Cruach nan Capull (heap of the horses)
Type: Fiona
Height: 611m
One bizarre aspect of using Western is that is about half price if you buy a ticket at one of their agents rather than on the ferry. Booking online they post you tickets, no phone app, very outdated.
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| Snap from ferry approaching Dunoon |
A short stop at the Coop in Wemyss Bay to get my tickets and pork pie, healthy walking food and before long I drove straight onto the ferry and was sailing. The weather was a brilliant blue sky but bitterly cold, -4deg when I started the car. A short romp to the front of the ferry then quickly back to the warmth of the car, was I really going up a hill?
A short 20 minute calm crossing after which I set off to Glen Lean.
My target was Cruach nan Capull which has the distinction of being the most southerly Fiona in the Highlands. It doesn't really feel like the Highlands when I have just popped over from North Ayrshire/Inverclyde but that's maps for you.
When I turned off the main road I was met by a big yellow sign, no entry, road closed ahead, at some bridge I knew not where. My app said 3.8 miles to start of walk so I risked it as I didn't have a plan B for today. My thinking was to get as close as possible and walk the rest. Thankfully when I parked up at the walk start near Corrachaive an bubbly young lady with a very unattractive dog told me that the road closure was a couple of miles further on.
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| Capull the lump behind |
I climbed the gate and walked up another no entry track, forestry workings this time, but as the gate was locked and I could not hear any machinery so again took the risk.
This hill can be climbed from two sides and in retrospect the other option which is more common, might be longer but more straightforward.
A ramble of 3 sections. The 1st was the hard packed forestry track silent apart from the number of ravens flying low and high. A report on Walkhighlands by JJ mentions a huge number, clearly a breeding hot spot. The track continues but go no further after the obvious quarry.
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| Ascend behind not in front of the quarry |
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| The easiest obstacle comes 1st just to get you complacement |
Reached the quarry where stage 2 is encountered. The SMC book describes this as a wee jolly up a grassy track. Well not quite, you only find the track after scrambling up the steep side of the quarry and behind it is the track.
Indeed this does take you up to roughly the 350m mark. What it doesn't tell you is that whatever storm has brought down a large number of trees all of which seem to have fallen across the track. Some you can climb over, some you have to go into the trees for a short detour and some much longer detours where you pray you will find the track again. Plus it was surprisingly dark on this blue sky day god knows what it would be like on a gloomy day.
What it also doesn't mention is that is at times it is not a path but a gloopy mud fest and I mean deep gloop which cannot be avoided. The track also takes some sharp bends, not always obvious as it is a mud fest until you realise you are definitely not on a track any more. So double back to find the bit you missed or just be frustrated and go home.
Near the treeline you just have to make a call where to leave the track and meander up and hope you get out. Phew, I did, but finding this on the way back was already bringing out negative thoughts, a worry!! My departure was earlier than the SMC book suggests but I had no confidence that the track was going much further and I could see light through the trees.
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| Pleased to exit the plantation wish I had remembered that tree as a marker when descending |
Relieved to be out on the moor for Stage 3. It was rough, reed boggy but there was enough harder ground to let me head for Mid Hill, detouring round on my right where I found the old fence line that leads to the summit, eventually.
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| Contouring to the old fenceline |
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| It goes up pointy bit on left as did I before heading for the gully |
The broken fence goes directly up a steep face. I initially followed it then backed off as I was face in on icy stuff, on my own and not clever if I had a fall. I backed down and edged across where I went up the gully on my right. A stone erosion landslide chute made it much easier.
Reached the top of this and of course there is now the steepest section ahead, I was huffing and puffing away as I followed the fence higher and higher. This was the hardest bit physically and it was not until looking down when on the descent that I realised just how steep it was. Legs were pleased to reach the flattish ground where a 5 minute stroll to the single iron pole marked the summit. The glare from the low sun was blinding, glad I only had it for a short section.
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| View north up the Clyde |
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| Ben Lomond and the Arrochar hills |
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| South over Cumbrae and the Ayrshire hills beyond |
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| West to the Paps of Jura |
The views were outstanding but it was bitterly cold particularly as an unexpected strong breeze appeared. Feel like temperature was easily in minus figures.
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| Descent |
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| Sgorach Mor the stumpy top across the glen |
So back down the same way. I did find where I exited the trees but the section back to the track was not easy, minor memory jolts, this way or that, but with relief at one point I realised the mud I was on was the track I wanted.
The descent was less of an ordeal but I was still a happy chappie to reach the quarry.
The ramble felt a lot longer than the actual walking time but it was harder work than I expected. Fionas/Grahams do not give up their tick easily and I know that I will not be repeating that route ever again. And regarding the name of the hill, no I never saw any horses.
Now that I have sampled the short crossing I intend to have another trip or two across the water for my winter programme.
Ascent: 552m
Distance: 8.9km
Time: 3.12
Wildlife: Raven many different birds: Wren
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