Finally Scotland's most iconic long distance pass.....Lairig Ghru

Walk: Lairig Ghru (Forbidden or gloomy pass)

This has been on my must do list for as long as I have been interested in hillwalking but the logistics never seemed to come together. It is probably the most best known mountain pass in Scotland and probably Britain. This is a vast area with the walk splitting huge mountains, the slopes of 3 of the 4 highest in Scotland included. Ralph Storer says ‘Its scale has to be seen to be appreciated. For grandeur and variety of scenery it is without equal’. Fully endorsed.

This year I decided it was now or never and that I would do it solo, starting in Braemar and staying in Aviemore afterwards or getting the good lady to drive me back. But when doing my research I came across a firm called Hillgoers who started the direction I wanted to go from at the Braemar side but more importantly had a mini bus to run you back to Braemar. Sorted, some company and a lift, well worth the money. The walk has no escape routes if the weather turns bad or an accident happens, all adds to the pre-walk tension. Walking from this direction means a gentler but longer ascent to the high pointat the Pools of Dee.

I had cadged a lift to the start at Linn of Dee. Bumped into Ben Dolphin and reminisced about a walk we did together when he was Ramblers president.

The weather was to be warmer than I would have liked, well laden with liquid but as I found out there were some streams to fill up en route. A motley crew we were, introductions made and off we went.

I had walked the start section before with ADRC when we did the Munro of Carn a’Mhaim. Initially it seemed different I think because we visited the river to see the falls, before memory returned when we rejoined the main track to the abandoned Derry Lodge. Glen Luibeg & Glen Lui alongside Scots Pine, moor and bubbling streams. Really weird I said aloud that I would have expected to hear a cuckoo today and in less than 10 seconds one started calling. We all burst out laughing, as it turned out the only one heard today.

All went well until we reached the river crossing which was running quite high. The group split a couple crossing whilst the rest of us walked up to the bridge crossing adding an extra kilometer or more walking in the already hot day.

I was first across the bridge to be greeted by a very attractive young lady skinny dipping. When she realised a party was coming through it was a quick exit to put on knickers and a top, her partner just smiled and shrugged his shoulders.

Bypassing the Munro we were now on the Lairig proper. We wound our way round the mountain track until Corrour Bothy came into view. Located below the Devils Penis (Point) it has an impressive backdrop but your eye is also aware of the long trail heading along Glen Dee towards the giant slopes of Cairn Toul on the left and Ben Macdui on the right, as rugged terrain as you will get any where in Scotland. The eye is led by that trail winding ahead but there is also the knowledge of what is round the corner, still only about a third into the walk.

I had no illusions regarding the roughness of the terrain on the so called path but even so it surprised me. It was full on concentration to avoid tripping and sadly at times the views were ignored as the path was the focus and indeed that remained so for most of the walk. When we stopped and looked around it was ruggedly breathtaking. There are constant rock landslips to remind you that this is an active landscape. Indeed at one point we heard a noise and looked up and a large boulder was rolling down a patch of snow leaving a firm trail, it was a heavy one.

Porridge corrie

An Garbe Choire

The area of the one of the great corries, An Garbe Choire (The rough corrie) and spectacularly rough it is, still quite a bit of snow around. ‘Porridge’ corrie is equally impressive. Some cattle fell from the top through a cornice and smashed up quite a bit hence the name.

The watershed at this spot is where the falls come down off Braeriach and Macdui and is as impressive as the corrie. Although the Dee’s source starts on the Braeriach plateau many regard this as the start as it is also joined by the water from the Pools of Dee. A good spot to pour water over my head and refill. It was very humid but at times a strong chilling breeze blew into our backs, nice relief and better than blowing in your face.

Boulder field beckons

Then the boulder field(s) came into view. We chatted with the occasional walker(s) that we met before this and they all called the boulder field long and arduous. Our guide

George said it was 5 minutes. The reality was much nearer George's view as indeed there is a track which makes it easier, not easy, but with hindsight is probably easy to lose if coming from the north thus enduring a much longer and harder boulder field crossing. There are possibly 3 different sections of boulders but our first is the most awkward if that track is missed.

There are 3 or 4 Pools of Dee, some vibrant green, a contrast to the stony slopes and a beautiful spot to take another short break.

Lurchers gully now showing impressively to the right in distance. I had in my mind this was much closer to the finish, walk ending soon, no chance.

Lurchers Gully

Still 3 hours to go but now downhill all the way

Then we reached the highest point of the Lairig with views of Aviemore beyond. The views forward and back, superb. Checked the GPS and we have covered exactly 20km. It might be all downhill from here but it is still at least another 10km, more as it turned out. Another 3 hours of walking.

It was a weird day as I tripped twice on the descent from here, nothing hurt other than pride. Tiredness, lack of concentration I don't know but it happened.

As it turned out it was 3 hours from that cairn and although the Caledonian pine Forrest is unique and grand viewing, particularly on the higher descent, the truth is that we just wanted the walk over. The chatter had reduced, a good pace was being kept. The Cairngorm Club footbridge was a welcome sight, finally getting there.

Another part of the weird day was I cannot remember that last time I had a blister. But twice I had to remove stones and grit from my right boot and with about 1km to go I knew I had a bad blister forming, it was very sore. So stopped and Compeed applied to try to minimise the damage but it did not really improve, it was a slow painful hobble back to Coylumbridge.

Another part of the weird day was I cannot remember that last time I had a blister. But twice I had to remove stones and grit from my right boot and with about 1km to go I knew I had a bad blister forming, it was very sore. So stopped and Compeed applied to try to minimise the damage but it did not really improve, it was a slow painful hobble back to Coylumbridge.

No doubt that this was an incredible day out with outstanding views and exceeded my expectations. But it was also a very demanding long walk, very hard on the feet, testing my physical and mental capacity.

Ambition achieved, glad I did it but a repeat, I don't think so, at least not in the short term.

Ascent: 811m

Distance: 32.9km

Time: 10.21

Wildlife: Meadow pipit; Willow warbler; Common Sandpiper; Ring Ouzel (heard); Cuckoo (heard)