. Well the pipe is still there but the ground on the far side has eroded somewhat. Jumping was not an option. The burn was running fairly fast and deep in parts. After a scramble up and down its banks I was able to find a spot to jump across but I don't think everyone would manage this. I'm sure the burn will be faster and deeper at other times after heavy rain. Walking poles would help give some support across the water but I have not brought any today.

Looking back along the grassy slopes

Now it is up a steep rocky path, the lungs are blowing, is this the right route? I reach the top and follow the sign & a fence back towards the sea. There is a corrugated iron sheet covering in a small area that I have seen once before in Perthshire, protected habitat for adders I suspect? I follow a grassy trail in which 2 snares are set up, is this the path I again question? I scramble up and climb over the fence and head north. I soon see another fence in the distance with the ACP sign pointing north, not sure where I went wrong but at least back on track.

The next few miles are on a broadish grassy area with great views of the sea below and fairly easy walking. 
This is where I spot a bird circling slightly out at sea. It is a large bird so out with binoculars. My first thought was an osprey as the first arrivals are heading north just now but do they take fish from sea water, I suppose they do, need to find out. The glasses confirmed eagle so next thought was sea eagle trying to find an eider for lunch. It circled and the flew inland fairly close. I could not see any sign of a white tail so I presume it was a goldie but again I have not seen them hunt over the sea before. 
I look at Ailsa Craig and from this perspective I can see the sheer cliff where the gannets nest. Even from this distance their droppings have painted the cliff white.
I am now pushing on quickly with grave doubts about my prospects of success. In the distance I can see the peak of the hill that sits to the west of Ballantrae but I had hoped to see the town itself. 

Ballantrae & Ailsa Craig

Care has to be taken as the ground does give from time to time. I crest a ridge and the town is in view, a quick check of the watch, 26 minutes to bus time. The path goes through a kissing gate into a cattle churned muddy field with no obvious directions re where to head. I can see the River Stinchar which I know cannot be crossed from the beach so I head inland and follow a fence up to the road path. Back on track literally and a quick check of the map shows I have to follow the track through two working farms to the main road.
The walk has been one of total isolation, at one with nature and my own thoughts, the first person I met was a worker at the 1st farm on this track. The amount of farm machinery indicates considerable investment and a large business.

Bridge over the River Stinchar

I am now into a jog walk and reach the main road with 5 minutes to spare and get a quick snap of the bridge. 
Now where is the bus stop? I get there with 3 minutes to spare to the timetabled service and you know what comes next, the bus was 10 minutes late!!
All in all a superb walk with fantastic views, both inland and out to sea. I did the walk in 3 hours almost to the minute but with sweat on the brow. I will return and do this in a more leisurely fashion. Still a superb day, great scenery and plenty of birdlife, what's not to enjoy.

Ayrshire Coastal Path Largs - Skelmorlie

For several reasons, mainly poor weather and then sunning myself in Tenerife, I have been unable to get some good Scottish walking in over the last month so it was uplifting to start tramping about again, continuing my Ayrshire Coastal Path meandering.

The empty promenade at Largs

Today's walk was full of enjoyment but was also disappointing. In this northern section of the coastal walk today's leg gives the walker the most height gained but the undoubted superb views were diluted by the warm hazy air, not a good day for enjoying the long distance views or photographing them but a good day for walking. Still I will be back on a clear air day to take in the superb vista on offer. As I know the area I could pick out the shapes of the islands and the other coastlines but I know that there is so much more to see. If you do this make sure you pick a good viewing day.

Knock Hill in the distance

Today's leg starts in the normally bustling town of Largs where I walk north from the ferry port along a surprisingly deserted promenade. Well it was fairly early in the day and the old residents were probably still enjoying their lie in. A short walk takes me past the boating pond however no boats today, just a shallow and dirty water pool.
You have 2 options for this stretch, around 6-7 miles on the low road and around 9-10 miles on the high road. If you are fit enough then there is no option it has to be the high road where for a little effort you are rewarded with fantastic views both inland and out to islands and coast to the west. You can also make Knock hill your target as a circular walk from either Largs or Skelmorlie.

Boggy path just after the farm

The path to Knock Hill takes you through the outskirts of the town, then a short road stretch past the cemetery and then country walking thereafter. The ascent is gradual and will be easy for any moderately fit person but the track was fairly muddy all the way up the hill and no doubt can be a lot worse after heavy rain. So proper footwear just in case. You pass quite a few farm gates so please ensure all gates are as you find them i.e. if open leave them so and closed if that's the case. The old farmhouse is an interesting structure, sheepdogs barking in the yard but thankfully chained up and plenty of chickens clucking away in their roost.
As you climb there are super views of the hills to your right as well as catching a glimpse of Knock hill from time to time. The weather was so pleasant I had already taken off my light jacket and my mid layer. The climb wasn't hard but the sweat was already on my brow.
The path takes you beyond Knock hill and comes back at it from the rear which eases the climbing burden. At one point, just past the farm, there looks like a direct ascent that can be made but a local I met advised me that it was so boggy that it was not worth the effort. Incidentally that was the only person I met on the walk out with the towns, a great day of isolation and silence apart from natures own sounds.

Knock Hill summit

Pheasants abound and I spot my first Skylarks of the year, singing proudly from way up in the skies.
As mentioned earlier the views from the top of Knock hill are outstanding even on this hazy day. You can understand why a fortress would have been built here, not easy to sneak up on this place. Official height is just under 270 metres yet again proving you don't need to go too high to get the panoramas. The golf course below was a surprise to me, need to check what one this is, even from up here no sight of a clubhouse.

4th take on the self timer

On the way down you divert from the uphill path and head for a stone wall and follow this to a gate. Follow the very muddy track down. There is no obvious track but keep the beech trees and the gulley close to your right and you will be fine. It was clear from the mud that a large number of sheep had came through here recently and I found them at the bottom where a gate appears and a steepish descent takes you to the red road. There were a few pairs of grey squirrels and 4 deer in these woods so keep your eyes open.

The sheep are interested in grazing not me, Knock Hill behind them

This road undulates which gives one a bit of variety instead of a normal flat road, passing pleasant farmland and nice scenic views from time to time.

You now drop down onto the main road and I thought this was the end of this stretch, apart from a short walk along a busy road. However, I should have read the guide a bit more carefully last night. But surprise, surprise the route takes you back up a steep climb, lungs going again, onto a high road past the caravan park. An even older guy than me passed me on the climb jogging, good on you mate.
The views from this road would be worth the effort on a clear air day.
You now reach Skelmorlie and go past some very nice properties a mixture of Victorian mansions and new properties, clearly money not a major issue here. A steep descent down the hill brings you to the end of walk signpost.

Too hazy for a great view

Across the main road there is the ferry/rail terminal of Wemyss Bay, do go across and look at the quality of this iconic station. For gents pop into the toilets, immaculately clean but a throwback to the past, don't know about the ladies but might be similar.
Overall a short stretch which took me just over 3 hours.
For most people this is the end of the coastal path walk but I still have some of the southern section to do over the next few weeks.

The final sign