Arran Coastal Way Sannox - Lochranza the high road

After Wednesdays leg from Brodick to Sannox I made a quick return to Arran to continue the ACW walk from Sannox to Lochranza. I had two choices today, weather permitting I was going to go up from Laggan cottage, do the sub 2000 Fionn Bhealach and drop down to Lochranza from there. Failing that I will just do the full coastal stretch. Matching the bus timetable is a further consideration.

Sannox stepping stones

I would have preferred the 8.20 sailing but for some reason it only sails Mon-Thurs so on the later 9.40 which brings some time pressure.  A nice smooth crossing once more and again an expensive Calmac breakfast roll and coffee and caught the bus to Sannox. Forecast mixed cloud, sun with showers.
Picking up where I left off in South Sannox I crossed into the woods just opposite the Glen Sannox walk. Wrong entrance, a burn in the way. Next turn was correct with large  stepping stones, that’s better. On Wednesday I was bitten without seeing the beasties today it was both immediately, amazing at this time of year. I followed the trail round the bay and through some woods then reached another burn. There were stepping stones but looked slippy and I did not want wet feet this early so I followed the track back towards the road and then crossed a wooden bridge to head back down the other side.
I could hear a lot of barking and wondered what I was heading to. At the parking area a small travellers encampment had been set up. I counted 8 dogs, a mixture of whippets and pit bull types all going crazy but thankfully they were all chained up, they looked an evil lot. Not a person to be seen.

Sannox woods

Through a large fence and onto a hard packed road which is followed for a few miles. Good sea views to distract from the other side. The navy navigation beacon is an obvious marker and the trail becomes a normal track with the fallen rocks the next marker.

The vista has opened out with big hills on the left and grand views over the Cumbraes and Argyll. It now feels properly remote, the only noise accompaniment is the calling of the birdlife. Thankfully enough of them to keep interested. Wheatear, rock pipit, common gulls, eider and mallards. Then, I hear my first cuckoo of the year and from now on until reaching Lochranza it was constant calling. Amazing, not one heard on Wednesday but it now sounds like the entire UK population is here.

View north near fallen rocks

There are frequent light showers on and off but the tops are just clear. As I negotiate around the fallen rocks I spot movement ahead, 2 walkers going in the same direction. The only people I have seen on the walk so far.

2nd beacon and way uphill?

I almost miss the other mile navigation beacon as it is inland whereas the 1st beacon was right on the coast. Looking at the background it looks like possibly an easier way up to the top, looks more straight forward on that grassy slope from here than my map suggests.

Heading towards the Millstone point just soak in the remoteness, the isolation and the scenery. I am now in line with the summit of Fionn Bhealach but of course from this level it cannot be seen. The Coire is impressive. However on a lower peak just ahead red deer hinds silhouettes on the skyline, the first of many that I will see today.

Laggan cottage

I catch up with the walkers who are having their lunch and sheltering at the cave, a pity as I wanted to look in this but did not want to disturb them. A quick chat, they were sticking to coastal route, then I was heading towards Laggan cottage, the white building standing out in the distance. Track is boggy in patches but generally good.
A pair of Northern divers are close by and a very large seals head appears, what a brute, only yards out, with what looks like a squid in its mouth.

Looking back towards Laggan cottage

At the abandoned Laggan cottage decision time and its uphill. There is meant to be an obvious path but for a few minutes I just climb and then I spot a faint trail which seems to follow my maps trail so up I go. Relatively straight but as no obvious route keep checking the map. I reach a point about half way up where looking down on the abandoned Cock farm I can see a herd of deer grazing amid the ruins. Apparently over 100 people lived around here at one time, it would have been a harsh life.
I also see 4 walkers heading south on the coast, there is life. The path is now clearly defined, rocky but good walking. The views across the water impress so take the time to enjoy them.

Creag Ghlas Laggan

On the top the obvious track ( I think this known as the Postman’s track) continues towards Lochranza but the route to Fionn Bhealach is evidently a case of following the ridge, Creag Ghlas Laggan. The weather has changed quickly, clouds drop down, smirry rain and visibility reduced as well, it is bleak up here.  2 stags are close by staring, do the see me as a threat? Wherever you look there are pockets of red deer. I decide to leave Fionn for another day. The clouds have blown away but it is a chill wind.

The views over the northern Arran peaks are what this is all about. I might not be high but this is spectacular.

Walking down the track the distillery comes into view and looks so picturesque nestled below the hills. Groups of red deer are still all around. Obviously no cuckoos up top but as I get down to the village one calls in the trees beside the farm, cheerio, cheerio, it sings.

Distillery

Final descent gives a good view of the bay and castle.

The deer are so prominent that walking on the road that split’s the golf course this young stag was totally unconcerned about my presence, not just bunkers the hazard here.

30 minutes until the bus to into the distillery café for my hard earned coffee and cake. Plus I had to buy a bottle of port cask finished malt, the tourist pound gets spent. Remember, they say one tourist pound goes around 13 times. I will enjoy a tipple tonight.
Distance was 9.72 miles taking 3 hours 40min. Ascent just over 500 metres. I will have to complete the coast section later but I do recommend this.