Sunday 23 June 2019

A fantastic high level Glencoe ramble

Hill: Bidean nam Bian (Peak of the mountains) circuit including Stob Coire Sgreamhach (Peak of the horrible Corrie)
Category: Munro
Height: n/a
Route up between The Sisters heading for Stob Coire nan Lochan (middle)
It was with great anticipation that I started today’s walk into this impressive and somewhat daunting landscape. How many times have I parked in the Glencoe car park and looked at this scene and said ‘must do it‘?  Storar says that the big Buachaille is the scenic icon but Bidean is the supreme hillwalkers mountain.
Well today was the day. No Japanese tour buses taking photos of me departing!!
Follow the burn
Our small group left in sunshine and followed the excellent trail up into Coire nan Lochan, following the burn, heading for the great buttresses ahead. The feeling of immersion as the great cliffs narrow in. The burns crystal clear waters utilised to replenish the water supplies further up. Not always recommended doing this but done me no harm so far. Plenty of small waterfalls to admire.
Aonach Eagach ridge
Looking back fantastic views of the Aonach Eagach ridge, lower down I made out a solitary figure heading along, one day maybe.
First obstacle about half way up was a smooth rock descent, easy enough but the first of many hands on scrambles today, some more challenging than others.
Falls
As we reached the lochan under the buttresses a waterfall was in full flow, as was the weather. The sun lotions were forgotten as the rain arrived. Wet gear donned including gloves for me as it had turned decidedly nippy.
The good NTS track has now disappeared. We took a right (west) and after heading up some grassy slopes found the marker cairn.
Example of the rocky scramble
Now we were well into the cloud (we entered it circa 900m) we had a prolonged period of pathless rocky scrambling.
We came over from the left
At one point we were only about 10 yards left of where we should be and a huge drop appeared. Wow that was close. A short detour and we could view the drop, albeit in cloud, a timely reminder. On the other side a brief and welcome glimpse of Glencoe below.
We continued the circular rock scramble to arrive right at Stob Coire nan Lochan (Storar says it is the finest of Bideans peaks, need to take his word for that). After all that effort it should qualify as a Munro. From the reading I had done beforehand the extent of the prolonged rocky scrambling was a surprise to me.
Still not too far to the first one proper. The cloud protected us from the views of the ascent ahead, despite scrambling a looming mass could be seen up there through the greyness. Glad we circled around and up the last bit to reach the summit of Bidean nam Bian.
Cloud starting to lift
This is the highest point in Argyll and just as we reached the cairn, the clouds were occasionally parting to give us fleeting glimpses of the superb views. As we lunched it started to lift properly and we could enjoy the views we had worked hard to get. The ridge ahead now clear so we can see the route towards Stob Coire Sgreamhach .
Looking down to The Lost Valley
It was a leisurely stroll along the ridge taking in the views of the big drops down into Coire Gabhail and The Lost Valley beyond. Also out towards Etive, plenty of big hills.
Back to Bidean
Looking back we have a clear view to Bidean, quite superb. Quite a few walkers around, few came our route.
Stob Coire Sgreamhach ahead
Although the climb up to our second Munro looked quite steep from here we accomplished it in good time. 
Light and darkness Loch Etive
More views to enjoy but the clouds are lowering again, a clear high front over Etive and low pressure just above.
Now the dreaded descent off the bealach. The chute is fully eroded at the top section so no option other than to take the steps to the right before rejoining the chute. It was one to go very, very slowly, full concentration on each step. Lots of loose rocks and still very steep. Thankfully better stepping stones are reached and a path evolves.
Scree slopes descent to The Lost Valley
Whilst taking time to regroup the midges decide to assault us, no Donald Trump Iran reprieves here, and they were biting. The smell of insect repellent now strong in the air.
When we arrived at the flat area known as the 'Lost Valley' the tourist walkers from the car park were out in numbers. The valley was used to hide rustled cattle by the Macdonald's of Glencoe but god only knows how they got them up here in the first place. The section up from the River Coe and up the burn is a steep and rocky section in its own right.
A short stream crossing takes us into more bouldery terrain, easy to lose the path here. More short scrambling, found it again, and down the path to the final wet rocky section where a wire hand hold has been erected, helpful it was too.
Glad to be back at the car park, it had been a long walk out.
Stunning day with good company which helped the walk go by. One of the bucket list.

Wildlife: Raven, Meadow pipit.
Time: 7.55
Ascent: ft (m) 1422m
Distance: m (km) 13.8km

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