Last snow walk of the year.....Beinn Fhionnlaidh

Hill: Beinn Fhionnlaidh (Finlay’s Hill)

Type: Munro

Height: 959m

Still trying to improve my hill fitness so a longer walk for a single Munro was perfect. Finlay's hill. I challenge you to pronounce this as named above then go onto Walkhighlands and listen to how it is spoken, your having a laugh I thought.

When I looked at the forecast yesterday today was looking promising but I woke up to the rain thumping down, got soaked just walking to the car, not what I expected. Also there had been recent heavy snow including last night so what was the hill going to be like?

At the car big decisions, crampons, ice axe, spikes or the lot? Finlay could not be seen from here but just across the way was Beinn Sgulaird, just slightly lower. The snow looked like being from circa 700m. Any new snow should bet wet and soft so only the spikes taken, the bag was heavy enough.

Hill track starts at hump on right

Started the walk from the Glen Crerar car park and followed the Walkhighlands route description. At the start there are enough signs to get you on the hill, the estate obviously don't want walkers wandering about where they do not want them.

Nope the point in distance is not the top

The final ridge

For all the signs it could be easy to miss the cut off onto the hill proper. From here it is a constant climb on a good gradient but on a very rough boggy path. It is a ridge walk without really feeling like one. The lochans were bubbling with mating frogs.

Frog pond and top coming into view

For about 2 hours of the climb the weather was distinctly varied. Dry at the start, light rain, heavy rain. Very loud thunder claps followed by about half an hour of hail and in cloud for the almost all the final 300m.

Another couple on way to the top

The snow level was reached and as predicted it was mostly slush between the rocky landscape but there were also significant sections of knee deep snow. A few sledging style descents later on.

Ben Nevis big lump in distance

A round trig could be spotted sooner than expected and thankfully this was the summit. The weather was now much clearer and the views were magnificent. All the Etive hills, the Glencoe giants, further on the bulk of Ben Nevis and many more, spectacular and worth the long walk in. I would go a long way for views of mountain ridges topped with snow.

Evening light over sea to Mull

The views on the descent were equally superb, nearby Sgulaird and its surrounding hills prominent. Longer distance over the sea to Mull and much more.

The downside was the wet boggy track was a nightmare, full on concentration required to avoid slipping, rather tiring and became a long slog.

Overall it was a worthy outing, excellent views and fitness boosted.

Ascent: 1012m

Distance: 15.7km

Time: 7.56

Wildlife: Red Deer; Skylark; Meadow Pipit; Common Frog.

A two day romp to do a Sub2k, really!!.....Ben Tianavaig

Day 1

Hill: Ben Tianavaig

Type: Sub2k

Height: 413m

I could see the hill from the Cuillin Hills hotel whilst having an excellent breakfast. I thought my feast was large but seeing the amount Americans were putting away, wow. Maybe they are not intending to eat anything for the rest of the day but these were huge.

The skies were blue but the palm trees in the hotel grounds were swaying about big style. The mountain forecast was not encouraging re the wind strength but this was the morning I had allocated so off I went.

Parked at the scenic carpark at Tianavaig Bay where the waves were pounding in but the wind not too bad.

This was the safe bit before the turn with the drops

The track climbs quickly before bending its way round the point where there are already some very steep drops so I was leaning inland as I climbed.

Reached a break area where the smell of burnt heather was very strong. Another short ascent from where I could see the crags high above.

The start of the burnt bit

However it was the extent of the burnt ground that caught my attention, wow most of the slopes had been burnt. There are no grouse here so it was not muirburn but a seriously out of control moorland fire.

Well away from the cliff edge

This burning was actually helpful to me. The route can follow a couple of cliff tracks both very exposed and with this wind no way. So I headed on an angled curve well away from the edge. Under normal circumstances this would have been very rough walking but today it was walking over charred ground. Easier walking but the heather roots were not doing my boots any favours.

I was feeling good but the higher I was going the worse the wind. Not just the constant blowing but the bigger gusts, no lies I was getting concerned.

I had to change course away from the shelter to head back to the track at the first crags. I was able to creep around them but as I headed to the next crags at McQueens Rock it was not funny. I was very close to the edge, precipitous drops and as I got to these crags a gust almost turned me fully around. The wind was blowing towards the edge so I knew if I was blown over I would be rolled over the cliffs.

I reckoned I was only 15 minutes from the summit but as it was going to be the most exposed section I decided the best thing I could do was to turn back.

The point of abandonment

At least good views of the Cuillins

So disappointed I headed down, occasionally looking back and difficult to believe that the clear blue skies also had that wind hazard. The edging round the bottom cliff section had me fully concentrated.

On safe terrain the bay ahead

Took my boots off with a solitary grey seals head bobbing in the bay keeping a close eye on me.

View of the fire from Portree

Back at the hotel they confirmed the fire had only been last weekend and had been a major out of control incident with some of households having to evacuate until the fire was dampened down, luckily nobody hurt.

Ascent: 325m

Distance: 5.7m

Time: 1.45

Wildlife: Hooded Crow, Chaffinch, House Sparrow, Blue Tit, Blackbird,

Day 2

Hill: Ben Tianavaig

Type: Sub2k

Over breakfast the good lady knew my frustration from yesterday and agreed to give me another morning to walk so off I went.

A car was already parked up I wondered if they were on the hill.

Same start but this time I was able to enjoy the views as I rounded the hill before coming to the cliff tracks.

