A fine sea cliff outing.....The Old Man of Stoer

Walk; Point of Stoer (Assynt)
Height: 360m
After my solo outing yesterday to Cul Beag it was time to keep the good lady pleased, well kind of. Today was the landing of Storm Francis but if the forecast was accurate our area was not going to be affected until mid afternoon and even then not as badly as the south.

That way

A study of the map brought this gem to my attention. I love sea cliff walks and this one had the added bonus of being the best walk in Assynt as a whale/dolphin hotspot so good to go. Yes dear, no problems a short straightforward walk!
A stunning drive, but not for the nervous as long stretches of twisting single track and hidden passing spots. A few screams and moans from the good lady, some directed at oncoming traffic, but we got there safely.
Blue skies and a beautiful spot. Binoculars and camera to the fore and off we went.
Beside the lighthouse the cliffs are a regular nesting spot but this late in the season it was only pairs of Fulmars that were roosting and not many of them. I imagine a few months ago it would have been bedlam. Still great viewing. 

Colourful rocks

I love the colour of the rocks below the water as well as the colour of the cliffs. Underwater it looks like pods of something growing away, a Dr Who episode maybe.

The track hugs the cliffs

There is a clear track which does go very close to the edge at times. Not advisable in these strong gusts, it is a long way down, so drift slightly inland. The first challenge for you know who, there is a steep grassy gully to be descended and reascended, not positive looks from the good lady but at least there were good steps cut, no scrambling.
The local crofting coos clearly like the path better than the moor as it was well churned up in places. A regular very deep hoof print, wonder if that is the bull?

Brave in this wind

When we reach the outcrop of Cirean Geardail some kids are scrambling across the top, brave them in the high winds.
Down below I spot an Artic Skua, a first for me for this predatory seabird. As we walk more appear and in the wind their aerobatics are admirable.

1st view of The Old Man of Stoer

Shortly after a slight climb and the Old Man is first spotted further along the coast and impressive it is. Who wants to climb you? Not me. I saw that a climber fell and is missing from a similar sea stack last week.

Looks easy!

A steep grassy descent is required to get close to the Old Man, yip more looks from you know who. 

Old ropes in the middle and on top

It is impressive and there are some old climbing ropes blowing in the wind in the middle and at the top. It is not just the climbing it is getting onto the stack in the turbulent sea. Nearby a similar stack has lost most of its structure from these pounding seas.

Sutherland

A gradual ascent to the trig with a few stops to take in the great views across to Sutherland and its mighty peaks. Trying to spot the ones I have been up.

Great view over Assynt for minimal effort

When we crested the hill the short ascent was well worth it as the views of the Assynt giants were spectacular. 

From left: Canisp; Suilven; Cul Mor; Cul Beag; Stac Pollaidh

It is only from this viewpoint that you see them lined up with the gaps in between and you can marvel at the glacial geology that created this outstanding landscape. Even with the dark storm front looming over them it is impressive. 

Not to be ignored the 3 Corbetts of Quinag

Once again another fantastic view for so little effort. And this trig does not even have Sub2k status, with these views it should have.

Lighthouse but where are the whales and dolphins?

We returned via the inland path back to the lighthouse where the height gave clear sea views over to Skye and the Western Isles.
A super little walk but despite it being prime season no whales or dolphins. Another excuse to return if one is needed.

Wildlife: Skua; Gannet; Cormorant: Fulmars; Rock Pipit; Raven; Hooded Crow.
Ascent: 336m
Distance: 6.6km
Time: 2.16

The views are more than cool from Cul Beag

Hill: Cul Beag (Small back)
Type: Corbett
Height: 769m

Having completed its big brother a few weeks ago I had to have a go at this one as the profile looking across from Cul Mor made Cul Beag look spectacular if not a bit daunting. Time to find out.
There are three main routes but not surprisingly I chose the easiest route as per Walkhighlands.
The weather forecast was excellent but the reality, where had these clouds come from? Hopefully passing through.

Cul Beag looks a long way from the start

The walk in is not overly long but it is not a particularly kind path. Initially it is a poor ATV track but that is the good bit. I passed some nice looking fishing lochs but probably not productive today on these alternating bright and cloudy conditions.
The on off boggy trail soon disappears after I have crossed the small fence and entered the moor proper.
Like Cul Mor, there are plenty of small cairns as indicators which at first sight seems positive but particularly on the descent were distracting as some seemed irreverent.
Looking at the first main climb it looks steep.
After the initial section the climb started briefly over the rocky slopes of Creag Dubh before becoming a heather clad ascent up the steep slopes of Meall Dearg. This ascent is mainly pathless although you do stumble across the odd track but don't expect any of these to last for long. 

