Arran's wild west.....Sail Chalmadale

 Hill: Sail Chalmadale

Type: Sub2k

Height: 480m

Sail Chalmadale is small Arran hill that I had been meaning to get around to and an opportunity arose when I spotted it on the Arran Mountain Festival programme. This was way back in January and I had totally forgotten about it until it popped up as a calendar reminder the day before I was due to go on it. Wow, quick decision time.

Forecast looked good and the ferry was operational so yes a day trip was on.

On the quiet 7am ferry in good time for my brekkie roll and time to catch up on my sleep as we sailed.

As the group gathered my fears about the ability of a couple of the group to maintain the required pace were rising. More about that as this ramble evolves.

The walk is a rough but fine route on the west of Arran starting at Catacol and finishing at Dougrie, ascending Sail Chamadale en route.

Start of walk 'eagle crags' on left but none spotted

Beinn Tarsuinn (the smaller one) directly ahead

The walk begins by heading up Glen Catacol which I recognised as the final section of my 3 Glens walk. The water on the Abhainn Mor was very low but crystal clear, I would drink out of that if required. Sand Martins flew in and out of an eroded sandy riverbank and a lone sand piper called and flew away near by. Not long before the Cuckoos began calling, we reckoned 2 on our right and at least one on the left. And superbly a female on our left started calling and we then spotted a pair flying, great start. Although the walk started with many heavy grey clouds it improved and we had no rain.

The track at this point is narrow, alternatively boggy and stony.

Heading up the glen Ben Bhreac slopes on left

Example of track with enclosure ahead

Uniquie Arran Whitebeam tree

At a ford the left turn becomes Gleann Diomhan but we crossed the burn and continued south up Glen Catacol, starting to be hemmed in on our right by the flanks of Beinn Bhreac. There are a few fenced off plantations presumably protecting the rare to Arran Whitebeam tree. These are restricted to the northern part of the island and are numbered in their hundreds.

Waterslide

The track was now rising and the broad waterfall bringing down the Allt nan Calman was a spectacular rolling slab of stone. A cairn is reached at point 336m and here the terrain changes. The walk leaders had been concerned about the slow pace of the group, the most concern being me getting back for the last ferry. The slower ones were offered the opportunity to go back at this point with a guide but nope they wanted to continue. The guides knew I was capable so offered me the option of going solo, something I said I might take up later.

Enter the bog of Loch Tanna

From L-R Castail Abhail, Cir Mhor, A Chrois, Beinn Tarsuinn & Beinn Nuis

Cnoc Breac on left Sail Chalmadale top on right

We were now walking on the west side of Loch Tanna, a really remote spot but scenic on a day like this, not much chance of meeting anyone else out here. It was really wet, I suppose it never dries out. So much so we were heading higher to get better walking which for the most part was good.

However one of the tail enders slipped on the muddy slopes and was well covered in gloop. Not hurt and I was not alone in having a smirk but then it took another 15 minutes before they could get going again.

Now I was getting more concerned. The pick up was for 5pm but at our rate of progress the group were going to need to put that back, problem at this stage, no phone signal, oh dear. The views over the eastern hills were fantastic as the light kept changing with passing clouds.

Chalmadale from Cnoc

Down into peat hag terrain then up the boulder strewn nose of Cnoc Breac. By this time the stragglers were well behind and the guide was just as concerned as I was and luckily we got a signal. Decision made I was going solo to try and meet the pick up at 5 where they would wait 15 minutes or it had to be a pick up with the main group, no pressure then. It was now 3.30.

A short descent and reascent and I was on top of Sail Chalmadale. A quick look round then along the ridge knowing there were crags on the nose so decision time when I reached them about which flank to take. A rugged little mountain but as always with a stand alone hill superb views.

View from cairn on Sail

Loch Sail in snap along with track to Dougarie

Standing at the top I could see Loch Sail Chalmadale where I knew and atv track would be picked up. It looked a long way down.

I decided to turn right/west, down the steep grassy rakes, adjusting my route as required.

With relief I was down but the terrain between me and the loch might have been flattish but it was the worst of the walking. Tussocks abounded but they were islands in marshy terrain so the going was slower than I wanted. Further relief when I found the atv track but it was so slippery that it was easier walking to the sides. Still pace picked up.

Looking back from Sail loch to Sail hill

I could now see the Iorsa Water and its hard packed track which would lead me to Dougarie. The bracken here was the highest I have seen this year, will soon be obscuring the track. Another ford to cross, no stepping stones, this could be interesting with higher water levels. 

