Sunday 8 February 2015

Ayrshire Coastal Path Portencross - Largs

I had hoped to complete the final northern section of the Ayrshire Coastal Path walk to Skelmorlie today but sadly time was against me so I compromised and walked half of it and to be fair I had a good time.
Portencross anchorage at low tide
I parked at Portencross castle car-park early in the morning, the frost was still on the ground and the northerly breeze made it a decidedly chilly. Went to pull up the zip on my base layer and realised I had put it on inside out when dressing in the darkness, that's what I get for trying not to wake up the Mrs!! Time for a quick and chilly striptease. The only other guy in the car-park was unloading a kayak, rather him than me, it would be cold out on the water.
The walk takes you along the front past some cottages and out onto a wide grassy area. The view across the sea has little Cumbrae in your vision for the stretch up-to Hunterston and plenty of sea-birds dotted around the water. 
An impressive dark cold looking cliff face is on your right which had a raven calling loudly. I hear other calling above me and in the clear blue sky I spot a skein of geese heading north, is this a sign that they think things are warming up here and are heading home? I hope so.
The road to Hunterston
The path is a bit muddy but fine for walking, the views are good, in particular Millport and Cumbrae, with the exception that Hunterston nuclear power station looms ahead. The sign outside the site tells outsiders that the principal objective is nuclear safety, which gives me visions of mysterious armed men suddenly turning up ready to shoot me. In some ways it does not seem that big a complex, you kind of expect a nuclear plant to be much larger. 
Boiling sea
As I go past the end of the complex and look out to sea the water is bubbling and boiling furiously. I assume that this is a discharge from the plant, a bit scary what is going into the sea? There has long been tales from fishermen of strange distorted fish caught in these waters, true or not I don't know.
As the path now curves back towards the main road the views are of the huge mudflats where a good number of Shelduck are feeding away. The huge Clydeport terminal is also in view with a ship being unloaded of its cargo of coal. These huge ships are bringing coal from South America which are then put on trains and transported to the Midlands. What is the carbon footprint of these journeys and it seems economic madness?
Fairlie bay
You now join a cycle path and the structured planting of the trees suggest that this was the road entrance to the estate in years gone by. The path goes alongside the main road for a spell which is a bit tedious but you soon reach Fairlie, where a nice small bay is spoilt by the large ore terminal. There is also a vast abandoned hole where they intended to build oil platforms but thankfully you can't see it from here. There are plenty of birds around to keep the ornithologists happy. In this short road spell there was the usual regulars but also included, brambling, reed bunting & buzzards.
Fairlie beach
In the bay the path cuts away from the road and runs behind the houses, some of them large mansions. I am lucky that the tide is out so I can beach walk this section. Easier on the feet as most of the walk so far has been on tarmac. Some nice apartments line the beach with good sized balconies to enjoy the views.
Back onto the main road for a while until you reach the cycle path at the Marina. There are some very impressive and no doubt very expensive boats here, all tightly packed in, a few million pounds worth here.
The Pencil
Shortly after leaving the marina you come to the Pencil monument which commemorates the battle of Largs in 1263 when the ruling Viking fleet arrived to take on a Scottish army. An important but not decisive battle as it was 3 years later that the Western coast of Scotland was signed over by the Vikings to the Scots.
It is now a stroll along Largs promenade, very busy today with locals and visitors enjoying the good weather. You can easily tell that Largs is a retirement town, more than a few grey hairdos around.

The views are still superb as I walk to the end of the promenade, passing the Cumbrae ferry, a 10 minute journey and one worth doing. You can also see in the distance ferries crossing to Dunoon and the Argyll peninsula.
I finish my section today where the signs direct you inland towards the high route to Skelmorlie.
The guide for this section indicates around 9 miles but my gps app tracker indicates my trip was nearly 12 miles, I must have done a bit of wandering about away from the track. All in all another good walk. Time for Nardini's for some warm food, it is not a day for their famous ice creams and then a bus back to the car.
I will get the Skelmorlie leg done over the coming week.
Arran from Portencross

Welcome to Hunterston

Largs marina

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