In bad weather you could easily walk off some of these big drops

Just keep looking up to to the horizon and keep going upwards knowing the top will come soon.
Some superb rock structures on top of Meall Dearg show off the ice age pressures on this landscape and you stand on some patches of red sand. Hard to believe this was the earth level as we know down on the low sea level beaches we enjoy today.

First view of the top and the dangerous crags

Now I have a view of the the final section alongside the stunning blue waters of the sea and lochs that stand out ahead and below.

Lochan and the steps just visible

There is a drop of just under 100m down to the lochan where in spring apparently full of frogs. Now you get to climb the steeper slopes towards the summit of Cul Beag. The initial stages are the toughest but it does ease off and you can use the saltification steps to zig zag up the hill.

Stac Pollaidh

About 25 minutes later the cairn is spotted but when reached the WOW factor is the incredible views ahead over Stac Pollaidh and onwards to the sea and the Western Isles. Don't underestimate the vertigo as this cairn is next some extremely steep drops.

Wide View

The clouds had stayed away from the summit so I could bask in the glorious views of this fantastic country of ours. Where to stand, where to look? 

Cul Mor directly behind the cairn

Across the way the neighbouring Cul Mor and the ridge that I couldn't from see last time even though I was standing on it, looks magnificent.

Three Graham hills over there if you want a superb but airy ridge walk

If the views were not good enough even more enjoyment as a golden eagle appeared gliding over the top of me. By the time I had the camera out and focused it was already half way across to show off to the people on top of Stac Pollaidh, just magnificent.

Dropping back to the lochan and the short reclimb

On the way down I thought I spotted some movement, hopefully red deer, nope two legged type. There were deer droppings everywhere and I could scent them but did I see any, not one.

Coming off final slopes and the long moor trek ahead

The walk back seemed longer than the ascent but there was plenty to look at so never boring.
The first big climb since my travails on the Munros but glad to say all seemed normal, that was just a bad day.
It might be the runt of the twins but the terrain is certainly harder walking than Cul Mor. Stunning views and a day to remember.

Wildlife: Golden Eagle; Raven; Meadow Pipit; Curlew
Ascent: 802m
Distance: 11.3km
Time: 4.24

It might only be a titchy little hill but the views are outstanding.....Meall an Fheadain

Hill: Meall an Fheadain
Type: Sub2k
Height: 203m
The low lying clouds and general gloom around first thing were a threat to my original walking plan so I opted for a cycle first thing which in this terrain meant a lot of ups and downs, certainly tested the stamina.
After that I took the good lady in tow to prove that size is not everything. A slow drive through the stunning Assynt countryside took us to Altandhu. What a drive, spectacular peaks rising high, glorious lochs and lochans barely touched by fishermen and a resolve to cycle this road, it would be a stunner. Possibly later in the week if I can squeeze it in.

From parking walk the road first

The good lady likes a wee hill with a good track and it does not get easier than this Sub2k, ideal.
We parked at the T junction heading to Old Dornie. For an even quicker walk simply go right up the hillside in front of you but lots of bracken an heather which is not the good lady's option.

Campsite

Still, a short road walk alongside Loch Camus an Fheidh to the bungalows on the right. A cracking looking remote campsite over to the left, what views to wake up to.

The top in view

Now it is up the hard packed track to the mast. The route is lined with sheep and in the lower section the humidity brings a full on onslaught from the dreaded biting midge and biting they were. Even the good lady quickened her pace, caps swishing away and we both had repellent on but no good it was doing.
A pair of ravens were into their acrobatic flying, they seemed to be bonding, old or new I don't know but it was a good watch.

Assynt geology

Superb examples of Ice Age geologically layered rock strata, crushed and compressed by natural forces.
Thankfully we got into the breeze and the mast was reached. There is clearly regularly ascended by the campers and there is a short ascent via an obvious path through the purple heather clad slopes to the trig.

Summer Isles

What a vista greets you, quite breathtaking even on a hazy grey day like this. On a crisp winters day this must be one of the best views in Scotland, yes right up there.
Straight ahead is the rugged coastline with he Summer Isles close by, look further across the sea and it is the Western Isles.

Assynt landscape

Turn a little and if you can name an Assynt peak then you can see it. The icons of Suilven & Stac Polly. Cul Mor & Beag. Canisp and the three joined Corbetts of Quinag.
Take another turn and look into the distance and a variety of peaks of The Fannichs, An Teallach and much more.
Does it get better than that, not very often in my book.
There are options to make it a circular walk but it would involve a lot more road walking so we descended the same route. Not a bad option as you have great views all the way down.

