Walk: Speyside Way
Route: Ballindalloch – Grantown on Spey
By the standards of many other long distance walk sections this is relatively straightforward but for the Speyside Way this would be described as the Queens stage. That is a cycling term for the hardest or most difficult section. For sure it is the longest section if you exclude the optional Tomintoul loop and it has the most ascent of any section so it deserves its description. The ascent is undulating with several short steep sections rather than a full on climb.
Using public transport was not really an option so the good lady drove me to the start at Ballindalloch. A couple of overnighting camper vans were in the small parking area, the smell of bacon wafting around. Enticing but it was not for us and anyway I had eaten back at the hotel.
The last time I had been at this spot was when I cycled the previous stage and would have turned for the return cycle. It was clear from the route description that cycling much of this section was not an option and indeed that was the case.
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| Now a private house |
An early morning stroll for just over a mile along the old railway line was amazing for the variety of singing birds. A woodpecker was hammering away, from the noises clearly changing trees but I could not spot it. Yet again Jays were calling another regular feature of my Moray rambles. The usual suspects were amongst the singing mixture but also included a male Blackcap. A flash of movement caught my eye flashing through the trees. Obviously a raptor it was a stunning chestnut brown. Sadly I did not see any other distinguishing marks. It was probably a buzzard but it looked smaller and flew faster than expected but not aware of any other raptor than could be so brown. The Spey was in sight alongside this section but despite the name of the walk I would not see it too often.
Turning left and taking a route towards the main road I was now in the first of the many fenced in sections that have been installed to keep walkers away from livestock, mainly cattle, more on this later. I met a couple of foreign walkers who were on a self sustained trip roughly based on the Moray trail. As it turned out they were the only walkers I met until the Abernethy forest near Grantown.
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| Buzzard approaching |
Out onto fields and scrub, it was a potentially muddy section with walk boards to assist. Pheasants ran around and a pair of buzzards were on the hunt, I presume a pheasant is too big for them, maybe not as from the pheasants reactions they were taking no chances.
Crossed the A95 where there was a faint trail to follow, some light trees shielded me from the road traffic.
The track left the road heading up to the Garvault plantation. As I climbed I spotted a brown hare lopping around, it saw me and headed to some long reeds where it hunkered down.
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| Garvault plantation |
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| Not really sure why it is this weird design |
I also encountered my 1st set of chain gates. Unique to me and I didn’t fully understand the benefit of them. As a walker they were awkward to get through. Easily 30+ of them.
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| Nice to fet a break in the trees for a view |
Up through the trees until I came to an old but very wide forest track. A pleasant saunter until I met the indicator which sent me steeply back down.
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| Brief view of the Cromdale hills |
Across some scrubland where it was nice to have views of the Cromdale hills before heading back up and into another plantation, the Woods of Knockfrink. There is a lot of forest plantation walking on this rambler, just me and the trees so be warned. I spotted another raptor flying through the trees, much narrower wings so either a Sparrowhawk or better still a Goshawk. Once again just a quick sighting and far enough away in the trees to recognise any features other than shape.
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| Heading to farmland for a few miles |
I left these trees to head through Meiklepark Wood before heading down to Mains of Dalvey Farm. Again hemmed in by fencing and chain gates it was bizarre. Short sections would then open up to a section of open field to cross so if any livestock was around you were still walking through them.
A lot of the fencing was derelict and unmaintained by the farmer and at one point two only days old lambs were inside. Two young to move out of my way. The ewe was getting distressed so I had to do a loop across the field agitating other ewes and lambs but not as close walking as the 1st pair.
The walking was really awkward in the narrow confines and I was keeping my eye on a herd of cows and youngsters who were well aware of my presence but far enough away to not be agitated. Of course at the end of their field I had to leave the fence safety and go through their field for a short section.
The next narrow section now had me on full alert as there were fresh coo pats in the metre wide walkway, the joys.
At the next turn I headed downhill where another field of cows and calves had spotted me. I had to turn and walk alongside the fence, extremely flimsy I thought and the mothers were starting to circle and staring at me. I was edgy as I contoured very close to them, even more so when I saw that the fence had been flattened so not even that protection.
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| There only looks a few of them the rest are in ambush mode |
Eyes down I got past them and turned the zig zag where I saw the gates I had to go through was right beside a feeding station and more cows and calves were staring at me. The calves looked days old as well and 3 of them were right at the gate. They were on the other side but the mothers were right alongside the fence and were now getting agitated at seeing me, mooing loudly the rest joining in. the farmer knew what he was doing when he sited that feeding station, a few swear words were uttered in his direction.
No way was I risking that so I decided to climb the lower fence into a ploughed field. A double barbed wire fence, for walkers not the crops!! A few tags to the trousers and more swearing. Walked across his field hoping his bloody crop fails.
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| Ideal breeding ground!! |
Back into yet another tree section, Tom an Uird Wood. I was getting a bit fed up of trees but when I exited these trees it was to find the usual end of the world landscape scene of deforestation. At least I could see Cromdale ahead and I also saw the Spey once again. There was a sign that I should have snapped warning the lumber drivers to take care as this was a Capercaillie breeding are, the irony!
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| Final hemmed in section still had to be wary |
Back onto the old railway line all the way to Cromdale, grassy, softer on the feet nice but hemmed in again. More open sections with cattle around so still keeping a look out.
Finally arrived at Cromdale which is an interesting location where a battle with Cromwell's forces effectively ended the Jacobite rebellion albeit the Scots claimed victory out of defeat, not for the last time. The battle is also famous for being the first reported instance of hand thrown explosive devices being used in combat.
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| Yes there is a River Spey plus Cromdale Kirk |
Crossed the Spey to find a sign indicating 2.5 miles to Grantown via the forest route or 4 miles via the riverside. Guess what I opted for? After about 10 minutes walking I came across another sign Grantown 2.5 miles, not happy.
So the final forest walk of the section. I have to say that the 2.5 mile ramble through the Anagach wood was just a few trees too many. I was overheated as I had dressed for the forecast of heavy spring showers with possible hail and none appeared. Now it was just a warming sun.
Although I had seen a lot of wildlife I had hoped to see the crested Tit on this section but not to be.
My legs were feeling it so I was relieved when I reached Grantown.
Overall it was a good ramble with the exception of the near cattle encounters. It was my last section of the Speyside Way which were spread over a few years so there was the added satisfaction of completing another of Scotland’s long distance routes.
Ascent: 566m
Distance: 24..17km
Time: 5.59
Wildlife: Brown Hare; Blue Tit; Coal Tit; Blackcap; Chaffinch; Robin; Blackbird; Woodpecker; Wren; Pheasant; Buzzard; Goldeneye; Mallard; Peewit; Wood Pigeon; Meadow Pipit; Jay; Willow Warbler; Dipper; Treecreeper,
