Wednesday 5 August 2020

Would it be a pain in The Eastern Fannichs?

Hill: An Coileachan (923m); Meall Gorm (949m); Sgurr Mor (1110m); Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich (954m)
Type: Munros x 4
Height: n/a

After the two warm ups today was the big test. However, to go along with the tendon I had an upset stomach during the night and thought long and hard about cancelling but  bravado won over. Filled up on a small hotel brekkie and now as ready to go as I would ever be. Forecast very mixed with possible sunshine and possibly heavy showers. Whatever, a long day ahead, how prophetic that was to be.
From the start the hills look a long way away
By any standards this is a big day out but even when I prepared looking at it on the map etc I had not expected that we would be on the upper time plan. For our route we went against the norm and tackled these 4 Munros clockwise. Wise after the event, I was glad we did as I would categorise some of this round as brutal, going anti-clockwise would be even worse.
The notorious bridge
There is a very, very long walk in and out so be prepared. Our walk leader was using another persons route and explained at the start that those who had downloaded the Walkhighlands route on GPS we would not be following that so no unnecessary route comments. All well and good but sadly he made a mistake in heading for our 1st top that took us off direction and through some really rough terrain before we got back on track.
Munro number 1 An Coileachan, the highest point, still far away.
We had to cross a minor bridge which we found ok but then we followed the burn too long and ended up NW of a small lochan when we should have been east of Loch Gorm.
Loch Gorm
By the time we climbed the grassy slopes to Bealach Ban then up the scree slopes to summit 1, An Toileachan, I was feeling a bit bushed but delighted to now have a ridge walk rather than the moorland we had struggled with. Probably at least an hour plus behind schedule in getting to this top.
On the ridge the weather was a mixture of everything. Some sun, some very heavy showers but a constant very strong and bitterly cold north wind.
Munro 2, Meall Gorm, looking back down the Bealach Ban
It is also a ridge where there is a lot of stone scree to negotiate, really awkward walking, which at times played havoc with my tendon.
Without the strong winds and scree it was a reasonable walk to summit 2, Meall Gorm.
From Meall Gorm the ridge to Sgurr Mor
The highest peak of the round was right in front of us, Sgurr Mor at 1110m, a biggie. It looked it from here. A descent then a climb followed by a second steeper climb. 
Lung burning steep slope
On the second section my energy levels were way down and in terms of physical effort this was really tough. It didn't help that on the last section there was the heaviest rain and winds, driving in, it really felt almost winter. Some very steep crags near the path so care required particularly with these winds.
Looking back to Sgurr Mor from the stalkers path
Finally another ridge walk over to our last Munro, Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich. A stalkers path took us so far but this top is totally surrounded by shingle boulders.
Loch Broom from Munro 4 BLMF
As the saying goes 'they thought it was all over' but far from it. We could see the cars but they looked a million miles away. By now everyone just wanted this to end. The descent side was full on boulder scree and descending was torturously slow trying to find any grass areas. You would not want to be coming up this way through this stuff.
Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich  and its descent slopes, 
After clearing that there is a long walk across boggy moorland to negotiate before getting back to a track. The cars are still the best part of an hour from here.
The 5 westerly Fannichs are a greater walking height, 400m more of ascent but they are an easier round. This was brutal at times and I don't say that lightly and it was not just my opinion. A couple of weeks ago Beinn a Ghlo was about the same height of ascent but 4 hours quicker.
This was a very long day on the hills but that was expected. The terrain less so and progress was painfully slow at times.
Granted some of the views were undoubtedly stunning but I suspect that this was a once in a lifetime for me. Been there. done it, memories but no return.
My feet are sore, my tendon did well but is aching, the midgies are biting and the beer shop is now closed!

Wildlife: Ptarmigan; Red Grouse; Red deer hind: Meadow Pipit; Frog; Lizard
Ascent: 1530m
Distance: 26.4km
Time: 11.45

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