Hill: Meall Coire an Lochain
Type: Sub2k
Height: 517m
I was exploring Walkhighlands for a short half day walk and came up with two options. One involved a very steep ascent and from a visual drive past lots of bracken and with the amount of recent rain a potentially dangerous water crossing. The other was a pathless boggy moorland walk to the middle of nowhere which no doubt would be very boggy. Of course I could just stay in bed!
What swung my decision was this walk had only 34 people having bagged it on Walkhighlands, so I had to find out if it was really that bad.
This is the highest of the Cromalt Hills, I bet you had never heard of them either.
I started at the same car park that I used for Cul Beag but heading in the opposite direction. First issue was that the connection between my PC and GPS last night must have not been secure as the walk did not show on the GPS. The visibility was fine and I did have map & compass so walk was on.
The hill starts with a so called ATV track that disappears almost immediately and immediately it was wet and gloopy.
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| That is the ridge in the distance, I was going from right to left |
The track rises to the right of the communication mast and once crested there is a view of the moor ahead. A very faint ATV track goes down into the longer grassy wetland before disappearing a lot quicker than I expected. There was a small rise ahead and a group of 8 red deer hinds initially spooked but let me get very close before running off.
Over the top and more of the same. I spotted a stag on a ridge body twisted as it looked at me but I was too far away to be an issue for him. It was an interesting ramble as I must have came across over 30 deer in small groups.
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| Not even a faint track from now on |
I had a visual on the subsidiary top of Meall nan Dearcag Mor which I would ascend before walking the ridge to Meall Coire an Lochan thus giving me a circular ramble. From this location it also seemed the most direct route.
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| A good shot of the terrain. I was going to head up the grassy section on the right |
The whole walk was indeed pathless. It was mostly wet and boggy with much time spent trying to avoid the very large peat hags, the many mapped and unmapped lochans, much toing and froing. The further I went the more I realised I was in a real wilderness, definitely not recommended in poor visibility. I know it is not to everyone's taste but at times like this I really enjoy the solitude, the feeling that you are just a mere pin prick in this vast landscape. There is also the slight edge that if something went wrong help is not going to be other walkers coming along. Still that edge is my adrenalin rush so it is to be embraced not feared.
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| Ben Mor Coigath on right and I think An Teallach in distance |
When I closed in on my final ascent I came across a very dilapidated old iron fence line, not marked on my map. It could be followed if going directly to the main top but not for me today as I was going straight up the wet grassy face. About 70m of fairly straightforward ascent although the grass/heather was very wet and slippy along with the gradient at times between 40-60% so hands used as well.
On the top I got the first opportunity to have a good look around and take in the magnificent views and rugged landscape.
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| True summit is the high point in the middle |
A 15 minute walk along the fairly level grassy ridge would take me to the real summit although from an eye perspective there is not a lot between the tops although the 517m definitely higher. Along the ridge where a pair of Golden Plovers were trying their hardest to distract me from wherever their nest was.
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| Great views of Cul Beag, Cul Mor & Suilven |
Five minutes further on I reached the small cairn with an interesting pipe/pole marked the summit.
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| Looking to the boulder slopes of Ben More Assynt, Ben Klibreck pointed one on the right |
Looking around I now knew that despite the rough walking the views were one of the best that I have had in this area. Up until now I thought Breabag was the overall best vista but this hill stands so alone that much ore can be seen. Not as high of course but what a 360deg view. Just look at its location on the map and you will see what I mean, quite superb.
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| Descent was via the strip between the two lochans |
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| Looking over Loch Odhar |
From up here the peat bogs were numerous as were the large and small lochs/lochans. I made a steep descent heading for Loch a Phris to then traverse between it and Loch Odhar. Probably slightly easier walking than the in route. But on the in route when I looked back I could usually see the mast as my reference point. But on the return it was hidden until the last section.
Overall it far exceeded my expectations. Yes the ground was rough but with no visibility issues it is straightforward enough. But those views wow, more walkers need to appreciate it. It deserves its place along with all the other Assynt hills.
Ascent: 413m
Distance: 8km
Time: 3.19
Wildlife: Red Deer; Meadow Pipit; Golden Plover; Common Frog;
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