Looking back along Iorsa Water

Just the river section left which was scenic, maybe just my relief at being off the hill.

The land owner has put in a separate track in for walkers to keep them away from his house but it is still a decent track.

At 4.40 I reached the water and 10 minutes later my transport arrived. So good that I even made the relief catamaran rather than the last boat. On the ferry I got a text from the guide, around 6.40 pm, saying that was them at the parking area. Getting to the last ferry would have been extremely tight so I made the right call.

As a ramble I thoroughly recommend it if you want to see Arran from a different perspective and want the feeling of real isolation. Naismith rule suggested 4 hours 30 and 6 hours would be more than ample. I have finally learned my lesson re group walking with strangers lol.

Ascent: 552m

Distance: 15.5km

Time: 6.45

Wildlife: Stonechat; Cuckoo; Sand piper; Golden plover; Sand Martin; Meadow Pipit; Skylark; Raven,

A wilderness wander on Arran....Three glen walk Lochranza to Catacol

Walk: Three Glens….Lochranza - Catacol
Category: Long Distance Walk.
Today was another unbelievable February day, so mild that it felt like late spring so not an opportunity to be missed. A visit to Arran was the plan.
I have had this little cracker on my list for a while so this trip was overdue.
In this day and age it is quite something that a stunning walk like this can be so remote, so isolated, a wilderness yet so near civilisation and I was so glad.
It was a solo trip so apart from the many red deer that I encountered it was magical peaceful therapy, no humans met on the walk.
I had this three glen walk as a possible option for some of the groups I walk with, no solitude then.

Start

I began my walk from the Lochranza distillery and walked into Gleann Easan Biorach. Immediately you have moved from a busy road and small village into a smashing remote situation, hemmed in on the left by the flanks of Tor Nead an Eoin, the burn cascading noisily and a tight track, what not to like.

There are at least half a dozen small waterfalls to enjoy either from the main burn or as the incomers meet.

Looking back Tom Nead an Eoin on right

There is a track of sorts all the way up to Loch na Davie, 3 miles away. When I say track it was an even mixture of good track, ankle deep bogs and the rest boulder fields. Big squelches as the boots were pulled out of the sucking mud. So rough walking to say the least. 

There was a misty sun haze ahead so the better views were looking back. 
The track rises gradually and about half way up I spotted 5 hinds across the burn who walked at the same pace as me all the way up to the loch. They were aware of me but not spooked, quite delightful company.

The water of life for Arran whisky

Loch na Davie was reached, this small water is the source used for Arran malt whisky down below in Lochranza, reminder I need to buy a bottle.
The terrain had slowed my normal pace for a walk like this, I was averaging just 2 miles an hour, meeting the island bus pick up for the ferry could be tight.

Iorsa Water

The trail goes round the sub2k of Beinn Bhreac at its southerly tip the meandering Iorsa water could be seen glistening as it flowed down to the sea. 

The bigger hills like Cir Mhor & Tarsuinn are shadows in the mist, just can be seen and no more, atmospheric.

Descent Meall nan Damh on left

The walk now descends into Gleann Diomhan, the terrain is not much better.
Great views of the hills ahead, the highest being Meall nan Damh, looks pretty steep from this side. 

The boys

I stop to take a drink and spot another herd of deer so close. I was so concentrated on looking down I had not seen them, again they were wary but not scared.

Gate to nature reserve, where is that tree?

Some of the glen is a nature reserve and I discovered later it is home to one of the UK‘s rarest tree, the Scottish or Arran white beam, there you go I will need to pay closer attention next time.
Where this now joins the third glen, Gleann Catacol, I am scanning the tops to my right, Creag na h-Iolaire but despite its name no Golden eagles are seen today.

Fox Moth caterpillar

Now on relatively flat terrain with the end in sight I am astonished to see a butterfly  flutter across and land on the dry grass. I had to go and inspect. Off it flew, too quickly but it looked dark brown and marked? I also found this caterpillar, from research it appears to be a Fox Moth but that was not the butterfly I spotted.

Glen Catacol

The walk out, almost to the road remains a stunning landscape. As stated nobody else on this trail today. In fact you would probably be unlucky to meet someone. So an excellent, if rough, remote landscape to indulge in your own thoughts uninterrupted, very satisfying this one.
And I walked the whole way without a jacket, it is still February? 
Made the bus by 10 minutes so ferry as planned.

Wildlife: Red Deer, Raven, Jackdaw, Meadow Pipit, Curlew, Oystercatcher, Butterfly?
Time: 3.45
Ascent: 443m
Distance: 11.8km