Day 1
Hill: Ben Tianavaig
Type: Sub2k
Height: 413m
I could see the hill from the Cuillin Hills hotel whilst having an excellent breakfast. I thought my feast was large but seeing the amount Americans were putting away, wow. Maybe they are not intending to eat anything for the rest of the day but these were huge.
The skies were blue but the palm trees in the hotel grounds were swaying about big style. The mountain forecast was not encouraging re the wind strength but this was the morning I had allocated so off I went.
Parked at the scenic carpark at Tianavaig Bay where the waves were pounding in but the wind not too bad.
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| This was the safe bit before the turn with the drops |
The track climbs quickly before bending its way round the point where there are already some very steep drops so I was leaning inland as I climbed.
Reached a break area where the smell of burnt heather was very strong. Another short ascent from where I could see the crags high above.
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| The start of the burnt bit |
However it was the extent of the burnt ground that caught my attention, wow most of the slopes had been burnt. There are no grouse here so it was not muirburn but a seriously out of control moorland fire.
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| Well away from the cliff edge |
This burning was actually helpful to me. The route can follow a couple of cliff tracks both very exposed and with this wind no way. So I headed on an angled curve well away from the edge. Under normal circumstances this would have been very rough walking but today it was walking over charred ground. Easier walking but the heather roots were not doing my boots any favours.
I was feeling good but the higher I was going the worse the wind. Not just the constant blowing but the bigger gusts, no lies I was getting concerned.
I had to change course away from the shelter to head back to the track at the first crags. I was able to creep around them but as I headed to the next crags at McQueens Rock it was not funny. I was very close to the edge, precipitous drops and as I got to these crags a gust almost turned me fully around. The wind was blowing towards the edge so I knew if I was blown over I would be rolled over the cliffs.
I reckoned I was only 15 minutes from the summit but as it was going to be the most exposed section I decided the best thing I could do was to turn back.
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| The point of abandonment |
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| At least good views of the Cuillins |
So disappointed I headed down, occasionally looking back and difficult to believe that the clear blue skies also had that wind hazard. The edging round the bottom cliff section had me fully concentrated.
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| On safe terrain the bay ahead |
Took my boots off with a solitary grey seals head bobbing in the bay keeping a close eye on me.
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| View of the fire from Portree |
Back at the hotel they confirmed the fire had only been last weekend and had been a major out of control incident with some of households having to evacuate until the fire was dampened down, luckily nobody hurt.
Ascent: 325m
Distance: 5.7m
Time: 1.45
Wildlife: Hooded Crow, Chaffinch, House Sparrow, Blue Tit, Blackbird,
Day 2
Hill: Ben Tianavaig
Type: Sub2k
Over breakfast the good lady knew my frustration from yesterday and agreed to give me another morning to walk so off I went.
A car was already parked up I wondered if they were on the hill.
Same start but this time I was able to enjoy the views as I rounded the hill before coming to the cliff tracks.
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| Calm water |
On such a nice day I chose the outer path which had glorious views down to the Sound of Raasay. A single seal looked up at me, yesterdays seal?
The water was flat calm and I noticed some disturbed patches. Zoomed the camera in and it was a pod of dolphins a magnificent sight. I reckoned there were at least five different pods spread over the sea.
I caught up with a couple having a break, the other cars occupants, who had also enjoyed the dolphins.
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| Tors and North Raasay |
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| Trotternish ridge and the Old Man |
After a brief chat I left them and headed up taking in this magnificent landscape over to The Storr and the Island of Raasay.
The gradient is constant but with no difficulty, what a difference a day makes.
I got past the final crags and had a great view of the pyramid slopes to the summit of Ben Tianavaig.
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| Portree far left |
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| Somewhere at the bottom of those cliffs the good lady and an otter |
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| Dun Can summit caught by the cloud |
The angle of the slopes hid the true vista which becomes apparent when the cylinder style trig is reached. Walkhighlands describes the hill as ‘Ben Tianavaig is a hill of real character - like a section of the Trotternish Ridge in miniature. The ascent along the ridge is a delight whilst the position and views are simply superb’. I could not put it better.
I called the good lady to tell her about the dolphins and to see if she could spot me. She was not interested as she had just spotted an otter dragging a fish into rocks, her favourite animal so delighted it was a good morning for us both. The couple arrived where we chatted and took in the views.
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| Raven was annoyed with me |
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| Cliff path heading for the point, not yesterday I was far away |
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| Word has got out about the dolphins |
returned the same way with a smile on my face, it might only be a small hill but after yesterdays travails this a joy to complete.
At the bay there were 3 seals and 14 cormorants all feeding. Whatever fish the tide had brought in the wildlife were feasting.
Definitely a hill that I will never forget. Now time for coffee and cake with the good lady to celebrate our mornings
Height: 413m
Ascent: 411m
Distance: 6.1km
Time: 2.16
Wildlife: Raven, Dolphin, Hooded Crow; Skylark, Blackbird,
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