A misty Donald Tops Circuit down Ettrick way

Hill: White Shank (DT); Smidhope Heights (DT); West Knowe (DT); Capel Fell (D); Loch Fell (D)

Type: Donald: Donald Tops

Another day to push and test my walking fitness but when I opened the curtains expecting a nice view it was a full on shade of grey.

My plan was to pick off the two Donald Tops associated with Capel Fell.

An interesting single track drive with minimal visibility praying that I would not meet anything coming my way, luckily I didn't.

Start of walk

I knew the route up to Capel Fell so the weather was not an issue just hoping it would clear. Looking at the snaps it is amazing how a modern lens makes everything so much brighter and clearer, not quite how my eyes saw it.

Phawhope Bothy

An hours trek from the car via Phawhope Bothy, utilising the Southern Upland Way, got me to the base of Capel Fell.

Fence to Capel Fell thought it would clear but not for a while

The mist was lifting with flashes of blue sky but the top was not in sight from here. Having been up Capel Fell before I knew it was a straightforward 20-25 minute grassy slog. I was following an ATV track and a fence so no difficulty. It took the 25 minutes!!

Right turn still following the fence to Smidhope Hill

On the top of Capel I was still in the mist and much colder it was, jacket on. I followed the fence as it made a right turn heading for Smidhope. This was new territory and I had not realised how much I had descended from Capel Fell until out of the gloom a steep ascent loomed into view. As we know mist and fog exaggerates everything.

Top of Smidhope

Despite my initial misgivings it actually was not too bad and beside me the fence had changed to an impressive dry stone dyke. However on reaching the top of Smidhope there was no marker to designate the summit, not unusual for Donalds.

Top of White Shank

On return mist cleared enough to look back to Smidhope

Onward in the gloom again, once more the dyke beside me reassured that I was still on track until I reached a high point and the cloud briefly lifted, there was nothing higher ahead. So final point reached and confirmed.

View from Smidhope to Capel

In terms of distance I had walked back almost level with the bothy and it would have been straightforward to make a circular walk out of it. But I wanted the longer exercise and made my way back to Capel and back down the hill.

Snap flattens out the climb had to go left then follow fence West Knowe high point on right

This was now my dilemma. I was feeling good but legs were tiring and I knew I had one other Donald top nearby. It was a question of do I return another day or do I put in a bigger shift today? As I descended from Capel the mist lifted and I could see across to West Knowe. Decision was made. I knew I would have to ascend via the Donald of Loch Fell first which was a bit of a pain and more effort but that is the price to be paid for not bagging West Knowe first time around.

West Knowe ahead on way back I cut across once over the peat hags

Whilst descending from Capel I spotted an ATV track across the way which I was able to ascend to the fence line which then took me to Loch Fell. After that it was a case of another right turn and followed the fence to West Knowe. It was no hardship as the views were excellent despite the cold wind.

Croft Head from West Knowe

Green Lowther radar ball high point in the back centre of snap

From the summit I enjoyed the scenery even spotting the golf ball on Green Lowther on the horizon. A small flock of birds suddenly appeared on the ground and the fence. At first I thought Chaffinch but no way up here until I looked closer through the zoom of the camera and they were Common Redpoll, never seen a group so high up before. I had read that there were good numbers being spotted in Scotland this winter so delighted with that.

En route I decided I would return cross country through the gorge. A bit of a descent and reascent but worth it as saved time and distance.

Into the forest for the tramp back to the car

Back to the SUW and then an hours trek back to the car. Not another person met or even spotted in the distance and on the moors next to no birdlife.

Ascent: 801m

Distance: 18.6km

Time: 5.08

Wildlife: Chaffinch; Blue Tit; Coal Tit; Meadow Pipit; Buzzard; Curlew (heard); Common Redpoll;

Graham bagging in the rolling Border Hills

Hills: Capel Fell (Horse Hill?) (678m) & Croft Head ( Hill above croft) (637m)

Type: Both are a Graham & Donald

With the new found freedom allowed for small ad hoc groups a break out group from Ayr OIR headed to Moffat to visit the Ettrick Hills. Having a motorway drive almost felt like a new experience. These hills offer a mixture of ridges and valleys as well as a lot of forestry. They are also fairly isolated and we did not see another walker all day.

We started from the the traditional spot near the fish farm, a small parking area so be warned. Crossing the Moffat water we will be heading to the parallel Ettrick water which flows in the opposite direction, a watershed indeed. 

A dry Succoth burn

We opted to not follow the Succoth burn but to cross it and go up the flanks of Croft Head and head directly to the surface.

Deer fence 1

There was a good track lower down before we met the first deer fence. Thankfully decent gates were integrated into the fences so no climbing but still drew blood. The land has been recently planted with the small pine tree saplings poking out, but despite the forestry scars the going was good. It would have been an ideal pleasant grassy slopes in bygone days.

Finally get full view of Croft Head

A few hillocks giving false summits before the final opening with a good view of the steeper final assault on Croft Head. Excellent views into the deep Cleugh as well as the ravaged flanks of Capel Fell where landslips had caused major damage.

Looking over Broken Back, Sailfoot Law, at back Saddle Yoke ridge

A few huffs and puffs and stops for the views before we reached the summit, a merging of fences, not very inspiring voiced Gordon, agreement from the rest. But the views made up for any disappointment, superb rolling hills and all 5 Donalds of this route in sight.

Descending Cat Shoulder impressive Scar

Closer view

The Southern Upland Way makes a high level detour up here and we used it to descend to the original trail. 

Looking back from cairn to zig zag descent

A very steep but a well made zigzag path makes light work of the steep gradient. 

Craigmichen Scar ahead and behind the flank of Capel

Once down we took the easiest route following the SUW as it climbs and descends, a narrow track hemmed between the hills a delightful walk to reach the coll.

Well constructed bridge better than Shalloch version

Before making the final ascent of Capel it was time for a relaxing lunch enjoying the views to the 3 Donalds across the way particularly Wind Fell.. 

Some more huffing and puffing following the fence line (the boundary marker Selkirk-Dumfries) and an ATV track, then the second hill was bagged. 

View from Capel summit to Swatte Fell & Saddle Yoke

Again no cairn or trig just an eroded post to mark the summit but the plus factor was even better views. We are spoiled today. 

Looking over to our ascent of Croft from Capel

The ridges and hills of Ettrick are fully laid out. On a day like this wonderful viewing.

Final descent

A good descent and we reached the Sailfoot forest where deforestation was in full flow but thankfully no workings today. We decided to follow a swinging S shaped track before deciding to go in a straight line through the deforestation. 

Trouble ahead

Not a mistake but not straightforward either over the debris, hidden holes etc. A few sweary words muttered. Still, we all survived and the cars were just ahead, walk over.

A perfect day for walking but I underestimated the weather, no sun cream and a skelped face tonight. Hopefully the Herman Law ridge next.

Ascent: 820m

Distance: 11.1km

Time: 4.51

Wildlife: Hare; Jay; Meadow Pipit; Pheasant; Raven; Skylark; Buzzard; Peacock butterfly