Calm water

On such a nice day I chose the outer path which had glorious views down to the Sound of Raasay. A single seal looked up at me, yesterdays seal?

The water was flat calm and I noticed some disturbed patches. Zoomed the camera in and it was a pod of dolphins a magnificent sight. I reckoned there were at least five different pods spread over the sea.

I caught up with a couple having a break, the other cars occupants, who had also enjoyed the dolphins.

Tors and North Raasay

Trotternish ridge and the Old Man

After a brief chat I left them and headed up taking in this magnificent landscape over to The Storr and the Island of Raasay.

The gradient is constant but with no difficulty, what a difference a day makes.

I got past the final crags and had a great view of the pyramid slopes to the summit of Ben Tianavaig.

Portree far left

Somewhere at the bottom of those cliffs the good lady and an otter

Dun Can summit caught by the cloud

The angle of the slopes hid the true vista which becomes apparent when the cylinder style trig is reached. Walkhighlands describes the hill as ‘Ben Tianavaig is a hill of real character - like a section of the Trotternish Ridge in miniature. The ascent along the ridge is a delight whilst the position and views are simply superb’. I could not put it better.

I called the good lady to tell her about the dolphins and to see if she could spot me. She was not interested as she had just spotted an otter dragging a fish into rocks, her favourite animal so delighted it was a good morning for us both. The couple arrived where we chatted and took in the views.

Raven was annoyed with me

Cliff path heading for the point, not yesterday I was far away

Word has got out about the dolphins

returned the same way with a smile on my face, it might only be a small hill but after yesterdays travails this a joy to complete.

At the bay there were 3 seals and 14 cormorants all feeding. Whatever fish the tide had brought in the wildlife were feasting.

Definitely a hill that I will never forget. Now time for coffee and cake with the good lady to celebrate our mornings

Height: 413m

Ascent: 411m

Distance: 6.1km

Time: 2.16

Wildlife: Raven, Dolphin, Hooded Crow; Skylark, Blackbird,

In search of Otters.....Sandaig Bay

Walk: Sandaig Bay

When planning our trip itinerary I wanted to explore an area that we had never visited before so there was an ideal opportunity was to visit Sandaig Bay.

The drive from Sheil bridge to Glenelg has many opportunities to stop and take in some magnificent views. 

There is also lots of very narrow single track road with blind spots, beware in the tourist season. 

Our arrival at the shore front village of Glenelg had the real wow factor. What a beautiful vista. We stopped at the amazingly sculptured War Memorial which is as fine a carving for any memorial I have ever seen. Throw in its outstanding location and it is quite a spot. As we stood there were no sounds whatsoever, quite breathtaking and emotional reading the script.

After that we drove on even narrower single track to the start of the walk. Luckily I had the start location in my Sat Nav as there was no sign which surprised me as this walk has history.

The good lady’s favourite animal is an otter and this is the location where Gavin Maxwell carried out his controversial Otter studies as described in his book ‘Ring of Bright Water’.

My map and route description described a winding woodland descent down to the shore. It was still winding but the area has been heavily deforested and replanted which in some aspects helped as it opened out the views.

Just after the start we spooked a pair of buzzards and a grey heron at Loch Drabhaig. Then better still we spotted an eagle, lazily circling above us. I could see it was big but it was not until I got the binos on it that I could not confirm as a White Tailed, delighted. It showed well for about 5 minutes before gliding over towards Skye.

A bit later we stopped as there was the obvious sound of frogs in the ditches either side of the track, it is that time of the year, mating season. They were everywhere, in one pool it was a writhing mass of turbulent water, no idea how many but another splendid sight of the natural world.

Further on the islands of Sandaig were now visible below us. Luckily she had not caught on until I explained where we were and how at certain light the water between the islands was the ring of bright water. Now she was interested and her eyes rarely left the water.

At full zoom hence not sharp but Great Northern Diver (f)

I spotted some movement but it was a diver not an otter, a fine enough spot but not what she wanted. Looking across the water you felt you could reach out and touch Skye.

We dropped onto the beach where we attempted to get across to the far side but a water channel was too much of a barrier.

Instead we had fun exploring the beach and the cottage area where Maxwell lived. On the spot where the original cottage was there is a memorial marker where his ashes were buried. He lived a turbulent life. It is said that he went awry with the fame and fortune from his book and died relatively young, some believe suicide.

The stones on the beach are fascinating, all shapes and colours with so many lined with the crushed layers of the evolution of earth. How I wished a geologist was with us to explain exactly what we were looking at, it would have been fascinating. 

Carcass was in poor condition so just showed the teeth

Sadly we found the corpse of a porpoise lying among the stones, a fine set of small sharp teeth.

We thought we would have it to ourselves but an American appeared also in search of Maxwell's historical place. He moved on quickly and it did not interrupt our explorations. Such a beautiful spot. It is a very long time since I read the book so another addition to my to do list.

The usual gulls and a few geese were annoyed by our presence but in the main it was perfect, unspoiled wilderness, the sound of silence dominated.

Returned via the same route, delighted to see a flash of white in the trees confirmed by its angry calling, a Great Spotted Woodpecker, not hammering but calling, was it a female?

A delightful walk only tainted by the good lady not seeing an otter but that spectacle was to come to pass for her in a few days time.

Ascent: 131m

Distance: 6.4km

Time: 2.11

Wildlife: Buzzard; Grey Heron: Common frog; White Tailed eagle; Great Spotted Woodpecker; Porpoise; Blue Tit; Great Tit; Canada Geese;