Goatfell Arran

Goatfell from Brodick

Blaming Euro 16 I had not been out for a walk for a few weeks so with the forecast looking good I had pencilled in Goatfell. Then the day before son number 1 turned up, we went out for a meal and a few beers thus changing my plans.
However, the next morning I woke feeling okay so grabbed a quick cup of tea, threw a few things in the rucksack and headed to Ardrossan for the later than planned 9.40 ferry. This would offload me at Brodick about 10.45. I wanted to get up and down Goatfell in time to catch the 16.40 ferry back as the next ferry was not until after 7pm, a wait I could do without.

The ferry was on time and after a black pudding/fried egg roll & coffee onboard I ventured up and spent the crossing outside. Good decision as I briefly spotted a pair of porpoises skimming the waves alongside our boat.
At Brodick I decided I had the time to do the full walk starting from the ferry. There is an option to get a bus saving a couple of miles each way, maybe take it after the descent I was thinking. My usual stop at the Coop for their meal deal and off I went.
The walk along Broddick shorefront on this warm day gave me great views of the Goatfell and anticipation heightened. The route I would normally take along the shore and alongside the golf course was closed for construction work so it was more or less the main road along to Claddach with a brief shortcut through the golf course.

At Claddach turn in at the Arran brewery and the walk starts proper from here. The initial uphill stretch is through the grounds of Brodick Castle although if you see it you have missed the route. There are signposts and so long as you don't take any of the left or right turns you can't go wrong, although I did on the descent, more later.

Lower track

The track is good but narrow through the trees with the benefit that you do get the occasional glimpse of Goatfell. There were a few people around today, probably because it was the only really good forecasted day of the week. 
I was already sweating away, a mixture of the heat, effort and last nights beer. At the bridge and deer gate, about 250 metres, paused for a break, water intake as dehydration was a possibility today, look back and enjoy the views back to Brodick and Holy Isle. About a third of the way up.

Middle section

The middle stretch is open moorland countryside. The 'path' is fairly hard going as it is now mostly rocks and boulders which necessitate a high foot lift, the front thighs will be sore tomorrow. However it is a good restoration by the National Trust and its volunteers. Looking ahead I can spot the occasional spot of colour, walkers amidst the boulder strewn terrain. Because of the rocky terrain you need to keep looking at your next step so enjoying the view is limited. However at one look up I spotted the familiar huge shape of a golden eagle gliding below the summit, circling a few times then swinging West over the tops not to be seen by me again.
Surprisingly I was moving well and had overtaken a few people and was heading for the horizon to the point near Meall Breac, about 600 metres, where the route takes a sharp left and the steepest section beckons.
Around this point a runner comes past me descending at an alarmingly fast pace, brave man. The record for the annual run is around an hour and a quarter, the physical effort going up is admirable enough but the descent at speed on this stuff, unbelievable. A light wind is blowing up here but enough to make me put on the windproof jacket.

Holy Isle

The ant trail of walkers ahead of me has grown as the gradient takes it toll and the pace slows down dramatically. There is no obvious path just finding the best route up the smallest boulders to step on. I am now regretting last nights beer and good food, it is tough going, thirty steps then thirty seconds rest, sort of thing. Also a serious wind starts blowing which on tired legs on this granite is not welcomed. A gust blows my baseball hat off, thankfully into the rocks and not down the gully, so it is retrieved but stuffed into pocket. It lasts about 10 minutes but interesting if you were on an exposed ledge.

Cir Mhor

Then you notice the gradient has eased a bit and thankfully this is the summit area. You need to wander about a bit to get the views but they are absolutely stunning and fully worth the effort. They say that Arran is Scotland in miniature and these views remind me of Skye, rocky peaks and gullies, just breathtaking. Other Corbett's, Casteal Abhail and Cir Mhor stand out in clear the air. Four ravens swoop and play above us. They intrude in a couple of my snaps, makes them looking like a mark on the lens but I know what they are. The path to North Goatfell and the Saddle from Corrie stands out. I can see 3 pairs of walkers at different points.

North Goatfell

I eat my sandwiches just soaking the view in, a herring gull lands on a rock, staring at me, will he give me a scrap or not it thinks? The ravens 'caw' overhead. On a day like this you don't want to leave but I do have a ferry to catch. The descent is obviously quicker but is also sore on the legs.

My one issue comes at the bridge where I met up with a walker and he asked if we were on the right track. Surprised at this I reply yes and a woman walking her dog assures us we are on the right track. However after about half a mile we realise we are too high up entering the forest. The OS map indicates the track would eventually loop back but we take no chances and we re-track back to the bridge where somehow we missed the fairly obvious route marker to the other path. Tiredness or just lack of concentration, I don't know but a good reminder all the same.

