Friday 25 November 2022

Cracking views for not a lot of effort.....Rhue lighthouse & Meall Mor

 Walk: Rhue Lighthouse and Meall Mor

After yesterday's efforts in the wind and rain I woke up this morning all aches and pains. Looking out the window it was grey, drizzly and very low cloud so nothing high today.

Close by was the Rhue lighthouse walk with options, not one I had done before so that will do.

Some days a walk that had minimal expectations ends up being superb and this was one. The views for only slight effort were simply stunning, who needs the big mountains?

A bench with a cracking view
A short walk from the small parking area to a seat to relax and enjoy the views. Through the binos I spotted a couple of porpoises. Spoke to a couple with big scopes who had seen a few dolphins but far out at sea.

Storm clouds over Ben Mor Coigach

Fab rock formations

Beinn Ghobhlach top under cloud
The narrow track goes through the bracken, thankfully dying away and soon the lighthouse. It is a pretty but small lighthouse in a spectacular situation. Spoke to a fisherman who was hoping to catch a Pollock off the rocks. Must bring my spinning rod next time.

Light constantly changing but cloud staying low

Looking north, Ardmair on left
I wandered along the coastline and found a faint track heading round the bay. At times it was very narrow and very exposed. A bit muddy so care required, leaning inland to avoid a big drop into the sea. It is possible it is a local track going round to Ardmair.

Instead, I sat on rocks just admiring the view. For a brief spell it was summer like heat, jacket off. The light was constantly changing and I was simply enjoying it.


I spotted the Shearwater going close to the sea eagle nest. I imagine any chicks will be away by now. But through the binos a big shape took off from the nearby cliffs, gained height and flew down the peninsula separating Little & Loch Broom. Presumably one of the adult birds still hanging around the cliffs, might be its winter roost.

3 anchor hoops, interesting as lighthouse accessible by land, maybe heavy stuff comes by sea
Wandered back to the lighthouse and studied the amazing rock formations surrounding it. Wish I knew more about the geology.

Meall Mor from lighthouse
I ambled back along the road where a big lorry was being loaded with sheep from one of the crofts, just moving or off to slaughter I wondered.

The fence had a clear opening onto a steep grassy track which headed up through the nonchalant sheep to the first level. Then the track turns into a muddy, rocky track, it must be a good ATV to get up this.


Finally reached the mast but the small cairn at the top of Meall Mor was only a few more paces ahead. Meall Mor it is called, only 165m high but in view terms it feels like much, much higher.

Ardmair Bay
I was not anticipating a wow moment, but this was WOW in capitals. Nothing beats a top with a vertical descent into the sea and this was one, don't go too close to the edge. However just look around. On my right was Ardmair Bay overlooked by the huge bulk of Ben Mor Coigach, still immense despite its ridge being under cloud.

Summer Isles directly ahead
Looking straight up The Minch the Summer Isles sat on the blue sea and on the far horizon were the peaks of the hills of Lewis. Truly spectacular. The views west of the coastline and Beinn Ghobhlach also under cloud.

 Loch Broom
Finally, over Loch Broom and Ulapool onwards to the Fannichs, Dearg group etc. Grey today but on another day the 360-degree views would be spectacular. A crisp winters day, ideal.

I don't usually spend too long on a top but today was an exception. The constantly changing light was amazing. Lobster fisherman moving the boat between pink buoys. The boat was rolling big style when out of the sheltered waters. Small private rib could be seen sailing in and out of isolated coves. A great viewpoint even the obligatory Ravens appeared.

Back down and commotion in the trees, the answer evident as a Sparrowhawk appeared, circled above the trees, obviously disappointed at missing out.

Overall, a most unexpectedly splendid short ramble.

Ascent: 196m

Distance:

Time: 2.38

Wildlife: Sea Eagle; Sparrowhawk; Raven; Wood Pigeon; Robin; Porpoise; House Sparrow.


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