Monday 23 March 2015

Ayrshire Coastal Path Largs - Skelmorlie


For several reasons, mainly poor weather and then sunning myself in Tenerife, I have been unable to get some good Scottish walking in over the last month so it was uplifting to start tramping about again, continuing my Ayrshire Coastal Path meandering.
The empty promenade at Largs
Today's walk was full of enjoyment but was also disappointing. In this northern section of the coastal walk today's leg gives the walker the most height gained but the undoubted superb views were diluted by the warm hazy air, not a good day for enjoying the long distance views or photographing them but a good day for walking. Still I will be back on a clear air day to take in the superb vista on offer. As I know the area I could pick out the shapes of the islands and the other coastlines but I know that there is so much more to see. If you do this make sure you pick a good viewing day.
Knock Hill in the distance
Today's leg starts in the normally bustling town of Largs where I walk north from the ferry port along a surprisingly deserted promenade. Well it was fairly early in the day and the old residents were probably still enjoying their lie in. A short walk takes me past the boating pond however no boats today, just a shallow and dirty water pool.
You have 2 options for this stretch, around 6-7 miles on the low road and around 9-10 miles on the high road. If you are fit enough then there is no option it has to be the high road where for a little effort you are rewarded with fantastic views both inland and out to islands and coast to the west. You can also make Knock hill your target as a circular walk from either Largs or Skelmorlie.
Boggy path just after the farm
The path to Knock Hill takes you through the outskirts of the town, then a short road stretch past the cemetery and then country walking thereafter. The ascent is gradual and will be easy for any moderately fit person but the track was fairly muddy all the way up the hill and no doubt can be a lot worse after heavy rain. So proper footwear just in case. You pass quite a few farm gates so please ensure all gates are as you find them i.e. if open leave them so and closed if that's the case. The old farmhouse is an interesting structure, sheepdogs barking in the yard but thankfully chained up and plenty of chickens clucking away in their roost.
As you climb there are super views of the hills to your right as well as catching a glimpse of Knock hill from time to time. The weather was so pleasant I had already taken off my light jacket and my mid layer. The climb wasn't hard but the sweat was already on my brow.
The path takes you beyond Knock hill and comes back at it from the rear which eases the climbing burden. At one point, just past the farm, there looks like a direct ascent that can be made but a local I met advised me that it was so boggy that it was not worth the effort. Incidentally that was the only person I met on the walk out with the towns, a great day of isolation and silence apart from natures own sounds.
Knock Hill summit
Pheasants abound and I spot my first Skylarks of the year, singing proudly from way up in the skies.
As mentioned earlier the views from the top of Knock hill are outstanding even on this hazy day. You can understand why a fortress would have been built here, not easy to sneak up on this place. Official height is just under 270 metres yet again proving you don't need to go too high to get the panoramas. The golf course below was a surprise to me, need to check what one this is, even from up here no sight of a clubhouse.
4th take on the self timer
On the way down you divert from the uphill path and head for a stone wall and follow this to a gate. Follow the very muddy track down. There is no obvious track but keep the beech trees and the gulley close to your right and you will be fine. It was clear from the mud that a large number of sheep had came through here recently and I found them at the bottom where a gate appears and a steepish descent takes you to the red road. There were a few pairs of grey squirrels and 4 deer in these woods so keep your eyes open.
The sheep are interested in grazing not me, Knock Hill behind them

This road undulates which gives one a bit of variety instead of a normal flat road, passing pleasant farmland and nice scenic views from time to time.
You now drop down onto the main road and I thought this was the end of this stretch, apart from a short walk along a busy road. However, I should have read the guide a bit more carefully last night. But surprise, surprise the route takes you back up a steep climb, lungs going again, onto a high road past the caravan park. An even older guy than me passed me on the climb jogging, good on you mate.
The views from this road would be worth the effort on a clear air day.
You now reach Skelmorlie and go past some very nice properties a mixture of Victorian mansions and new properties, clearly money not a major issue here. A steep descent down the hill brings you to the end of walk signpost.
Too hazy for a great view
Across the main road there is the ferry/rail terminal of Wemyss Bay, do go across and look at the quality of this iconic station. For gents pop into the toilets, immaculately clean but a throwback to the past, don't know about the ladies but might be similar.
Overall a short stretch which took me just over 3 hours.
For most people this is the end of the coastal path walk but I still have some of the southern section to do over the next few weeks.
The final sign

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