Back to the car

On the way back to the car high pitched calling but could we see them then we did, at least 3 golden eagles again doing some cool flying, some snaps confirmed the outsized wings, tail and wing feathers, super happy. I want to stay here, this is heaven. Noticed a house for sale!
A magnificent short walk and the good lady agrees that size is not everything.

Wildlife: Golden Eagle; Raven; Meadow Pipit; Hooded Crow; Wheatear; Lesser Black Backed Gull; Black Backed Gull; Red Grouse; Mallard Duck.
Ascent: 218m
Distance: 6.7km
Time: 1.52

Hot and bothered on a scorching hot day....Beinn a Bheithir the mountain with 3 names

Hills: Sgorr Dhearg (Red Peak) (1024m), Sgorr Dhonuill (1001m), aka Beinn a'Bheithir
Type: Munros x 2

After yesterdays enjoyable walk in the sun, the forecast today was for another hot one. This is a tough walk at the best of times but with the added heat factor I was both looking forward to it and apprehensive, not without foundation as it turned out.
Beinn a'Bheithir is the mountain and dramatically named The Hill of the Thunderbolt. The mountain has two distinct peaks hence the double Munro status. 
This is an excellent ridge walk, once you get there, but it is from sea level with steep gradients throughout so you get to climb every metre of it.
We were a small group so we made the extremely wise decision to leave a couple of cars at the golf course thus reducing our final walk by 3-4km.

Grassy ascent, Sgorr Bhan to left, still more to climb after that

We started from the visitor centre in Ballachullish and headed to the school and then the grassy field that starts this route via the Schoolhouse Ridge. On the lower slopes there are no tracks, wander through a field, thankfully without its livestock and then the fun begins. Walkhighlands describes this section as 'tough and exhausting', throw in the heat and I have no issues with that description. Already the humidity was very high and I was sweating buckets, this was serious hard work and we had only begun.

Breather time, The Pap of Glencoe looking pointed and below us already

Every time I looked up there seemed to be a long way to go and when you looked back the views showed how high you had climbed and quickly.
Relief when we reached a fence where there should be a track of sorts. A slightly lowered section of wire suggested this was the crossing and we did indeed find a boggy series of steps which eventually became a stony path on a more gentle route but I was not feeling good at all which sadly continued all walk so a very tough day. A tummy upset before the walk didn't help and I am sure that on these initial stages I went into my red zone too quickly and just could not get the energy back on this unrelenting ascent.

Looking down the Schoolhouse ridge to Loch Leven. Looks high but another 200m of ascent to go!

From a plateau there are excellent views back down and time for a short rest. As we break an immature peregrine falcon glides across at eye level, stunning. 

Schoolhouse Ridge ahead, this green bit the only flat section of the ascent

But it is the ridge ahead that now takes the eye. This becomes an on off scree walk, rough on the feet, rocks sliding underfoot and never-ending. With relief a small cairn is reached but this is just Sgorr Bhan, a Munro top and tempered by the knowledge that the next ascending ridge is the climb to Sgorr Dhearg. 

Finally Sgorr Dhearg top ahead, track can be seen on the left

Some excellent views at times but not for long. Frustratingly there is a small descent before the seemingly long haul up to the ruined trig and a summit bagged. Second frustration was that the cloud had descended so we could not see the way ahead to Munro number two.
Another awkward stony descent, dropping almost 300 metres, did not do my morale much good.

Other side of Sgorr Dhearg, almost 300m descent

We stopped on the Bealach for lunch and it was honest decision time. Fatigue and fluids the consideration. Our plan A had been to continue up Dhonuill and then over another ridge to descend down a scree slope from there but that made it a much longer walk. Most of the group were also now concerned about fluids, both the amount we were losing and the quantity we had left. Added to that the fatigue factor, me right up there. So decision made to do Munro two and return to this point and head down from here knowing there was a burn alongside the track.

Sgurr Dhonuill ahead, of course it is the bit hidden in the cloud

Now, like most people we have had the odd bad day on the hills but my breathing was really struggling and my head had pressured with lots of echoing noises, really weird. That red zone deficit factor had kicked in. Initially I felt good again but about two thirds of the way up I thought I was going to have to abandon this ascent. I have never failed to get to the top of a hill but I feared this was going to be the one. However, even though I say it myself with real grit and determination I plodded on to the summit. 