A good descent and I walked back to Brodick, stopping for a welcoming ice cream cone, large, and I made the ferry with 30 minutes to spare.
According to the GPS I walked 12.48 miles (can be shortened by 4 miles if buses used) and climbed 2944 feet. Goatfell, a Corbett, is a better achievement than many Munros as it starts from sea level climbing to its official height of 874 metres. It was tough walk but the views are certainly worthwhile and as good as they come.
Time for that beer.

Rahoy Hills - Black Water River- Gleann Dubh

I had completed my 30 mile cycle this morning along the stunning Sound of Mull so I was looking for an easy but interesting walk and boy did I find one. Our cottage in Ardtornish had a folder with some short walks so we chose this one as Mrs would be accompanying me so not a long one.
The following details are taken from the Rahoy website and saves me typing:

There are excellent views on route of the surrounding hills of Braigh Uladail to the east and Meall Achadh a’ Chuirn and Monadh Meadhoin to the west, and Meall Lochan nan Lorg, Mam na Cѐire, Meall a Chaise, Tom Aonghais, Beinn Bhan and Beinn nam Beathrach to the north. 

The route passes through Atlantic oakwood, open heath and grassland. These Atlantic oak woodlands, designated as a Special Area of Conservation, support diverse assemblages of lichens, mosses and liverworts, as well as a species rich ground flora, dominated by the compactly tufted purple moor grass (Molinia caerulea), interspersed with hard fern (Blechnum spicant), male and butler ferns (Dryopteris spp ).    Calluna-Erica-Vaccinium assemblages dominate the open areas of the hillside, with bog myrtle (Myrica gale), bog asphodel (Narthecium ossifragum), cotton grass (Eriophorum angustifolium) and heath spotted orchids (Dactylorhiza maculata) in the wetter areas.  Look out for patches of insectivorous sundews (Drosera spp) and butterwort (Pinguicula vulgaris), as well as the mixed bryophyte communities in the boggy areas.   There are also intricate patchworks of lichens on boulders and outcrops.

Look out for golden eagle, buzzard, golden plover, greenshank, stonechat, skylark and red deer in the hills and heath.  Listen out for tree pipit, flycatchers, redstart, redpoll, wood warbler, siskin and greater spotted woodpecker in the woodlands.  Look for dippers and otters in fast flowing sections of the river.  Along the route seek out the tracks and signs of pine marten, wildcat, short-eared owl and fox. Overall, a good place for seeking out wildlife associated with hills, mountains, heath, woodland and rivers.

The route is a mixture of gentle ascents with flat sections along a well-defined track. 

It was already 20 plus degrees when we parked the car and made our way up the initial section which is a gradual steady climb on a decent path. Already good views of the Rahoy Hills particularly the flanks of Meall Achadh a'Chuirn on our left, a few sheep grazing the steep slopes. An excellent variety of trees some of which we could actually identify. 

Black Water river

There was a constant display by brown/orange dragonflies, blue damsels abound. Strange as these blue ones only get seen on my trout water at the end of summer. Patches of cotton grass sway in the gentle breeze. 

Cotton grass

Disappointingly not much birdlife in the trees. We spotted the occasional chaffinch and blue tit as well as a dipper in the river but not a lot else. No raptors the entire walk, very disappointed in that.

U formed hill view

Further along the track there were pools of water drying out. In one were about 20 tadpoles but with no forecast of rain the future was not looking good for them.

Stranded tadpoles

Just as we left the trees a cuckoo flew past going into them. At one point we had 3 different males calling. Over the last month cuckoo's calling has been a constant for me, no shortage of these males.

Meandering Black Water River

Once out of the treeline there is a real feeling of large scale wilderness only marked by the Black River meandering through the glen. Although wide spaced there is still a feeling of enclosure, not threatening but a real sense of isolation. 

Then I spot movement on the ridge of Beinn Chlaonleud, get out the binos and yes there is a solitary stag looking into the glen, at us I don't know but pretend so. As it turned out the only one we saw all day.

As we cross the old bridge over the river small brown trout can be seen moving across the rocky bottom, I don't think these will have seen many artificial flies.

Mountain other side of Loch Sunart peeks over

The walk heads towards a ruined homestead and the views north are spectacular and rugged. These apparently bare, stony hills come together to give you a U shaped perspective, quite stunning. No doubt before the clearances many families made a hard living here but now not a sole bar us. We walk on towards a more modern house at Crosben (a place name on the OS map), empty but looking in reasonable condition, I wonder if it is an estate shooting lodge.

