Walk: Sandaig Bay
When planning our trip itinerary I wanted to explore an area that we had never visited before so there was an ideal opportunity was to visit Sandaig Bay.
The drive from Sheil bridge to Glenelg has many opportunities to stop and take in some magnificent views.
There is also lots of very narrow single track road with blind spots, beware in the tourist season.
Our arrival at the shore front village of Glenelg had the real wow factor. What a beautiful vista. We stopped at the amazingly sculptured War Memorial which is as fine a carving for any memorial I have ever seen. Throw in its outstanding location and it is quite a spot. As we stood there were no sounds whatsoever, quite breathtaking and emotional reading the script.
After that we drove on even narrower single track to the start of the walk. Luckily I had the start location in my Sat Nav as there was no sign which surprised me as this walk has history.
The good lady’s favourite animal is an otter and this is the location where Gavin Maxwell carried out his controversial Otter studies as described in his book ‘Ring of Bright Water’.
My map and route description described a winding woodland descent down to the shore. It was still winding but the area has been heavily deforested and replanted which in some aspects helped as it opened out the views.
Just after the start we spooked a pair of buzzards and a grey heron at Loch Drabhaig. Then better still we spotted an eagle, lazily circling above us. I could see it was big but it was not until I got the binos on it that I could not confirm as a White Tailed, delighted. It showed well for about 5 minutes before gliding over towards Skye.
A bit later we stopped as there was the obvious sound of frogs in the ditches either side of the track, it is that time of the year, mating season. They were everywhere, in one pool it was a writhing mass of turbulent water, no idea how many but another splendid sight of the natural world.
Further on the islands of Sandaig were now visible below us. Luckily she had not caught on until I explained where we were and how at certain light the water between the islands was the ring of bright water. Now she was interested and her eyes rarely left the water.
At full zoom hence not sharp but Great Northern Diver (f) |
I spotted some movement but it was a diver not an otter, a fine enough spot but not what she wanted. Looking across the water you felt you could reach out and touch Skye.
We dropped onto the beach where we attempted to get across to the far side but a water channel was too much of a barrier.
Instead we had fun exploring the beach and the cottage area where Maxwell lived. On the spot where the original cottage was there is a memorial marker where his ashes were buried. He lived a turbulent life. It is said that he went awry with the fame and fortune from his book and died relatively young, some believe suicide.
The stones on the beach are fascinating, all shapes and colours with so many lined with the crushed layers of the evolution of earth. How I wished a geologist was with us to explain exactly what we were looking at, it would have been fascinating.
Carcass was in poor condition so just showed the teeth |
Sadly we found the corpse of a porpoise lying among the stones, a fine set of small sharp teeth.
We thought we would have it to ourselves but an American appeared also in search of Maxwell's historical place. He moved on quickly and it did not interrupt our explorations. Such a beautiful spot. It is a very long time since I read the book so another addition to my to do list.
The usual gulls and a few geese were annoyed by our presence but in the main it was perfect, unspoiled wilderness, the sound of silence dominated.
Returned via the same route, delighted to see a flash of white in the trees confirmed by its angry calling, a Great Spotted Woodpecker, not hammering but calling, was it a female?
A delightful walk only tainted by the good lady not seeing an otter but that spectacle was to come to pass for her in a few days time.
Ascent: 131m
Distance: 6.4km
Time: 2.11
Wildlife: Buzzard; Grey Heron: Common frog; White Tailed eagle; Great Spotted Woodpecker; Porpoise; Blue Tit; Great Tit; Canada Geese;
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