That's the exposed scrambly bit to the top

The top from below is a proper cone, a pointed top, which looks daunting. It doesn't help that the path disappears and scrambling is required for a short section and at times the path is exposed. Strangely I felt better on the scramble than the plod. Once the top is reached it is surprisingly large open space and again for us the on off clouds had descended so yet another no summit view. Anyway, realised later I had been too knackered to take a snap. Two girls appeared with mini dogs having scrambled up the scree slopes we had originally planned to descend, they looked far too fresh, oh to be young!!
The heat and humidity was still oppressive and about to go up several notches as we descended into the glen. When we got to the cold water we had  longed for that was some of the pressure off. A very welcome hatful of ice cold water was poured over my head, initial shock but huge relief. The stuff in the bottle, delicious.
This descent is pretty boggy and heads to a deforested section which initially looks like big trouble. The track goes high, more climbing, them the unseen path meanders through the tree debris before entering the trees with the odd direction marker to stop you wandering about forest tracks for ever. Initially a welcome coolness in the trees but the humidity regained control, boy oh boy, I have never sweated so much on a walk. It would have been interesting to have been weighed before and after, a few kilos gone for sure.

The descent keeping high of the deforested zone for most of it.

A long wooded section and then a nice surprise as there were the cars sooner than expected.
Afterwards I read Cameron McNeish's route and he advocates coming up our descent then up one, down again and up the other, definitely an easier trip.
Yesterday I felt great and today I felt absolutely out of sorts for whatever reason. That was a hard, hard day. With reflection I will be proud of it but not right now.

Wildlife: Peregrine falcon; Meadow Pipit; Meadow Brown; Small White
Ascent: 1474m
Distance: 13.5km
Time: 7.25m

Not as rocky as it's name suggests...Beinn a'Chrulaiste

Hill: Beinn a'Chrulaiste (Rocky Hill) 
Type: Corbett
Height: 857m

A weekend walking in Glencoe and to get things started this hill was long overdue being scratched off my to do list.
Weather forecast was for a hot day noon onwards so an early start. Gosh it seems so long since I was up this road. During lockdown, when stuck at home, I remember saying to the good lady that I would never moan about the Green Welly again, just to be there and today I was. 
Despite this early start I just crammed my car into the back of a parking layby not sure if I would have a ticket on my return for semi verge parking. The large number of cars were not for my hill but the big beast of Buachaille Etive Mor across the road.

View from the start head up left hand side of the peak

A short walk back south along the West Highland Way before cutting in and following a fence up a boggy track. The initial peak looks daunting from here.
There is not a lot to say about the first half of the ascent. There is an on off boggy track. Follow it for a short stretch then it disappears. Wade up the moor and if you are lucky you find it again and keep repeating this until after a few false tops you reach the area of the peak you looked up at earlier.

Cairn at Stob Beinn a'Chrulaiste looking to the real top

Already super views of the Glencoe hills, a good excuse to stop and take it in.
Another uphill stretch and I reached the cairn which is Stob Beinn a'Chrulaiste, a peak but still far from the top. It is not far distance wise but it has been a steep 300m plus ascent. The initial section had been in the shade, albeit still very warm. Now full on and I was perspiring, the flies seem to like my sweat.

Stunning Buachaille Etive Mor,

One of this hills attractions is the close up views you get of the Buachaille, particularly the climbers tracks that you don't see from the road.
Back to the job in hand and the real top of Chrulaiste can be seen as the big flat lump ahead, don't like the big grey cloud hanging over it. it seemed sensible to head for the higher ground and avoid the peat hags but a surprise was in store. 

A couple of the males, I have been spotted

I reached a rock and spotted some big male wild goats, not very far away, giving me the evil eye. Big horns, those could do some damage. I heard a noise behind me and realised I was amongst a herd of about 40 goats, To my left all the mothers and kids. To my right the big boys. Being piggy in the middle I made my way past them at a reasonable pace.
Zig zagging to avoid the peat hags I spotted another herd, this time red deer. I was downwind but they had a visual on me so watched until I disappeared from their view. 

Finally it earns it's name a rocky section

There are a few rocky stone sections as you head to the top but easily bypassed via grassy rakes.
Finally the summit, a decent cairn shelter surrounds a round pillar trig. 1 hour 25m to the top so good going. There is a small cairn further along the ridge.

The Mamores and Blackwater reservoir

Extensive views across the huge Blackwater reservoir and on to Rannoch moor but the haze hides Schiehallion.
Again in haze but splendid are the Mamores, the Grey Corries but big Ben is hidden. My plan to spend some time here was spoiled by the midgies who decided to feed on me big time.
Time to get back in the breeze and get rid of the beasties. 

The top of Glencoe

The descent is spectacular as you have the Glencoe peaks to admire as well as the Devils staircase of the West Highland Way.

