Tuesday 7 June 2016

Great Glen Way Clunes - Laggan


After an overnight stay in Fort William we had a free morning so we decided to walk another stretch of the Great Glen Way (from now on known as GGW). The good lady would drive me to my last finishing point at Clunes, walk some of it with me, return and take the car to the other end at Laggan.
Another bright but breezy day saw us head down the track. There is a warning that this section to Laggan locks is in a remote location without any households and as I found out no phone signal. Also the main Inverness road is at the other side of Loch Lochy. Don't break an ankle.
The first section
The route guidance suggests taking the lower section where there is a good forest track all the way. If you were going to take in the mountains then I understand the higher path is better for you.
The first two miles or so are through woodlands with the occasional glimpses of the hills on the left and the loch on your right. As well as good views back to the Nevis range.
Nevis Range
Because there is a reasonable gap between the trees the track is not dark and oppressive like some other woodland sections. If you are into the fauna these are plentiful and varied with plenty of insect life to keep you interested.
We met our 1st person of the day, a German who had completed the West Highland Way and was now doing the GGW camping as he went.
Typical early section
Mrs headed back and I soon broke out of the trees into a super viewing section, lochs and mountains. A brief stop for a good look around with the binos. There looks like 3 different mountains at this point and over the top of the 1st mountain (either Meall Coire Lochain or Meall Na Teanga) came a golden eagle gliding on the thermals but an excellent clear and unmistakeable sighting through the binos. Then it spiralled down landing on the mountainside. I presume it had spotted some carrion as it was not an attacking dive as if after a hare or suchlike. On each of the next two hills I could see an single stag munching near the high tops, I would not have noticed these through eyesight alone.
Eagle mountain
A couple of quite elderly people biked past heading south and although briefly smiled made no attempt to stop. Full panniers so maybe doing the whole route as well. I then met up with a couple of Germans also heading south. They were enjoying this section of the GGW but not very complimentary about the Loch Ness section, a deforested bleakness with no loch views. Told them about the eagle about half a mile back so they headed off and would take a food break and watch, I hope they saw it.
Looking north about half way
I pass a new toilet block but this is only an available function if you have a key which might be part of a canoe route. It is beside an overnight camping beach. A bit odd to have this facility but only available to a select few. Not a bad place to stop, get the rod out and find a few brown trout for supper. I believe Loch Lochy is a free fishing water.
Canoe section noticeboard
Further on I meet 4 English walkers, one of whom was astonished that I had seen an eagle, they exist here was the question!! Well yes they do, just look up. They were more interested in sighting a pine martin and were disappointed when I said that in all my years of walking I had seen every Scottish predator on numerous occasions but never that one. Still you never know.
Kilfinnan view of Ceann Loch
The rest of the walk to Laggan Locks is straightforward, nothing to get too excited about just enjoy the day. A few lodges at Kilfinnan which would be a good base if hillwalking. 2 more mountain bikers going south. Then I do come across some very black scat on the path, fresh as well as a dung beetle is investigating. Could it be the scat of the elusive pine martin?
The view of the Locks area is a nice contrast to the track, green fields, yellow gorse, sheep and the boats. There is also some activity on the canal water. A few different canoeists about to set off. There is a barge docked here (The Eagle) which seems to be a pub but too early for me.

The canal stretch to the Laggan Swing Bridge is actually more of a wooded river walk than a canal, nothing too interesting and then I finish at the road crossing at Loch Oich. There were 3 boats coming down from the north so I sit on the grass and watch the swing-bridge open to let them through. Exciting life I lead. Waves all round from the crews.
Loch Oich Laggan Swing Bridge
Walk over for the day. Just under 10 miles, not much excitement but I did enjoy it. My next GGW stretch will be from here to Fort Augustus. 
Now we are heading for Lochaline for a few days outdoor fun, more on next blogs.

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