Barren countryside

Our walk description ends here and it was enough for the Mrs. The return is by the same route.

The old and modern

However, later whilst relaxing with a well deserved beer (Jarl) I was studying the OS map which shows a low level trail continuing further up the glen heading north then east to eventually join up with the road to Lochaline/Loch Sunart. I also spotted a couple of hill lochs worth a diversion from the track and will explore with my travel rod on my next visit.

Golden-ringed butterfly

On the way back we had some great close views of Golden-ringed dragonflies, big, the female is the UK's longest dragonfly. Then on the track a pearl-bordered fritillary butterfly wings spread sunning itself.

Pearl-bordered fritillary

The distance was just under 6 miles with only 300 foot of elevation but boy it seemed like the walk was wort much more. Do it if you can.

Mrs had enough heading home

Great Glen Way Clunes - Laggan

After an overnight stay in Fort William we had a free morning so we decided to walk another stretch of the Great Glen Way (from now on known as GGW). The good lady would drive me to my last finishing point at Clunes, walk some of it with me, return and take the car to the other end at Laggan.
Another bright but breezy day saw us head down the track. There is a warning that this section to Laggan locks is in a remote location without any households and as I found out no phone signal. Also the main Inverness road is at the other side of Loch Lochy. Don't break an ankle.

The first section

The route guidance suggests taking the lower section where there is a good forest track all the way. If you were going to take in the mountains then I understand the higher path is better for you.
The first two miles or so are through woodlands with the occasional glimpses of the hills on the left and the loch on your right. As well as good views back to the Nevis range.

Nevis Range

Because there is a reasonable gap between the trees the track is not dark and oppressive like some other woodland sections. If you are into the fauna these are plentiful and varied with plenty of insect life to keep you interested.
We met our 1st person of the day, a German who had completed the West Highland Way and was now doing the GGW camping as he went.

Typical early section

Mrs headed back and I soon broke out of the trees into a super viewing section, lochs and mountains. A brief stop for a good look around with the binos. There looks like 3 different mountains at this point and over the top of the 1st mountain (either Meall Coire Lochain or Meall Na Teanga) came a golden eagle gliding on the thermals but an excellent clear and unmistakeable sighting through the binos. Then it spiralled down landing on the mountainside. I presume it had spotted some carrion as it was not an attacking dive as if after a hare or suchlike. On each of the next two hills I could see an single stag munching near the high tops, I would not have noticed these through eyesight alone.

Eagle mountain

A couple of quite elderly people biked past heading south and although briefly smiled made no attempt to stop. Full panniers so maybe doing the whole route as well. I then met up with a couple of Germans also heading south. They were enjoying this section of the GGW but not very complimentary about the Loch Ness section, a deforested bleakness with no loch views. Told them about the eagle about half a mile back so they headed off and would take a food break and watch, I hope they saw it.

Looking north about half way

I pass a new toilet block but this is only an available function if you have a key which might be part of a canoe route. It is beside an overnight camping beach. A bit odd to have this facility but only available to a select few. Not a bad place to stop, get the rod out and find a few brown trout for supper. I believe Loch Lochy is a free fishing water.

Canoe section noticeboard

Further on I meet 4 English walkers, one of whom was astonished that I had seen an eagle, they exist here was the question!! Well yes they do, just look up. They were more interested in sighting a pine martin and were disappointed when I said that in all my years of walking I had seen every Scottish predator on numerous occasions but never that one. Still you never know.

Kilfinnan view of Ceann Loch

The rest of the walk to Laggan Locks is straightforward, nothing to get too excited about just enjoy the day. A few lodges at Kilfinnan which would be a good base if hillwalking. 2 more mountain bikers going south. Then I do come across some very black scat on the path, fresh as well as a dung beetle is investigating. Could it be the scat of the elusive pine martin?
The view of the Locks area is a nice contrast to the track, green fields, yellow gorse, sheep and the boats. There is also some activity on the canal water. A few different canoeists about to set off. There is a barge docked here (The Eagle) which seems to be a pub but too early for me.

The canal stretch to the Laggan Swing Bridge is actually more of a wooded river walk than a canal, nothing too interesting and then I finish at the road crossing at Loch Oich. There were 3 boats coming down from the north so I sit on the grass and watch the swing-bridge open to let them through. Exciting life I lead. Waves all round from the crews.

Loch Oich Laggan Swing Bridge

Walk over for the day. Just under 10 miles, not much excitement but I did enjoy it. My next GGW stretch will be from here to Fort Augustus. 
Now we are heading for Lochaline for a few days outdoor fun, more on next blogs.