A male goat surveys the landscape, Buachaille Etive Beag in background

Once again, on off tracks but as visibility was good so there was no issues about where I was going. Back through the goat herd but they seemed less agitated about my presence.

Finally the fence line and back to the start

Back to the heat and humidity of the road section and onto the car. No ticket!
It took me a while to get around to it but glad I did.

Wildlife: Meadow Pipit; Raven; Wild Goats; Red Deer; Scotch Argus butterfly.
Ascent: 638m
Distance: 7.5km
Time: 2.52

Donald raid in the Borders

Hill: Broad Law (840m), Cramalt Craig (831m), Talla Cleugh Head (691m).
Type: Corbett/Donald

After my recent northern exploits it was time to head south and add some more Donalds. I had intended to complete the Donalds this year but Covid stuffed that so more likely to be early next year.
A beautiful early morning drive showed these rolling hills at their best, what a morning, highly motivated for this walk.
I had several options for today's route but would not finally decide until Broad Law had been climbed. One consideration was that if I did complete my original circuit there is the 5km tarmac walk in a valley on a hot day, not the best finish.

Meggat stone, head up right side of fence

The weather was glorious as we set off from the Meggat Stone, a boundary marker sitting on the watershed of Peeblesshire and Selkirkshire. Please note parking limited to maximum 3 cars.
there are no navigation issues on this walk, even on a bad weather day, as there is a fence to follow all the way.

Cairn Hill cairn in view

The walk begins with an initial steep pull, boggy at times but not as bad as feared, up to the joint cairns, Shepherds cairn, just below Cairn hill. 

Shepherds cairn

The nearby shepherds cairn sits behind a deer fence but there is another large cairn on the hill.
Just off the track is the spur to the Donald, Talla Cleugh Head, an option for the descent.

Middle section (Porridge) and heading towards the aerial 

The steepest section Broad Law is over, now it is an easy gradient, 2km, all the way to the top, excellent walking in this weather. The middle section is known as Porridge cairn, there must be a story there. An aerial top peaks up on the horizon, another helpful guide. An on/off ATV track helps the walking. Broad Law is the second highest hill in the Southern Uplands and counts as both a Corbett and a Donald.

Broad Law cairn & aviation structure

The horrible huge aviation control building is the dominant feature as you crest the top. This is used by air traffic control for planes flying into Edinburgh.
however, there are superb views all round.
At a right angle the cairn can be seen on Cramalt Craig, our next stop. 

Follow another fence to Cramalt Craig

We headed towards another aerial before making a very steep descent. After that it was an easier gradient ascending to the cairn at Cramalt Craig. This used to be a Corbett until remeasured. The aforementioned descent was 146m and needed to be 150m for Corbett status. So for 4m it is now an ordinary Donald, albeit the 3rd highest of that category and just 9m lower than Broad Law. Again a fence and the ATV track make it easy navigation.

View from Cramalt cairn looking at the Culter Hills

Time for a spot of food and take in the spectacular views. All the Manor hills, Broughton and Culter hills close by. In the far distance two prominent small peaks stand out, the Eildons at Melrose. At times the purple heather covered moors were so vibrant.
My original plan was to go on to Dollar Law but for various reasons, not least the prospect of that road walk on a very hot day, so we retraced our steps. This time the ascent back to Broad Law is up the steeper gradient and it was noticeably harder work, a couple of short breather stops.

The spur of Talla Cleugh Head

On the descent from Broad Law the back up plan came into action and I decided to tick off Talla Cleugh Head. It is an outlying spur of Broad Law but it just has the required descent and reascent to make it a Donald in its own right and not just a Donald top.
This time it is a very big deer fence to follow (never saw any of them today). We walked on the right/east side of the fence where it was quite boggy and lots of peat hags but ok to cross. Nevertheless, in a short time the top was reached. There is no cairn or trig marker here but we went through the fence gate and came across a small pile of embedded wood, the top? Gps indicated it was indeed the highest point.

Talla reservoir

The views from here, looking down to Talla reservoir, confirmed you were a significant height up and if you climbed it from down there you would have no doubt about its Donald category. The hills from the Games Hope Burn looked imposing but there are 3 Donalds to be tagged so I will be doing them soon.
Reversed our route but went the other side of the fence, a better track and much drier.
Back to the shepherds cairn and an enjoyable descent to the cars with views looking down the Meggat reservoir.
A lovely day for a change made this good walk even better. Got a lot on over the next couple of months but I will make time for more of these Border hills.

Wildlife: Buzzard; Raven; Meadow Pipit; Song Thrush; Scotch Argus butterfly.
Ascent: 882m
Distance: 16.1km
Time: 5.17