Thursday 13 June 2024

Not as big a hill as expected.....Beinn Mhor (Cowal)

 Hill: Beinn Mhor (Cowal) (Big mountain)

Type: Fiona

Height: 741m



This was my 5th attempt to get this hill bagged. 3 postponements due to the horrendous weather and one to illness a few days ago. I felt better today and when I woke so was the weather. My gear was already packed from midweek so throw in some food and off I went.

A pleasant drive but the mixed clouds suggested it might not be as dry as I hoped. Sat on the Western Ferry for only 5 minutes then off we sailed.

Some people link this with nearby Beinn Bheag but logistically it is awkward so not for me today, a solo traverse of Beinn Mhor will be more than enough for my fitness. As its name suggests it is the highest of the Cowal Fionas by some way and also starting from sea level so a big lump indeed. It sits at 28th highest out of the 219 Fiona's.

Drove along the pot holed single track through Glen Massan, from the amount of cars parked in laybys I assume the River Massan is worth fishing as these were not walkers/dog walkers areas. Onto the parking area beside the stone bridge which is currently out of commission. Don’t know where the road goes but one car arrived just after me, had a look and headed back.



From here it is a walk of a mile and a half before the climbing starts. It was no hardship as it was a new glen for me and the sound of the birds was amazing. Easily ¾ of them were Willow Warblers, there must have been dozens of them, I have heard so many this year I wonder if it is a bigger than normal influx. Strangely, all my recent walks have also included Chiffchaffs along with the warblers but not one was heard today.

A few Highland cattle to stop and admire but really this is not the nicest of landscapes due to the deforestation which cannot be ignored. Mainly the amount of tree debris left behind is much higher volume than I can recall and is a blot on the landscape.

Finally I reach the turn off to start climbing. I had read a few reports of walkers missing this, god only knows how.



The plantation section is mainly good walking with a few sign posts! Not sure why as you cannot get lost the track is obvious. Still loads of birdsong and I was delighted to spot a Grey Wagtail on the track where it then flew to the top of a pine tree. Surprised as these are almost always beside rivers but not today. The cold that had derailed me a few days ago was actually still active as my chesty breathing was telling me. Fortunately I got over it after a mile or so.


As the track got higher it got boggier and at times and a few trees have been blown over blocking the track but easily negotiated. The final 50 metres before breaking the tree line is steep and slippy, actually descending it was the harder.

Out of the trees onto the moor where I had a good view of the summit on my right and could even see the trig. I followed the track for a bit but it was going away from where I wanted to head, the marker posts had also disappeared. So there followed a bit of cross country rougher ground to get to the ridge. Actually I enjoyed that little change of terrain. On the ridge there are better views and a faint ATV track is the route.

The wind was stronger and much cooler, I suspect the feel like temperature was not much higher than zero, my body was fine but my hands were telling me otherwise. Too lazy to stop and dig out my gloves, suffering is good for you old man.



This was a very good gradient and a fine ridge walk. Nearer the summit a big bird flew low over the top coming my way before veering off back along the slope. I only really saw its horizontal profile but it was big and much higher than I would expect a Buzzard to be, a Golden Eagle, I suspect it was.

View SW Arran on left

Arrochar hills

Tyndrum hills

Reached the top and with this clear air the views were spectacular. Walkhighlands says you can see the following: Ben Lui, Ben Cruachan, Arrochar Alps & Ben Lomond. From my visuals you can also throw in Arran, Paps of Jura and Mull. One advantage of unseasonal crisp clear area, no horizon haze whatsoever. If the wind hadn't been so strong and cold more time could have been spent picking out highlights. Surprisingly with Loch Eck being so close I cannot remember actually seeing it.

A brief lunch out of the wind spent looking across to Beinn Bheag. From here the descent across the peat hagged moor looked okay but the issue is getting back. A 370m reascent of Beinn Mhor from here according to the SMC book making it over 1000m of ascent, more than I wanted today, looking at it will do me fine.

Loch Striven on the descent

So back the same way with good views down Loch Striven. The descent being trickier but I made it.

Marked tree exit but track goes straight there

View back down to the farm

Although this is the highest hill it is probably the easiest walking of the 3 Cowal Fiona's that I have ascended.

My only disappointment was that I had hoped to hear a Cuckoo, still none this year. I do not keep absolute records but their arrival seems later than normal.

Ascent: 763m

Distance: 14.3km

Time: 4.04

Wildlife: Willow Warbler; Chaffinch; Coal Tit; Grey Wagtail; Sparrowhawk; Golden Eagle?; Meadow Pipit; Skylark; Jay;


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