Monday 7 October 2019

A wild day on An Stuc

Hill: An Stuc (The Peak)
Category: Munro
Height: 1118m

What a difference a day makes, yesterday was positively balmy on the river, plenty of midgies and of course no fish. Today the forecast was for heavy rain up top, which we encountered, but the main issue was the unexpected gale force winds, more of that later.
I had already intended to do this 3 Munro circuit as a solo outing but noticed one of the groups was also doing it so decided to go with them for the company, a mistake.
We were already late in starting as a pair who had confirmed they were coming did not show up and did not bother to tell anyone, needless hanging about.
Nice and calm at the start once off the road
We started from the Ben Lawers hotel, £5 quid parking charge but there are few other options, before walking the main road to the antler carving shop where the walk starts proper.
Head up the track to the farmyard then follow the track through the trees.
This was a muddy track which was a sign of things to come.
Out on the moor Sron Mhor ahead
Before long the trees are behind and the vista opens up. It became apparent one of our party was struggling so we changed plans from the normal anti clockwise route. The advantage of the clockwise route is that the ascent is long but very gradual taking you up to 700 metres to Lochan an Cat. 
We crossed burn but normal route is up Sron Mhor behind
We followed the Lawers burn initially on the north side until we reached the crossing where the footbridge should have been, nope gone. The rocks were very slippy but we got across without mishap. This would certainly be more interesting at a higher water level.
Path follows the burn
Well, now on the other side there is still a faint path but most of it is sphagnum moss, peat bogs and all sorts of traps to get you wet and cursing. 
One of the Hydro dams dotted about
Interesting the old hydro works dotted about, presumably replace by the main dam.
Lochan nan Cat almost into the clouds
Finally the Lochan is reached but progress has been slower than expected. This would be a beautiful spot in good weather with the slopes of the high mountains surrounding you. Today we are almost in the cloud level so no sightings of the tops.
Our ascent up the right side of the burn
We decided to take the direct route up the side of the burn to get to the Bealach Dubh. There is a narrow path on the right side of the burn  which is really just a steep section of eroded mud steps, hand holds on the grass a must and great care needed to not slip. This is not a spot to rush. We commented that we would not want to descend this not knowing we would be doing just that shortly.
Fully into the clouds and the temperature had dropped significantly but worse was the winds which increased from nothing to almost gale fore gusts within 100 metres of ascent. Even with my weight I was struggling to not get blown over. The wind was catching the rucksack and trying to turn me, not comfortable.
The elements were now too much for the slower person who was also feeling ill. She agreed to shelter with a companion whilst we bagged An Stuc. This Munro is the runt in this group but also the most exciting with dramatic slopes particularly on the other side heading to the next Munro. It was only confirmed a Munro back in 1997.
The rain was stinging our faces as we struggled up the track to the summit. This was the most extreme conditions that I have been in this year. 
At the summit we had a choice to split up or all go back and descend. It was frustrating as Munro number two, Meall Garbh, was so close but the descent off An Stuc was potentially dangerous particularly in this weather. We had completed over half of the distance but the head had to rule the heart and safety had to take priority.
So back down the hill, collected the other two and staggered to the very steep muddy descent. Our struggler found this very difficult with a few slides that almost took out her helpers.
Finally down at the Lochan, all safe, the world was calm again, no wind at all, not even a breeze, unbelievable. The storm was fully raging but contained within the clouds.
Follow the burn back
No wind but the predicted rain arrived to accompany us on the long trek back, light at first but persistent then chucking it down.
Some walkers were spotted on the top of Sron Mhor descending, I reckon they were ones I spoke to in the car park and had turned back opting out of An Stuc.
A disappointing outcome for the day but that is the Scottish weather for you. In that storm you certainly knew the feeling of living rather than existing. A day where the better judgement is to survive and get the other two another day. 
Next time a clear weather good viewing day for sure!!

Wildlife: Raven
Time: 6.18
Ascent: 3281ft 
Distance: 18.2km

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