Sunday 22 September 2019

A Cromdale history lesson on Creagan a' Chaise

Hill: Creagan a' Chaise (Small crag of the cheese?)
Category: Graham
Height: 722m
I was looking for something different for my last walk from Aviemore and when I came across this it met my days objectives and more:

  • Somewhere new
  • Excellent views
  • History included
  • Potential new wildlife
  • A visitors book!!

I parked at the Cromdale sports ground, public WC at the playing fields if required.
Road to the Castle
Walked up the road beside the (abandoned) Haughs hotel and headed straight up to the sign for Lethendry Castle. One of the cairns can be seen clearly as the clouds are lifting from the tops to create a splendid viewing day. 
Castle ruins
As you can see there little left of the Castle but for historic importance to have stood in this place and use your imagination at what happened at the castle and on the nearby moors. Apparently one of the first recorded use of grenades in warfare.
In 1690 the Jacobite guards at the castle were bypassed by the Government army who charged the Jacobite infantry which numbered somewhere between 800-1200 or so. The government forces including cavalry charged, killing over 400 and taking over 100 prisoner. The survivors fled up the hill, more of this later.
This is a grouse shooting estate as well as livestock so a good path takes you up and around the trees. I thought I had to pass a large bull but thankfully there was a small fence between us.
Looking down on the battlefield
The track bends round and then takes a right turn onto the moor proper just before the Piper’s Stone.
There is a slightly muddy path that is well used to service the nearby gun butts that line the hill. 
Coronation cairn
Just keep heading up the heather clad flanks until the cairn comes into sight. You see it a long way off as this is a biggie. It is the Coronation cairn built on the site of a huge bonfire in 1902 to mark the coronation of Edward & Alexandria. 
Looking across the moor to the summit
From this cairn the second cairn and true top can be seen just over a mile away.  Also I spot a golden eagle slowly rising on a thermal, got a snap to confirm, but clear from the large wings held forward.
Heading across the boggy moor top I was glad I had kept my gaiters on. Not the worst but lots of water and gloopy bits. The views ahead of the Cairngorms are stunning in this clear light and I am sure that is the white hotel in Aviemore far away.
I am also keeping my eyes open for sight of the reindeer herd that live on these hills. I saw tracks in the soft mud and clear trails across the grassy slopes but disappointingly no sighting today.
Jubilee Cairn
The second cairn and trig is reached, the summit of Creagan a’Chaise. This cairn is for Victoria’s Jubilee. 
Surprise Malt
On the south side I find the opening with the visitors book but surprised to also find a bottle of Glenlivet and a note telling you to have a swig after signing the book. A bit early in the day but I cannot refuse.
A honking makes me look up and huge skein of geese are flying high heading south, early arrivals.
High level walk to 2nd graham, Ben Rinnes on right
After soaking in the fantastic views it is a return back to the Coronation cairn. There is an option to continue this as a high level ridge walk to take in a second Graham but it looks too much for today to get back to my car within my time limits. Two ravens appear to do a bonding flight, thought that was a spring thing but it was impressive stuff.
Pipers Stone
On the way down I stop at the two trees standing in isolation with a large stone. This is the Pipers Stone where a wounded piper (Hugh or Hamish) fled the massacre and played on top of this boulder as a rallying call to the fleeing Jacobites, until he died from his wounds. A poignant and beautiful spot to reflect on our history.
I decided to circular back to the car and almost a mistake. As I cleared the trees I spotted the coos with their youngsters across the track at a feeding station. It was a long way back so I walked on, the youngsters scattered but a few females made a slight charge then stopped. Heart in mouth I kept going and boy was I glad to scale the fence. That night I read about a woman trampled to death by a herd of coos!!
A very warm walk, our Indian autumn, and as I passed a woodland a huge flock of chaffinch were coming through the trees, winter migrants along with the geese? 
Speckled Wood
Plus my first sighting of a speckled wood butterfly, actually a few around.
A red squirrel comes close and makes me smile as it leaps from tree to tree, having a look down to see if I was still watching, yip.
Back to the car and a huge roar above me and two fighters were doing similar acrobatics to the ravens. Slow speed twists and turns for a few minutes before formation flying north, back to Lossiemouth base I presume. 
What a sight and what an ending to an excellent and very different walk, just a pity those reindeer never showed.
Plaque at Kirk
Finished with a visit to Cromdale Kirk which was a lookout post. When the troops crossed the river the church bells rang an alarm but it was not heard, a plaque is situated here.

Wildlife: Buzzard; Golden Eagle; Red Squirrel; Raven; Wren; Meadow Pipit; Skylark; Chaffinch; Speckled Wood butterfly.
Time: 4.16
Ascent: 625m
Distance: 17.1km

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